shrike

iTrader: (1)

The engine I bought had three broken exhaust bolts. While drilling one of them, the drill went through the head.

It is the bolt on the left hand side exhaust manifold, the first bolt from the back of the engine (where the flywheel is).

The hole was centered but I went too far in.
Anyone knows what is behind that bolt? Is it the coolant passage? If so, do you think this might cause any problems? Or once the bolt is in, coolant cannot come out and everything is fine?


Thanks

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

That bolt would definitely need sealer or teflon tape wrapped around it before putting it in.

shrike

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I was thinking of putting some stuff, I was thinking more of some kind of sealant.

By the way the engine is a 4.8. I don't know if the design of the heads is different

Would blue loctite act as sealant?

dudeiwin86

iTrader: (1)

no.
Get thread sealant
or
loctite 518 gel

hers a nifty pdf i just googled about the loctite 518 gel,
1000 hours and it may degrade by 10% of its original strength if exposed to water/glycol 50/50 mixture.
http://www.sjgogo.com/pdf/518-en.pdf

i had it specifically reccomended to me for block drain plugs.

shrug

shrike

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for that info.

I'll look for it

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

how will the sealer hold up to the heat?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Got excited when I saw this thread title - but found that you were only talking about the engine.

shrike

iTrader: (1)

The tests they did on the sealer was at 82 deg celsius. It is true in that area the temperature gets more than that, way more. Even coolant temperature is higher than that.

shrike

iTrader: (1)

I got a new piercing.

I was expecting that, too easy as a target! Almost did it on purpose

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

can you fill with weld and redrill it?

shrike

iTrader: (1)

I cannot weld and I don`t want to take the head off just to bring it to a machine shop. It will get costly fast. Besides, I am not even sure of the shape of the engine it has 150k miles and had some oil in the intake.

First I`d like to install it and see if it starts. If it does then I will start fixing all the other small things like oil pan leaks, etc...

For now I am pretty broke, being jobless. I just want to take advantage of the time I have and do everything that only costs time.

I coul probably use some kind of epoxy with metal flakes in it but am afraid some will get in the coolant passage and block some small holes elsewhere.

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

they all have oil in the intake. i would try to fix it as best as possible before installing it in the car.

COSTIGAN86

iTrader: (8)

Assuming that this is an aluminum-headed Ls engine, next time try welding a nut to the broken bolt. If it is broken inside the head, build up the weld until it protrudes from the head then weld a nut to it. I replace broken manifold bolts on almost a weekly basis. I have been able to get broken bolts out that are deep in the head using this method. Don't worry about sloppy welding getting stuck on the head, it won't stick to the aluminum. Use a box end wrench to slowly work the welded nut back and forth until it comes out. I've never had to drill one that was broken. Hope this helps.

StormesRacing

iTrader: (1)

thats a cool trick

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

thanks man thats great. i broke a bolt in my rocker arm hole on #7 tuesday night this would've been a good idea as my welder was right next to the car. i ran to home depot and bought a 90* drill and tungston bit and used a tapered reverse drill bit extractor and it luckily came out, but it wasn't too stuck.

shrike

iTrader: (1)

That is a good thing to do but I really suck at welding.

discomonkey, I think I will change the oil pan gasket before putting the engine in the car otherwise it will be a pain once it is installed.

disc0monkey

iTrader: (10)

i HATE working on the motor in these cars. I will pull it out everytime i need to do anything more than a cam swap. this fact will probably drive me to buy a C6