PONTIACL0V3R

I have a 2000 T/A that runs great. It only has about 25k miles on it and i only drive it when the weather is nice, otherwise it lives in the garage. I took it out last night and it started up just fine at first. When I got to my destination and shut it off, then tried to start it back up all it would do is crank. After shuting the key off a few times then turning it back on it finally fired up. Then the next time i shut it off it wouldnt start at all, all it would do was crank. A guy that knows a lot about LS1s came up and noticed that the check gauges light was on, he pulled of the fuse panel, pulled my guages fuse, put it back in, and it fired right up. Did this several times and it works everytime, does anybody know why?

djfury05

iTrader: (30)

is there gas in it? is the fuel pump priming? are the rails getting pressure etc?

PONTIACL0V3R

Yes, checked every single one of those things for the hour I was waiting on that guy to come take a look at it.

PONTIACL0V3R

Still Having this problem only now its worse, pulling the gauges fuse no longer works and she shut off on me at about 3/4 throttle doing about 90 on the highway the other day (in mexico of course). When I coasted to a stop I got out and pulled the main ignition fuse under the hood and let it reset then it started, but the next time I tried that it didnt work. Dealership doesnt seem to have a clue and charged me $500 for a BCM that I obviously didnt need. Anybody have any ideas?!?

PONTIACL0V3R

Still having the issue, its back at the shop now. No ideas?

Kevin01Z28

iTrader: (8)

So you are 100% sure you are getting fuel. Have you checked for spark?

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

I went through this and found it to be my ign. relay, but mine never shut off while going down the road. You can swap relays with the A/C and see if it changes anything.

Kevin01Z28

iTrader: (8)

Damn I didn't read that at first. Hopefully its not the same shop that charged you for a BCM. A faulty BCM would cause no fuel which you said you have.

myk

iTrader: (4)

I can't recall if we've talked about this in another thread-there seems to be alot of no-start/crank-only stories lately, so forgive me if I'm repeating here.

How did you verify that the fuel system is getting the proper amount of fuel or fuel pressure?

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

holy hell, get back to the dealer and tell them the BCM didn't fix the problem. It's called a re-check and they need to figure out the problem or give you back your money....I would be pissed.

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

Did you take it to WK or Lotspeich?

PONTIACL0V3R

I took it to lotspeich, im about done with them.

Yeah they havent charged me the last 2 times ive taken it up there, they better not either.

Yep same shop, and they didnt reprogram the bcm right either, when i got home my remote didnt work and i had to take it back to them.

No, i think that is my problem, but its kinda hard to check b/c it usually leaves me stranded somewhere with no tools.

I didnt put a gauge on it or anything but i can hear the pump priming and i took the cap off the fuel rail and pushed in the nipple and it seemed to have really good pressure. I will go get a fuel gauge from auto zone and check it right.

Thats what the dealership thought it was the second time I took it to them, they replaced it and it fixed it for a while but then got worse than ever.

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

WK in Sedalia is the only local GM dealership that i will deal with.

Did they check the cam/crank sensor?

PONTIACL0V3R

They said they checked them but u never know. If they dont fix it this time around I'm gonna ask them for my money back and take it to WK

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

car stopping while rolling on the highway is usually the cam and or crank sensor, sometimes both.
There really isn't a way to check it unless its stopped working completely as far as I know.
Your problem seems to be sensors.

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

As I stated earlier, this is what I would be looking at.

PONTIACL0V3R

ok, thanks guys! Ill call the dealership tomorrow and tell them to just replace both of them.

bad_408_vert

iTrader: (6)

Can anyone give a good reason of why these sensors go out?

I just thought my car did this in the cold weather because the previous owner didn't take care of the car at all and the high mileage.

But OP's car only has 25k miles on it. Are these sensors a wear & tear item?

Kevin01Z28

iTrader: (8)

Nope some people just have worst luck. I just had to replace both of them on my brother's 06 nissan altima. Car was bucking and **** going down the road, then just died. I pulled the code and got crank/cam sensors; had to replace them both because they had the same part number and the computer would not distinguish between the two, per the nissan dealer of course. They were only $35 each, so what the hell.

Dealer also told me I would need the computer reflashed for $125 to turn off the ses light. I unhooked the battery, the light stayed off, car still runs fine. Dealerships.....

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

If you havent taken it to the dealership yet, I have both sensors in my toolbox. They came off my 18,000 mile longblock that I got AND I am just down the road from you.