castrol 0w30 not made in germany
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castrol 0w30 not made in germany
Was at Autozone the other day and checked out the oil I use for my SS, Castrol 0w30 Made in Germany, and it said made in Belgium, WTF?
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Yes, they switched the country of origin.
Their 5W-40 (also known as BC, or Belgian Castrol) was always made in Belgium, but ironically enough, I believe is now made in Deutschland.
Many of the oil aficiandos on bobistheoilguy.com have abandoned the so called GC, or German Castrol 0W-30, once the formula no longer had the green color (from dye) to it, claiming that the stout add pack that version had in it's SL, and maybe early SM iterations was neutered once it went to the regular gold/amber colored SN versions.
Their 5W-40 (also known as BC, or Belgian Castrol) was always made in Belgium, but ironically enough, I believe is now made in Deutschland.
Many of the oil aficiandos on bobistheoilguy.com have abandoned the so called GC, or German Castrol 0W-30, once the formula no longer had the green color (from dye) to it, claiming that the stout add pack that version had in it's SL, and maybe early SM iterations was neutered once it went to the regular gold/amber colored SN versions.
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Yes, they switched the country of origin.
Their 5W-40 (also known as BC, or Belgian Castrol) was always made in Belgium, but ironically enough, I believe is now made in Deutschland.
Many of the oil aficiandos on bobistheoilguy.com have abandoned the so called GC, or German Castrol 0W-30, once the formula no longer had the green color (from dye) to it, claiming that the stout add pack that version had in it's SL, and maybe early SM iterations was neutered once it went to the regular gold/amber colored SN versions.
Their 5W-40 (also known as BC, or Belgian Castrol) was always made in Belgium, but ironically enough, I believe is now made in Deutschland.
Many of the oil aficiandos on bobistheoilguy.com have abandoned the so called GC, or German Castrol 0W-30, once the formula no longer had the green color (from dye) to it, claiming that the stout add pack that version had in it's SL, and maybe early SM iterations was neutered once it went to the regular gold/amber colored SN versions.
It's easy to get on Amazon or Walmart and pretty cheap at $25 for a 5 qt jug.
I liked the old 0W-30, bought tons of bottles and just ran out. Tried 0W-40 and the valve train seems to have gotten a little louder...I've been running Redline and GC since my first oil change.
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Most think that the Mobil 1 0W-40 beats the Castrol stuff, by FAR (more moly, higher TBN AND viscosity index), and it is just as inexpensive at Sino Mart.
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There's several qts of German Castrol at my local Advance Auto's. Haven't checked AutoZones. There is also the Belgium Castrol as well. All are labeled API SL. I know back in the day the 0w30 that was made in north america wasn't as good as the Made in Germany...what about that made in Belgium.
How does the current 0w30 stack up against Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and Mobil 1 0w40?
How does the current 0w30 stack up against Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and Mobil 1 0w40?
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If M1 0w40 has higher zinc...I'll buy it today!
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What about zinc??? Ed Curtis specified on my cam card to use an oil with high zinc. I have an off road exhaust so I don't have to worry about it clogging the cats. I want to find an oil thats the best compromise and value that still protects my valve train and fights against side loading of the valve guides.
If M1 0w40 has higher zinc...I'll buy it today!
If M1 0w40 has higher zinc...I'll buy it today!
The M1 0W-40 has 1000 ppm of phosphorus, and 1100 ppm of zinc, both equal to. or higher than Castrol (I believe even including their current 0W-30 and 0W-40).
IF you need higher than this, according to Ed, then you will have to go to one of the (mail order) 'boutique oils' (Red Line, JGD LS30, etc.), at least if you want a full synthetic in the 0W-30/40 viscosity grades.
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Did he mention just how much ZDDP you actually NEED??
The M1 0W-40 has 1000 ppm of phosphorus, and 1100 ppm of zinc, both equal to. or higher than Castrol (I believe even including their current 0W-30 and 0W-40).
IF you need higher than this, according to Ed, then you will have to go to one of the (mail order) 'boutique oils' (Red Line, JGD LS30, etc.), at least if you want a full synthetic in the 0W-30/40 viscosity grades.
The M1 0W-40 has 1000 ppm of phosphorus, and 1100 ppm of zinc, both equal to. or higher than Castrol (I believe even including their current 0W-30 and 0W-40).
IF you need higher than this, according to Ed, then you will have to go to one of the (mail order) 'boutique oils' (Red Line, JGD LS30, etc.), at least if you want a full synthetic in the 0W-30/40 viscosity grades.
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Of course, but 89 was asking about fully formulated oils themselves.
Of all of the ZDDP type additives, I like the Red Line the best since you also get a big shot of moly, and even some boron in it, whereas most of the others are just pure ZDDP, and sometimes WAY TOO MUCH of it if one adds the whole bottle.
Of all of the ZDDP type additives, I like the Red Line the best since you also get a big shot of moly, and even some boron in it, whereas most of the others are just pure ZDDP, and sometimes WAY TOO MUCH of it if one adds the whole bottle.
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Of course, but 89 was asking about fully formulated oils themselves.
Of all of the ZDDP type additives, I like the Red Line the best since you also get a big shot of moly, and even some boron in it, whereas most of the others are just pure ZDDP, and sometimes WAY TOO MUCH of it if one adds the whole bottle.
Of all of the ZDDP type additives, I like the Red Line the best since you also get a big shot of moly, and even some boron in it, whereas most of the others are just pure ZDDP, and sometimes WAY TOO MUCH of it if one adds the whole bottle.