99nbmbird650

iTrader: (3)

I have a 99 trans am mods in sig just now it has a ls6 cam only difference. I have always had pretty loud valvetrain I was wondering whats a good oil to run with my setup and to maybe quit the valvetrain a bit. Thanks

fleetmgr

Stick with the mfr's recommendation on viscosity and you'll not go wrong. Keep it clean and your engine will thank you.
Don't expect super performance from anything you can buy off the shelf.
Most important, DON'T use additives.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

You will not get a concensus on which oil is the way to go.

I always use 5W30 weight. I was using synthetic for a while, and changed to non-synthetic because I was in a hurry and that's all I had at the time. The slight ticking I a had from the driver's side lifters is now gone.

I don't know what logical sense this makes, just thought I would let you know.

I also have a Z06 cam and otherwise stock.

99nbmbird650

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the response sounds good. I need it tuned because I just put the cam in from a ms3. How do you like the cam?

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

I wanted a mild cam, but this one's weak. Even for an old guy like me.

If I was going to do it all over again, I would go with something like 220/224, .550/.560, 114.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Here we go again:

If you do a search you can sit for hours and hours reading "which oil to use" threads.

You will then come to the only possible conclusion that there is:

IT MAKES NO DIFFERENCE AT ALL WHAT YOU USE.

As said above......the ONLY guaranteed procedure you can do concerning oil is to KEEP IT CLEAN. Change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles....and you will get the same identical...IDENTICAL...engine protection by using the most expensive off-the-shelf "synthetic oil" or the cheapest regular "non-synthetic" oil.

The PROOF:
People have been using every different brand and weight of oil all across this country and everyones engines are running the same and getting about the same basic longevity out of them. It just makes no difference.

Use what the manual says and don't spend money on all these special super duper oils

I know I'm just one example...but have a built 427ci that is inching up on 130,000 miles, and its running PERFECT, never had a repair yet, doesn't make a sound and is smooth as glass. I have been using the cheapest regular Castrol GTX 20w50. 3,000 mile changes. Proof is in the pudding for me anyway.

Disclaimer: Which oil to use gets important when you have a specifically built engine with totally different tolerances then a stock engine or even a normal highly built engine like mine. Purpose built race engines need specific oils. And those specific oils that they use might kill our normal every day engines.



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hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

id recommend German Castrol. because its a 0W-30, it flows better when the engine is cold, which is when the notorious piston slap issue occurs. but try a few, see which ones work and what dont

99nbmbird650

iTrader: (3)

German castrol sounds like a good pick, what's the notorious piston slap? Thanks for all replies

99nbmbird650

iTrader: (3)

German castrol sounds like a good pick, what's the notorious piston slap? Thanks for all replies

91RS383

Piston slap is very common on the LS1. It's when the skirts of the pistons rattle around a bit. On our alluminum blocks it sounds like marbles rolling around inside the oil pan.

Mine has done it since day one when the oil is cold.