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getting ready to change my transmission fluid and filter. For anyone who has done this, anything I need to know? Ive read online about all the bolts and how to loosen the pan on the front and sides and lightly loosen them on the back to drain the fluid out, I also heard there are 2 bolts that are longer than the rest of them. After I get the fluid(most of it anyway) and lower the pan, are any bolts attached to anything else? I am also considering getting one of these pans to replace my OEM one.
Would you recommend using blue Loctite on the bolts being as they do not require much torquing (96-120 in. lbs according to Haynes manual)
Also, would you recommend some sealant when reattaching the pan or would the gasket be sufficient?
Thanks
The 2 longer bolts are for the shift cable bracket. I did not use any kind of threadlocker and used only the 'thick' rubber gasket that came with my TCI deep cast aluminum pan.
I once had trouble getting the firebird in the right gear so I thought I'd check the linkage, one of those 2 bolts holding the linkage on was flat out GONE and the other was half backed out. My guess would be the PO failed to properly torque the bolts, since I replaced the missing bolt and re-torqued all the pan bolts I haven't had any issue, so just make sure it's torqued right. I would get that pan if for no other reason then how easy it would make changing trans fluid in the future.
yep, checked into that, it would hang a little more than a 1/4" lower than it is now, my car isn't lowered nor am I planning to lower it anytime soon, so its all good.
yep, checked into that, it would hang a little more than a 1/4" lower than it is now, my car isn't lowered nor am I planning to lower it anytime soon, so its all good.
Be careful though, I bought that EXACT same pan last year and went over a tall speed bump, which scraped the drain plug. 10 minutes later, the damn thing popped off while I was going down the highway. Notice how the drain plug is the lowest point on the pan.
At the time, I had stock springs and shocks by the way. I'd hate to see the same thing happen to someone else.
Just make sure you have a lot of rags and degreaser to clean the mess up. And take pictures with your phone before you unbolt it so you mount the shift cable bracket and what not in the right bolt hole when you put it back together. Make sure you torque it to the correct specs, usually starting from the middle and working out to the edges, I would check the instructions with the oil pan to conform this. Also a small bead of RTV will help keep the new gasket in place on the oil pan as you install it. And wear safety glasses so you don't get sh** in your eyes cause you will.
I think it was said before but just to reiterate. If you get a deeper pan you will need a different filter to reach the bottom of the pan. Putting silicone on a rubber gasket defeats the purpose of a rubber gasket unless its just to hold it in place. Torqued to spec. your pan bolts won't need thread locker. last but not least make sure the longer bolts go back to the shift cable bracket.
03-20-2015, 04:51 PM
a little guidance before i tackle this 
