Mr Phil

I'm wanting to just get rid of the power steering. Idk where the leak is coming from but it's already killed two alternators and I just want it gone

I already have the belt and pulley replacement from this picture I pulled from another website


But I can't find any info on how to remove everything. Are there any holes or anything I'll need to plug up?

If anyone can help me with what I'll need or just give me a link that actually gives step by step instructions that would be great.

98 trans am, I just want it gone. I know it's not dd friendly but oh well

Mr Phil

And after I remove the pressure lines from the pump and everything else, with do I do with the exposed holes or whatever? Will this have any long term damage?

Mr Phil

Anyone know anything? Hell just find me a damn link idc....

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

if your car has a factory power steering cooler in the radiator hose, you will want to eliminate that by getting a new hose for a non-power steering cooler car. Aside from that you'll need a manual steering rack setup. check out these threads:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/suspensio...-steering.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-opinions.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...nual-rack.html

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Are you looking to solve the pulley dillema or the whole system? If the whole system, I'd suggest leaving this post here for most of that and putting another thread about the pulleys, specifically, in the Generation III External Engine section.

If you'd like this thread moved there, we can also do that too.

Mr Phil

What pulley dilemma? Removing and installing pulley wasn't the issue, its what to do with the lines, where they go, what they mean by looping it, where to loop it... people keep saying to do that but I can't find any hoe to or even any pictures to reference the "loop" so I can do it myself

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Ah. Just had a thought - with an electric water pump, you'd only need a belt to the alt.

I'm not sure what you'd need to loop. Once you take out the pump and the cooler, the only hoses left is one going in to the rack (high pressure hose) and one going out of the rack. (low pressure hose) Are you going to keep the original power steering rack? If so, you can just cut those two hoses and connect them together. Or if you want something cleaner, you can use this method to connect one of the hoses directly to one of the other stubs: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-fix-pics.html

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

that is "the loop" being described in the other threads (connecting the 2 lines coming from the rack into 1 line "loop").

I would suggest getting a proper manual steering rack, trying to turn a power steering rack without power steering is a pain in the ***.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

... arms, too.

dailydriver

Yes, aren't the actual manual racks that all of the drag racers install MUCH easier to turn than a no pump, power steering rack, even without skinnies (and WITH full size tires/wheels) on the front??

Mr Phil

Well my main reason is because I have a leak from somewhere that keeps killing alternators and I don't have the money to buy a brand new set up... so it would kinda be a temp situation until I can either A. Afford a BMR set up or B. Replace the pump

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

The bit about P/S fluid ruining the alternators is a false myth. The internals of the alternator are sealed and are exposed to dust and whatever road filth flows through the engine compartment. My experience has been crappy alternators ruin alternators. The last one I replaced only had 10K miles on it before the "all-new" bearings crapped out. (I've since gone to taking warrantied models from whatever the local parts store has on the shelf.)

Have you flushed your P/S fluid lately? A lot of folks have mystery leaks and it turns out to be old fluid boiling over in the tank. I guess your pump could be leaking, but commonly they like to make noise when going bad.

Mr Phil

Ok any suggestions on flushing the fluid? I do see wetness around the cap on the resevoir all the time. Why would fluid boil over like that? Is it because I don't have a cooler.like on the later models?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There's some good discussion buried in this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...g-success.html There are also links to flushing procedures there. You can do an active flush with the pump running and the return hose disconnected (this requires quick reflexes and two people) or you can do the turkey baster method. (sucking out the reservoir, putting in new fluid, running the engine, and repeating until its all clear)

In a nutshell, folks with the cooler and without the cooler have the boil-over issue. (Folks with the cooler may have hotter temperatures than those without the cooler in many situations.) The one thing that universally seems to stop boil-over is a fluid flush. My guess is that the old/contaminated fluid behaves in a different way and is more prone to gas build up or expansion under heating.

Mr Phil

Ok cool thanks and here I was about to drop $300+ dollars on a new turn one ps pump and pulley lol

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Most of the leaks come from the pressure hose and/or seal on the back of the pump.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

^ Yea, I'd start with the easy stuff. There's the fluid change and then the pressure hose or pump seals. If your pressure hose or the pump is leaking, that should be evident with the car running and the system pressurized. If you just have fluid and no active leak that can be seen, it could be the tank seal (not too common) or a simple boil-over.