LS6427

iTrader: (2)

Wondering what the quality is and if you see any difference in temps being better maintained?

I might try this on my new 441ci..........

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=220831355844

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Stage7

iTrader: (1)

Did you mean to post a link or a picture?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

i think eldebrock and evans cooling have some pretty stout pumps..........

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

OOPS....yes I did. Its there now.

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sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

????????..........found it

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Looks like snake oil to me. If its a stock casting, then there are theoretical limits to how much more one could flow through it.

If you want to have better temperature control, I'd suggest looking for a premium thermostat.

I don't think adding a "high flow" water pump is really necessary unless one is racing hard with the car or has an engine that produces significantly more heat. The stock system was tested in the desert, can handle the car idling in the heat, and has plenty of capacity.

If you did need more cooling for a given application, just adding more flow through the water pump won't be enough. You'll need a better/bigger radiator and/or more fan power to cool the extra volume of water.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I just figure if a pump can move coolant faster into the radiator, it will simply start cooling that coolant in the radiator quicker. Just get a faster jump on starting the cooling process. It seems our systems kind of move slowly. That allows the cool coolant coming into the engine/block to start getting heated while its still gradually coming in. Faster the swap of cool and hot coolant....the more efficient the system will be and the cooler overall constant temp can be maintained.
Maybe an Edlebrock water pump along the much larger opening of the "new" 2-piece t-stat set up along with my LT1 radiator or maybe a larger Be-Cool radiator....would be the ultimate set-up. Maybe even some better flowing fans.

I've never had a heating issue till last week when my t-stat started sticking.......but for my new 441ci I want to give it all the trimmings.............

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There you go. That's the real issue. Just need a good thermostat.

Its actually reverse of that. Cooling depends on the difference in temperature between the coolant, the conductivity of the metal in between the coolant and the air, the amount of contact between the air and radiator, the amount of air moving over the radiator, etc.

Speed of coolant is largely irrelevant unless you have an engine/radiator combo that demands it. With a stock radiator, moving the coolant through faster will cool down the coolant for less time before it gets back in the engine. (It will also take up less heat in the engine because its moving faster - so the two effects will balance out and you'll get the same stock result.) Likewise, if you move coolant through slower, it will cool down more through the radiator, but it will pick up more heat inside the engine.

The stock pump is the yin to the stock radiator/engine's yang. They are in balance. If you want more cooling, you'll need to do a full cooling system. (Although, for what you need, a radiator upgrade could be enough on its own.) I'd expect that makers of aftermarket radiators would have all the specs. Likewise, I'd expect that your engine builder can tell you if a bored engine requires better radiator capacity.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I didn't mean moving the coolant through the entire system faster will help cooling.....but if the swap of hot coolant thats in the engine/heads can change places with the cooler coolant sitting in the radiator thats waiting to go into the engine/heads......than the cooling process would get started faster for that hot coolant that just went into the radiator......

But you're right......I'v never had trouble before. I think I'm gonna try a 180 t-stat.

Do you happen to know if the newer 2-piece t-stat will fit any style water pump, new or old?

My engine went in in 2002.....I might even have an LS2 water pump. Any way I can look at it to tell which I have?

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Sure, a faster flow would help heat transfer in the engine, but there's the downside of moving through the radiator too fast, which wouldn't allow the coolant to cool all the way down.


A 2002 would have the newer style water pump, which I understand is the same one put in the LS2. So, if the part you get fits a GTO also, you should be good. (The only complication would be if someone else put in an old style water pump after 2002.)

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I'm not talking about moving the coolant through the entire system faster......just to make the swap faster. Thinking the faster the HOT coolant from the engine/heads gets into the radiator when the t-stat opens, then the t-stat shuts when the cooler coolant makes it full circle and starts to close the t-stat and stops all system flow....the faster it starts to cool off.

But like you said.....if I've never had overheating before I'm probably talking overkill.

That would be awesome.......then I can buy the 2-piece set-up and have a 160 and a 180 t-stat to switch in and out if I want to. I'm thinking maybe if I use a 180 the coolant will also have a little more time in the radiator to cool before the t-stat opens again.......

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The thermostat (functioning properly) doesn't impact "cooling", it will just balance the system out at 180 degrees. Good for performance but bad for emissions.

