nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...goes-down.html

Thats the only relevant thread I found, but my issue is a bit different. Also I found no glass bumpers at the bottom of either of my doors as described in that thread? My pass side window operates perfectly.

My window goes down so much that it bends the fiberglass (common issue)/ the whole assembly shifts a few millimeters (shouldn't be happening). It also goes up farther than it should, here is a vid (You can't really see the SMC bowing out, but it does):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJIUJ...ature=youtu.be

2000ultraZ1911

There's stops you can adjust for the going up to far they kinda look like a hook that hooks into another j hook on the glass itself that's what it looks like ur main problem is also a cross bar that the other arm of the regulator rides in you may have to adjust it. The regulator movement is about normal for f bodys you can replace them with 1/4" rivits one at a time and that helps tighten em up real good but pretty common I wrk at a automotive glass company and we get a lot of these kind of problems.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You have this problem and should fix it ASAP so it doesn't get worse: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...ncluded-2.html

Since yours hasn't gotten too bad, you may be able to epoxy some washers to the door and then re-rivet.

Do you know if your motor has ever been replaced?

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Well this sucks.. Pretty sure the motor has been replaced as it sounds different than my p/s and there are metal filings in the window track along with relatively fresh looking grease.

Can the regulator be bolted into place?

superlazy

I used jbweld and some washers on mine.
Not pretty but worked

before


after

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Just regular self tapping screws? I don't know if I'd trust JB on fiberglass lol, stupid fiberglass doors.

Thanks for posting up!

superlazy

Just regular screws. I took one of the old screws to the hardware store matched the threads and picked out some screws just a smidge longer than old ones. I must have tried 50 different washes until I found the ones that fit the screws properly and were the diameter and thickness I was looking for.
The jb weld should be fine I got the idea for using it from another thread

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

BTW - If you are going to use screws, only use them where there is metal bonded to the door. Improper rivets/bolts/etc. are what seem to cause this problem. (Or the last person to drill the rivets could have gone too big.)

GM supplies a special steel mandrel/aluminum jacket for this material which is solid enough to hold but pliable enough not to gouge out the composite panel. Often shops and other folks will use full steel rivets or bolts, which are much harder and unforgiving.

The other nice thing about rivets is that they don't come loose on you.

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Ideally I'd like to go with the most "factory" approach possible, but it would appear that the SMC is too far gone to not employ the use of washers/ a mounting bracket?

By you mentioning using these specific rivets, do you mean epoxying washers onto the appropriate areas and then riveting the regulator onto the washers?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

correct. GM gives proceedures on composite panel repair but its essentially epoxying more composite in. So, putting in a metal plate here gets you the same result ans is probably a bit stronger.


I'd, at a minimum look at using the special rivets in any stock hole that you might be left with. Once you put the metal in there, you are no longer bearing on the composite, so it probably doesn't matter what you use. I'd recommend going with a rivet vs. a bolt to get a snug attachment that won't come loose.

While you are doing all this, you may want to pre-drill the holes for the shbox method of replacing the motor in case you need to do that in the future. That way, you won't have to remove the regulator or any door panel rivets when you next need to change the motor.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

I forgot to mention the complication that a special super-sized riveter is needed for the rivets. Its not a common thing to have in one's toolbox unless you work at a body or mechanical shop. (Or, if you really like tools, this is a great excuse to invest $150 in a nice riveter.)

nitroheadz28

iTrader: (3)

Thanks a lot sir! Much appreciated