I have a million questions
#1
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here we go:
1. Doing a million repairs. Majority of mods were by previous owner. Where is the PCV valve supposed to be? I have ARP 205 heads and there is a hose that goes from the driver side head around the passenger head and straight into the fast manifold. The entire inside of the manifold is full of oil.
2. Does anyone have part numbers or a location for stainless fast manifold hardware. I already have ARP manifold bolts (bolt the manifold to the heads) but what about ARP throttle body hardware, stainless hardware for connecting the upper and lower halves of the manifold and the throttle cable bracket?
3. How can I thoroughly clean the fast manifold inside and out? mine is pretty nasty on the runners and deep in the little pockets in these area's.
4. Im installing a fast fuel pressure gauge in one of the rails and it has pipe type thread...does this require teflon tape (I know AN fittings do not)
5. Ive got an AIR delete kit from speed. If I temporarily just remove the hoses and install the block off plates leaving the air pump connected will I have to have it tuned out to prevent a fault? (leaving the AIR pump connected and operational) Or do the rear O2's provide some data indicating that the AIR system is not working quick enough even though the pump is operating?
Thanks in advance for all the replies!!
1. Doing a million repairs. Majority of mods were by previous owner. Where is the PCV valve supposed to be? I have ARP 205 heads and there is a hose that goes from the driver side head around the passenger head and straight into the fast manifold. The entire inside of the manifold is full of oil.
2. Does anyone have part numbers or a location for stainless fast manifold hardware. I already have ARP manifold bolts (bolt the manifold to the heads) but what about ARP throttle body hardware, stainless hardware for connecting the upper and lower halves of the manifold and the throttle cable bracket?
3. How can I thoroughly clean the fast manifold inside and out? mine is pretty nasty on the runners and deep in the little pockets in these area's.
4. Im installing a fast fuel pressure gauge in one of the rails and it has pipe type thread...does this require teflon tape (I know AN fittings do not)
5. Ive got an AIR delete kit from speed. If I temporarily just remove the hoses and install the block off plates leaving the air pump connected will I have to have it tuned out to prevent a fault? (leaving the AIR pump connected and operational) Or do the rear O2's provide some data indicating that the AIR system is not working quick enough even though the pump is operating?
Thanks in advance for all the replies!!
#2
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remove the manifold, strip it all the way down, soak the inside with simple green or purple power, let it sit for five min., go to town with a toilet brush. rinse, rinse, rinse, dry, dry, dry, reassemble, reinstall.
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1. It should go from the back of the drivers side, around the back of the intake, and connect to the back of the passenger side of valve cover, and from front of passenger side valve cover into intake
2. http://speed-eng.com/store/fast-stai...ly-p-9431.html
3. take apart, either spray with simple green, let soak, and rinse, or
take apart, spray with intake /carb cleaner
4. yes
5. you can just remove all the AIR crap from your car and have no problems. the rear o2 sensor don't effect air/fuel ratios, they just tell you if your cats aren't working. The air pump is just extra weight, unless you have to pass a sniffer, then you might want it.
You shouldn't get any codes from removing it.
2. http://speed-eng.com/store/fast-stai...ly-p-9431.html
3. take apart, either spray with simple green, let soak, and rinse, or
take apart, spray with intake /carb cleaner
4. yes
5. you can just remove all the AIR crap from your car and have no problems. the rear o2 sensor don't effect air/fuel ratios, they just tell you if your cats aren't working. The air pump is just extra weight, unless you have to pass a sniffer, then you might want it.
You shouldn't get any codes from removing it.