Leak Prevention (Crush Washer/Thread Sealant)
#1
Leak Prevention (Crush Washer/Thread Sealant)
I was wondering if we could talk about how everyone is keeping their cars from leaking fluids. For example:
Do you use a crush washer and/or thread sealant on your engine oil drain plug?
Do you use thread sealant on your T56 drain plug?
How do you keep your 10 bolt from leaking?
I am confident that with all of the knowledge in this forum, we can keep the undersides of our cars and the areas where we park our cars clean. I am more concerned about the underside of my car though.
Thank you
Do you use a crush washer and/or thread sealant on your engine oil drain plug?
Do you use thread sealant on your T56 drain plug?
How do you keep your 10 bolt from leaking?
I am confident that with all of the knowledge in this forum, we can keep the undersides of our cars and the areas where we park our cars clean. I am more concerned about the underside of my car though.
Thank you
#2
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Nothing additional is required to keep the oil drain plug from leaking, in my experience.
The rear can leak from a few different places (cover gasket, bolt holes, pinion seal), so the fix will depend on where the leak has originated.
I have no input on the T56, I'm an auto guy.
The rear can leak from a few different places (cover gasket, bolt holes, pinion seal), so the fix will depend on where the leak has originated.
I have no input on the T56, I'm an auto guy.
#3
Save the manuals!
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The drain plugs should not leak. If they do, something really odd is going on or they should be replaced. The other seals (10 bolt, oil pan, crankshaft, pinion gear seals, etc.) all either have a finite life or were meant to be temporary. Part of owning any old car is to change these seals over time.
It's just part of the deal and there isn't anything yet that will combat rubber becoming brittle with time or the flexing and chemical environments seals are exposed to. I suppose everything could be beefed up like a head/head gasket, but the car would quickly get out of hand.
Now that we are of this age, I'm starting to replace these things proactively whenever I have good access to a seal. (New pinion seal and 10 bolt seal with a diff oil change, new rear main seal with a clutch replacement, etc.)
It's just part of the deal and there isn't anything yet that will combat rubber becoming brittle with time or the flexing and chemical environments seals are exposed to. I suppose everything could be beefed up like a head/head gasket, but the car would quickly get out of hand.
Now that we are of this age, I'm starting to replace these things proactively whenever I have good access to a seal. (New pinion seal and 10 bolt seal with a diff oil change, new rear main seal with a clutch replacement, etc.)
#4
TECH Fanatic
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I keep a bit of anti-seize on my t56 plugs, but I doubt that would stop a leak. If you're engine drain plug is leaking you need to get a new one with a new seal (little plastic or rubber ring). All that being said my trans has been rebuilt and I have a new rear so now only my engine leaks like a sieve that is all from bad gaskets, I'll be swapping the oil pan gasket when I do motor mounts.
#5
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
i stopped using rtv on threads and use either blue block or basic white ptfe dope. i find the blue block while messy and hard to neatly apply, it works excellent on preventing oil seepage past parts that don't seal well and/or were designed poorly. if you coat a plastic washer or metal crush washer with the blue and assemble it will not leak. the white ptfe dope is easier to use on plugs with npt threads. i'm not a fan of the "automotive" grade sealants that much anymore.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-oz-Bloc...7072/100151570
http://www.supplyhouse.com/Blue-Mons...FQckhgod6mUExw
http://www.homedepot.com/p/8-oz-Bloc...7072/100151570
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#9
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clean the old gasket material off the cover and housing first, which is the hard part.
use either a putty knife or wire brush, don't get gasket material in the housing.
you can either buy a felpro gasket #RDS55072 and be good to go,
or use permatex rtv either the ultra gray, orange, or green gear oil gasket maker... but you would need to wait at least 1 hour for it to cure enough to not leak (unlike using the felpro gasket)
use either a putty knife or wire brush, don't get gasket material in the housing.
you can either buy a felpro gasket #RDS55072 and be good to go,
or use permatex rtv either the ultra gray, orange, or green gear oil gasket maker... but you would need to wait at least 1 hour for it to cure enough to not leak (unlike using the felpro gasket)
#10
clean the old gasket material off the cover and housing first, which is the hard part.
use either a putty knife or wire brush, don't get gasket material in the housing.
you can either buy a felpro gasket #RDS55072 and be good to go,
or use permatex rtv either the ultra gray, orange, or green gear oil gasket maker... but you would need to wait at least 1 hour for it to cure enough to not leak (unlike using the felpro gasket)
use either a putty knife or wire brush, don't get gasket material in the housing.
you can either buy a felpro gasket #RDS55072 and be good to go,
or use permatex rtv either the ultra gray, orange, or green gear oil gasket maker... but you would need to wait at least 1 hour for it to cure enough to not leak (unlike using the felpro gasket)