HIZPANICGUY21

iTrader: (6)

The other day i went to pick up my little girl from school when all of a sudden my car just died...hmmmm, just all of a sudden. So i get someone to give me a jump...car wont start right away, but it finally starts after a few minutes..all went good for the next 2 days..then on my way to work the car dies again while i was driving...i try starting the car, it wont turn over..i try it again and the battery is completely dead..tow the car home, get alternator and battery tested. Battery is bad so i get a new one..damn car still doesnt start..help....it seems like it really wants to start but it doesnt...anyways,ses light comes on and i borrow a cheaP matco obd2 code reader mc100, code reader reads as follows

"0 codes
mil off
monitrs
5 inc
catlyst
sec air
o2 snsr
o2 htr
egr
3 ready
misfire
fuel
comp"

What the hell does all this mean? I was expecting a code but it didnt give me one...somebody please help

98pontiac

that means that there are no codes present. the computer wont always tell you an area to look, but I am assuming the alternator tested good? Half of the time when I put in a new battery, the tester will actually tell me to "charge and retest" even though it is a brand new battery. Alot of batteries lose their voltage from sitting on shelves. but it really sounds like the alternator isnt charging up the battery, or making you have a parasitic drain, Something may not be shutting off with the key, and drains the battery while its parked. You need a high amperage tester to do that.... it takes alot of time to test that.... Basically you check the amps at the battery, if it is over a few amps, (not sure the exact number) you have a drain on the battery. if there is a drain, you need to watch the amps, and pull fuses one by one, until the amperage drops... Then, that will tell you what circuit it is on, then you have the check the entire circuit. BUT, I dont want you to do all that crap if it is unneccesary. Id check easier possiblities first... like the alternator.

HIZPANICGUY21

iTrader: (6)

Alternator is pretty new..and it tested good..so i dont know. Distributor is about 2 years old.....i just dont know

myk

iTrader: (4)

If after replacing the battery the car still doesn't start, I suggest you look into what I hate most about these cars: the fuel pump. I had symptoms just like yours in my 97Z and 98 Mustang. Turn your key to the "on", not "run" position, and listen for a humming or other "machine" like sound from the rear of the car-that would mean your fuel pump is at least turning on.

If it does turn on, then buy/rent/borrow a fuel pressure gauge and take it from there. Also, keep in mind that fuel pump problems won't set off an OBD scanner...

98pontiac

Definatley good advice. signs of a weak fuel pump is the engine cranking over longer than usual. Not sure on the spec of fuel pressure, But I would certainly expect to see 35+.

chris88330

im having the exact same problem i tested my pressure it was at 53 when it should be between 41 and 47. ive changed distributor spark plugs ignition coil injectors and the car still wont start but if i spray carb cleaner in the intake it fires right up the fuel pump also has been replaced and no codes bein thrown its a 95 z28