If you took the thermostat out all together, you could measure the temperature of the coolant and figure out the full potential of the system. All the thermostat does is slow things down going through the radiator/engine. Maybe a better way to think of the thermostat is that it does nothing for cooling - it actually warms things up by cutting off flow.

Say the potential of the system is 160* stock, and 165* with your bored out engine. It (the stock pump, radiator, fans, etc.) still has plenty of potential to cool the system below what you need to maintain optimum power. At that point, you just select the thermostat for the temperature you want to maintain.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I took my t-stat out to see what would happen about 7 years ago (427ci)....it overheated in 20 minutes of casual driving. I know some people can do it and it doesn't overheat...not mine. Maybe it would have been ok cruising steady on the highway, but in the city, I overheat fast. And when it started the needle was like a windshield wiper, heading right for the red fast. I had to pull over and wait.

I hope the 2-piece fits whatever water pump I have that they installed in 2002 with my 427ci. I'd like to have the option of buying a 160 and a 180 and seeing what does better in this hot *** weather.

I don't think its as simple as just picking a t-stat that you want to maintain a certain temp, and thats all.....here's what I'm thinking:
If coolant doesn't have enough time to cool down while its sitting in the radiator (160 t-stat) then each time the coolant is "swapped" the coolant overall will keep on getting hotter and hotter, til it reaches a point where the t-stat will NEVER full close again. Then you're just driving around as if there were no t-stat in there.

If we have a 180 t-stat in there...then the HOT coolant that flows into the radiator will have more time to cool before going back to the engine/heads.....because the t-stat has 20 more degrees of cooling off time till it opens again.

We'll see what happens, hopefully I can try a 180 (2-piece) to see how it does.

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Correct.

Easy test there. If you put a 180* stat in and the car maintains 180*, then that proves you have sufficient cooling between the radiator/fans/pump for that temperature. Same goes for any other temperature you might select. (I'll bet that you'll have no problem doing 210* and would think 180* should be easy also.)

The other thing to think about is the fan. I'm not an expert on this tuning, but if you want to go from 210* to another temperature, I'd think you'll have to tune the fans to come on earlier, also.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I have no idea what my tuner set my fans at when they tuned it in 2002....but I guess a 180 t-stat can't hurt if those temp settings stay the same as they are for my 160. It'll just get more fan cooling time along with longer ram air cooling time since I'll have that 20*F extra cooling period before the 180 opens.

I'm probably making a big deal out of it....as I've never had issues before in 9+ years. I think my t-stat is opening real slowly. When I had in the pot of water last week it would start to come out right around 160*F, but it would move, then stop, then move, then stop, then move, until it was fully out, and it seemed to take about 30 seconds to come all the way out. I don't think it was fully open until the water was around 185*. Keeping that coolant in the heads longer than its supposed to and not dumping it fast into the radiator to start the cooling off period.....maybe thats my issue. Just a damn sticking t-stat that I thought in the beginning.

I get home tomorrow from my trip and I'll go get a 2-piece and try it out.

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swavely

i dont think its worth it but its up to you your money your car your decision, but while we are on the topic of water pumps please answer my question heres a link https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...waterpump.html

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

V6.......? You have one serpentine that runs everything?

Interesting........I've never heard noise come from a water pump myself. All they do is spring a leak when the seal goes bad, but they always pump water regardless.

Maybe its the A/C tensioner pulley bouncing. If you have one, I can't see it with the camera moving around so much.

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You might be slightly paranoid, but there's a fine line between that and being "detail oriented."

I raised the fan thing because you could see the temperatures fluctuating on the gauge if your fan isn't calibrated to the thermostat. (When at idle, with the A/C on - any time when the fans would normally kick on.) Like you pointed out, this isn't an actual issue - but you should be attune to it if you are paranoid about the cooling.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

I just drove a little over 2 hours from Vero Beach to Lauderdale...72mph the whole way. I've done this round trip about 8 times in the past 6 months for work. Never has my temp needle gone past the 155* mark on the gauge. The trip just now it sat right at the 215* mark the whole trip, its never gone that high up and stayed there. Except the last 10 miles or so it dropped down to the 155* mark and stayed there.

I think the damn t-stat was sticking open and making me run hot....then it started cycling normally the last 10 miles. Crazy little bastard...... First thing tomorrow....getting another t-stat.

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wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Yea, and as you get close to 200, the gauge cluster will lie to you.