Finally found that loose change noise...
09-08-2010, 01:10 PM
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Finally found that loose change noise... For almost a year, I've been searching for this "ting ting" sound or something that sounds like you dropped a handful of coins. It happens when the car hits bumps or goes over inclines too fast. All from the front end. I thought it was the clips that hold some cover under the motor, which I don't have, bouncing around so I put tape on them and the noise continued. I changed sway bar endlinks, shortened my endlinks, tightened bolts, and took everything out the car to see if the noise went away, no luck. I also put new Moog ball joints, Moog inner and outer tie rods, Moog upper and lower control arm bushings, Moog sway bar endlinks, and new steering rack (old one was leaking again). Still no luck.
I had to change out my steering rack again (replaced Jan 2010). I had a shop do it the first time but this time I decided to do it. The shop didn't flip the bolt so it would drop down instead of removing from the top, so I had to slide the bolt/pin out the driver's side motor mount and take out the alternator. I have the truck alternator and the back of it is much bigger than stock. I also unbolted the passenger motor mount because it still wouldn't go high enough. Anyway, I looked at the motor mounts and the rubber was split and would move around inside the clambshell. I bought new GM motor mounts and a 1LE transmission mount months ago and put them in.
The noise is finally gone! I bet the metal around the rubber was hitting the clambshell causing that noise. Oddly enough, I didn't have any symptoms of a bad motor mount or transmission mount but the car took a huge drivetrain shock at WOT. The car feels so much tighter now and it also lifted my true duals up some which gives me about 1/2" more of ground clearance. What would cause this to happen?
I had to change out my steering rack again (replaced Jan 2010). I had a shop do it the first time but this time I decided to do it. The shop didn't flip the bolt so it would drop down instead of removing from the top, so I had to slide the bolt/pin out the driver's side motor mount and take out the alternator. I have the truck alternator and the back of it is much bigger than stock. I also unbolted the passenger motor mount because it still wouldn't go high enough. Anyway, I looked at the motor mounts and the rubber was split and would move around inside the clambshell. I bought new GM motor mounts and a 1LE transmission mount months ago and put them in.
The noise is finally gone! I bet the metal around the rubber was hitting the clambshell causing that noise. Oddly enough, I didn't have any symptoms of a bad motor mount or transmission mount but the car took a huge drivetrain shock at WOT. The car feels so much tighter now and it also lifted my true duals up some which gives me about 1/2" more of ground clearance. What would cause this to happen?
09-08-2010, 06:12 PM
#2
Did you buy the car new? If not it looks like someone had a hellof a good time with this car to cause that much damage to the engine mounts. I bought a low mileage 99 ta that had basicly the same thing and i found out later it was raced at the drag strip a few times.
09-08-2010, 09:43 PM
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When I did my cam swap I put in solid mm and a poly trans mount. My friend drove my car over to his garage and mentioned that the cars trans mount was probably messed up. I never noticed any symptoms but it turned out to be ripped in half.
My car has roughly 50k miles and not beaten on too hard. My guess... GM used cheap **** in our cars and thats why it broke!
My car has roughly 50k miles and not beaten on too hard. My guess... GM used cheap **** in our cars and thats why it broke!
09-08-2010, 10:09 PM
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When I did my cam swap I put in solid mm and a poly trans mount. My friend drove my car over to his garage and mentioned that the cars trans mount was probably messed up. I never noticed any symptoms but it turned out to be ripped in half.
My car has roughly 50k miles and not beaten on too hard. My guess... GM used cheap **** in our cars and thats why it broke!
My car has roughly 50k miles and not beaten on too hard. My guess... GM used cheap **** in our cars and thats why it broke!
09-09-2010, 07:03 AM
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The dealer I used from my job is called Henna Chevrolet out of Austin, TX. They had the non 1le and the 1le. The 1le is just a hunk of solid rubber which seems to hold up better. My shifter feels weird now because it's smooth and goes into gear easily. I bought the car with 50k miles on it and now I'm just over 90k... I'm sure I did the damage. That trans mount I have in the picture will rip apart within a few WOT shifts. It all makes sense now. When I got my car back from SNL, I had a new trans and trans mount put in. After that break in period, a couple shifts would chirp the tires. Then, a week later it was back to making the drivetrain shock when shifted hard. I have a torque arm relo kit with a 12 bolt waiting to go in so hopefully that will take care of all this mess.
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09-10-2010, 03:36 PM
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The new 1le trans mount and new gm motor mounts stopped my monster clutch from squealing.Also made the engagement point right at the top of the pedal. Car feels alot different now.
09-15-2010, 10:33 PM
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I'm waiting to do some poly motor mounts though, I'm not looking forward to the install.
