General Maintenance & Repairs Leaks | Squeaks | Clunks | Rattles | Grinds

A/C Overhaul - New Comp, orifice, dryer... Questions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-02-2014, 09:42 PM
  #1  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
nimrod.sixty9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Okeechobee, FL
Posts: 473
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default A/C Overhaul - New Comp, orifice, dryer... Questions

2002 3.8 Bird;

Any special instructions or tips on how to remove the compressor? From searching I gathered... three bolts in front, one in middle, and two in the back plus the line bolt, electrical connector, and belt. Does this sound right? Is there a bracket that has to be removed?

Oil capacity and type, and refrigerant capacity?

Where is the orifice tube located? Any particular brand or type to get? Variable orifice tube?

Any help greatly appreciated. Going to get the parts first thing tomorrow.
Old 10-04-2014, 07:10 AM
  #2  
TECH Addict
 
fleetmgr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 2,012
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

If you're doing this after a compressor death, you'll need to flush the system before putting the new parts in. Not doing the flush will guarantee very short component life.
When replacing the compressor, you should also replace the dryer.
You may not have an orifice tube, your car may have a thermo expansion valve (txv). If you can flush through it, you don't need to replace it.

Your refrigerant capacity should be on sticker under the hood. You'll need to check a manual for oil capacity. Type per the compressor mfr.
Old 10-04-2014, 02:28 PM
  #3  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
 
1 FMF's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: CT
Posts: 1,861
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by nimrod.sixty9
2002 3.8 Bird;

Any help greatly appreciated.

from what you are asking it seems like you know next to nothing about AC.
you can't just undo and replace parts then bolt it back together.
do you have a vacuum pump to evacuate the system prior to charging it with oil and refrigerant? how are you going to charge it with the correct amount of refrigerant by weight?
the system takes 1.5 lbs of r134a and total PAG oil capacity is 9 ounces.

your better off finding a licensed AC repair shop who will
- replace your compressor with new one and provide you with written warranty on their work and cover any future parts replacements including labor
- they will flush your evaporator, and being a 2002 just replace your lines because the ones that go from hard line to rubber are prone to leaking over time and the rubber line itself deteriorates.
- if you had compressor failure and any evidence of debris in the system they will replace your condenser
- replace accumulator and orifice tube, all new o-rings and service valves.

if you attempt this work yourself the likely outcome is your AC will blow hot, or you might get it blowing cold but the compressor won't live more than a year in either case and you'll be back where you started.

removing the compressor is rather easy, not much different than removing the alternator or other belt driven accessory on front of motor.
Old 10-04-2014, 11:59 PM
  #4  
TECH Regular
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
 
nimrod.sixty9's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Okeechobee, FL
Posts: 473
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Originally Posted by 1 FMF
from what you are asking it seems like you know next to nothing about AC.
you can't just undo and replace parts then bolt it back together.
do you have a vacuum pump to evacuate the system prior to charging it with oil and refrigerant? how are you going to charge it with the correct amount of refrigerant by weight?
the system takes 1.5 lbs of r134a and total PAG oil capacity is 9 ounces.

your better off finding a licensed AC repair shop who will
- replace your compressor with new one and provide you with written warranty on their work and cover any future parts replacements including labor
- they will flush your evaporator, and being a 2002 just replace your lines because the ones that go from hard line to rubber are prone to leaking over time and the rubber line itself deteriorates.
- if you had compressor failure and any evidence of debris in the system they will replace your condenser
- replace accumulator and orifice tube, all new o-rings and service valves.

if you attempt this work yourself the likely outcome is your AC will blow hot, or you might get it blowing cold but the compressor won't live more than a year in either case and you'll be back where you started.

removing the compressor is rather easy, not much different than removing the alternator or other belt driven accessory on front of motor.
To be fiar I could see where you would assume so, but I dont remember saying Im just bolting anything on without flush, leak checks, vacuum, etc. In fact Ive done a few A/Cs, have the vacuum and gauges. In my current situation tho I have yet to inspect the impact from the compressor; so it may be flush or it maybe replace lines and condenser. Never done the evap tho, that would be hell me thinks.

I have yet to get the parts cause AZ was a compete rip and would not warranty it cause they didnt have the big three parts to sell me all at once. Only one store had one comp, but didnt have the accum. F' it, ordering online.

So it's 9oz 150? Split between comp and accum?

Reason I asked about the comp mounting is that Ive seen many ask and have issues with the 3.8 mounting yet nothing saying definitive on how to remove. I did find this tho;





Quick Reply: A/C Overhaul - New Comp, orifice, dryer... Questions



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:37 AM.