hooker2007

Proud owner of a new used 2002 Camaro SS with 90k miles.

Factory options include:
>>Functional hoodscoop
>>Hurst short-throw shifter
>>Traction control w/ dash switch

Aftermarket mods include:
>>SLP Lid
>>Polished/ported throttle body
>>Kooks longtube headers
>>Offroad Y pipe
>>Cutout in Y with bolt on cap

Unfortunately, the seller was not the one who did the mods or maintained it. The engine is the cleanest ive seen on a 90k LS1, but I have no clue what oil or other fluids he used.

I dont know when (or if) the sparkplugs have been changed.

The owners manual just reccomends regular tire rotations and oil changes, with new sparkplugs at 100k and a fluid flush at 150k.

What should I do as far as regular maintainence to insure engine life and efficiency?

Once the car is for sure running at 100%, what mods or upgrades would you suggest next?

Short of cams/heads or forced induction, all that seems left are little things like underdrive pulleys.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

Nothing abnormal. Either name brand regular oil and good filter with 3-4k mile oil changes or good synthetic (my car seems to like Castrol Syntec 0w-30) with a good filter and higher mileage oil changes.

For spark plugs (if you want to change them) cheap NGK TR5 or TR55 gapped to 45 or 50 will work great and not break the bank.

Definitely replace the fuel filter for piece of mind I have seen several fbodies that have never had one and were clogged to the point of causing the car to run lean at wide open throttle.

You might also consider fresh front o2 sensors. Right now you can get them from a bulk dealer on ebay for around $56 shipped for the pair. They will be Denso brand sensors in non-factory boxes.

Hard to say if proper Dex Cool coolant was used it's whole life so it wouldn't hurt to do a full coolant flush and then you can either refill with Dex Cool or if you flushed it well can switch to standard green coolant.

hooker2007

What is the benefit of replacing 02 sensors as far as power/efficiency/reliability?

What do they do for me?

paradigmGT

I would also like to know this.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

fresh o2 sensors make sure fueling is accurate so the PCM can adjust the fuel trims

if a sensor is reading lean the PCM will develop positive fuel trims, if the pcm has positive fuel trims (adding fuel) it will also add that amount of fuel to WOT, if it adds unnecessary fuel at WOT the car will be rich and likely slower

if the car is running great it is likely a non-issue but if the car has over 100k miles on stock o2 sensors I would consider replacing them but save the old ones for spares

paradigmGT

Good to know. What if the car only has 34k miles, but it is 15 years old. Would you suggest changing them out still, or is age much less of a factor than miles?

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

If you do end up replacing the O2 sensors, you should consider the longer Corvette sensors so that you can get rid of any extensions. I'd suggest ACDelco - 213-810 - $46 shipped from Amazon.

I'd also suggest getting rid of that power steering cooler in the upper radiator hose. Look at the top of the section for the sticky "Power Steering Cooler Success" to see what it's about.

dailydriver

No one ever changes out their brake fluid, since they are only concerned with going fast in a straight line and not stopping, and it is not considered an E.T. lowering 'performance upgrade', but IF that is the original brake fluid (even at those miles) in there, IT IS TOAST.

Not just that, but it could be very acidic (besides being full of water) at this point, and it WILL start eating away at the calipers and brake lines if that is the case.

I would also change out the T56's fluid (since they are NOT a "fill for life", despite what the manuals, or dealers claim. )

The rear axle, and the Dex Cool would be the other things I'd want changed out, so that I'd have a 'starting fresh' point.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't bother. O2 sensors don't wear from just sitting.

Excellent advice, I agree.

More good advice. I've always made it a point to change brake and PS fluid as well. Components last a lot longer if you do.

It's 5 years OR 150k miles for the coolant flush. If your coolant is original, it's way past 5 years. I'd flush the system ASAP so you know that it's fresh.

paradigmGT

Which fluid would you use in the T56? I am reading that people are having success with the cheap partstore ATF instead of using more expensive synthetic fluid?

I was thinking of changing my rear diff fluid but I may wait until I swap in a set of 4.10s next spring.

stinkynuts

iTrader: (7)

I use the Synchromesh in my T56. It's pretty great
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-88900333

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I used Valvoline DEX III. Worked just fine.

I used to be a firm Synchromesh user, but -- and this may just be coincidence -- my T56's would begin to have synchro problems, especially the 1-2 shift. It would also pop out of gear. Again, maybe nothing to do with the fluid, but I went back to DEX III because of it.

dailydriver

Like the l.s. diff fluid controversies, there are 200+ page threads on which fluids could/should/would be used in a T56.

I can only tell you what I have observed with the fluids I've used in mine.

It was Ok with regular old dino Dex 3 ATFs (I've used; Havoline, Pennzoil, Castrol in this flavor).

A little bit better with Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, and the GM/Pennzoil Synchromesh fluid was about the same performance when warmed up or in hot weather, slightly more notchy in the cold.

It ground EVERY gear with the Royal Purple Synchromax, to the point that I dumped it out (and WASTED ~$80.00 ) the VERY NEXT DAY after I installed it. I thought it would DESTROY my gearbox (or at least the blocker rings/synchros) if I left it in any longer.
I may be the only one who has had this happen using this fluid, i don't know, but I will NEVER use it again in a Tremec gearbox.

It shifts VERY well when fully warmed up, or in HOT ambient temps with either the Red Line MTL, or the Amsoil MTF, but BOTH of these are substantially thicker than the 7.7 cSt @ 100* C of the Tremec recommended Dex 3 ATF, so they WILL grind/'nibble' on the 1-2 shift in COLD ambient temps until warm.
One can mix the Red Line MTL with their D4 ATF, to thin it out as bit, but still get some of that feel good, actual GL-4 gear and bearing protection, but it still might grind in the cold.

So, you ask, WHAT are you using now??

I have some very expensive, almost impossible to find in this country, Ravenol MTF-2 fluid, which was mainly designed for the Bimmer Getrag manuals, '97 and up.
I went with this because all of the 'experts', and tribologists on bobistheoilguy.com had me paranoid that I am destroying the bearings and gears in my T56 by using a Dex3 ATF product, and not a very thin (7.0-8.5 cSt @ 100*C), GL-4 rated, manual transmission fluid.

The sad thing is that it shifts WORSE THAN anything except the RP Synchromax crap.

So, on Monday, I am going to just use the straight, 100% Red Line D$ ATF, which their head tech/tribologist claims DOES meet the GL-4 specs, despite being an ATF (bitog be DAMNED!!).
I've used this once in the past, and it DID shift the absolute BEST of any of the many fluids I've tried in the past 175K miles in this NOT rebuilt T56.

As another great endorsement for this product; Sam Strano, MANY time national E/Street prepared autocross champion, has used the D4 in his 350K mile, daily driven, and autocrossed/open tracked (with VERY wide 315/30 17, VERY sticky Hoosier A6 tires at all four corners) '99 Z28's T56 with NO problems, and NO rebuilds.

paradigmGT

Good information guys, thank you.
I ended up going with conventional ATF by Castrol. So far so good, shifts great.

RockinWs6

I'd let the 02 sensors be if its running ok, could scan and see where everything is. The 02 sensors last a very long time, you will know when you need new ones. It will run terrible surge and buck.

1st thing you should do to that car is tighten the intake manifold bolts. I GARRANTEE they are loose! AND seal the windshield cowling!

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Don't forget the fuel/air filter and plugs/wires. Burning through a can of Seafoam isn't a bad idea either.

If you're going to delete the PS cooler, may as well shell out an extra $20 and get a REAL cooler. More info here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...er-delete.html