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Loose steering column up and down, a few tricks. I recently attempted to repair mine, the tilt pins had worn the aluminum so I need a new column or find the parts. But what I did find was these things, hope it helps you guys. I referenced this post and my factory service manual. https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...oval-pics.html The only special tools you need are a steering wheel puller and the tool to depress the lock plate to remove the snap ring. This http://i49.tinypic.com/b6d0qt.jpg And this http://i50.tinypic.com/ofar7m.jpg When you get here http://i49.tinypic.com/6oj6af.jpg You dont have to remove this pin, take a punch and pull the tilt lever handle back to remove this part of the column, same to put it back on. Remove tilt pins before you do, see last pic. When you get here http://i46.tinypic.com/205ffow.jpg Look st the side of the column, see the two two pins sticking out, right behind the broken tilt pin mount? There is a deal that fits in between those two that looks like a bottle opener called the rack, has teeth on one end and the bottle opener on the other. Here is a pic http://www.americanclassic.com/images/HRN-102NOS.jpg Make sure it's not bent, mine was and took me a while to figure it out. It was bent outward and made it pop off the ignition rod going down to the ignition switch, I bent it back. Also make sure the spring looks just like this one and pay attention to where it sits in the black cam gear as this is what makes the steering lock pin push out when you turn the key off. Also there is a little flat spring that goes underneath where it rides, dont lose it. When you get here http://i46.tinypic.com/33nyebm.jpg Look directly left of his finger, these are the tilt pins. You do not need a special tool to remove these, find a small screw and screw it in the end. Push down on the column and pull them out, same to put them in. You have to do this FIRST before removing the tilt lock feet on the top of the column or you wont have anything to push against. Hope this helps, Anyone know if you can buy internal column parts and where?? |
Looking at those pics makes me want to just deal with the bit of play I have in mine. |
Its not that easy. This job will take the better part of the day to do. Several hours to complete. |
Originally Posted by dr_whigham
(Post 15998049)
Looking at those pics makes me want to just deal with the bit of play I have in mine. |
Don't get me wrong, that's absolutely awesome work with the pics and all. I'll prob tackle mine later on... just looks intimidating, to be honest. My steering wheel really isn't all that bad, but the turn signal arm is getting sloppy. |
Originally Posted by dr_whigham
(Post 16000876)
but the turn signal arm is getting sloppy. If you've worked on a column before, adjustments here are a 1-2 hour job. (A little longer if your first time.) |
Thank you sir for the link! |
Originally Posted by runtwrestlin
(Post 13477636)
To remove the steering column housing, you must remove the pivot pins, and this requires a “steering pivot pin remover.” I borrowed mine, but I’m pretty sure you can pick it up from a parts store. You just screw it into the center of the pivot pin, then pop that sucker on out. Do the same to both sides. You also have to remove the “upper bearing inner race seat” that keeps the steering shaft from sliding forward and backwards. To do this, use the hook tool (or something) to simply pull it out. Now, there are two ways that I know of to get the entire steering column housing off. 1) Remove the dowel pin. I inserted a small punch (see picture) and gently tapped on it until it popped through. 2) Attach your tilt lever; pull it back all the way to disengage the “steering wheel lock shoes” and tilt up on the housing to try and wiggle it free. With this method you don’t have to worry about the steering wheel lock shoes coming disengaged. http://i48.tinypic.com/4hwimt.jpg IMO method 1 is easier. However, if the steering wheel lock shoes fall out, continue reading. If they don’t fall out, just skip to the next paragraph. For me, I was fiddling with the housing once it was removed and the steering wheel lock shoes fell out… So if this happens to you, you have to reposition them between the spring and the tilt lever, then get the dowel pin back in place. The 1st shoe wasn’t too difficult, but to get the dowel pin through the 2nd shoe I had to use the punch to position it while tapping the dowel pin through the other side with the hammer. http://i49.tinypic.com/6oj6af.jpg Now you should be able to pull the steering column housing off. When you pull it out the “wheel tilt spring” and the “switch actuator rack” might fall out. If your “steering column housing support assembly” needs replacing, remove the 4 screws holding it in place and do so. Somehow mine broke where the left pivot pin is secured, thereby jamming my ignition switch so I could barely turn my car off…like WTF mate… http://i46.tinypic.com/205ffow.jpg I am stuck at this point. I'd rather not push the pin out and mess with the wheel lock shoes. But I can't seem to get it to come off with Method #2. Can you describe this to me a little better? Also, once the 'steering column housing' comes off, will I have access to the four (4) E8 external torx screws which come loose over time? I sure hope so. Haha. |
Too funny, was just thinking about how I might remove the slack in my column on the way home from the gym just now. Rainy weekend ahead. Might b the thing to do in the garage |
Question for anyone who has done this before. When I got to the 'lower housing assembly', I was expecting to find four (4) E8 external torx bolts. I found these instead....... http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8257/8...199579b3_c.jpg Yes, I had removed one in the picture, it was not missing. So I took these out and applied loctite to them. Before I put everything back together, should I look into sourcing the E8 torx bolts that are 'supposed' to be in there? I'm thinking someone replaced these at one point, or my 1998 Pontiac steering column differed from all other GM steering columns. :confused: |
was just having the same issues. I just finished the install for a custom NRG hub and 6-bolt racing type wheel. Thing is, I removed the steering wheel lock CAM and the plastic wiring donut and now my column and steering wheel are both a bit loose. Not terribly loose just a little bit loose. What is standard procedure for tightening the column up? |
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By the way, it took a ton of tools and a long ass time~! Not a 2 hour job, more like two days of finding the right puller, lock remover, needle nose pliers, pickers and whatever else. Now I have to take it all apart again and figure out how to tighten the steering column up. Also, couldn't figure out which two wires to touch to get the horn working. Almost do not care. Any problem with removing the steering wheel locking CAM? I didn't see any. The ignition turns much easier. |
Originally Posted by blackenedss
(Post 19224081)
By the way, it took a ton of tools and a long ass time~! Not a 2 hour job, more like two days of finding the right puller, lock remover, needle nose pliers, pickers and whatever else.
Originally Posted by blackenedss
(Post 19224081)
Also, couldn't figure out which two wires to touch to get the horn working. |
Originally Posted by wssix99
(Post 19225331)
There is a learning curve. They the fifth time you do it, it will take you 5 minutes. This is what everyone on here who has R&Red their heads and cam 5-10 times or more tell me about that job as well. :lol: |
Originally Posted by dailydriver
(Post 19226175)
This is what everyone on here who has R&Red their heads and cam 5-10 times or more tell me about that job as well. :lol: |
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