Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Aluminum Window Motor Braces

There was a thread here awhile back where some guy showed how he had a piece of aluminum cut to fit the inside of his door and attached it to his door as a fix for the issue with the window motor replacement where the motor / regulator would start eating the fiberglass causing the window to sag or misalign. He had a pdf or something attached showing the exact dimensions of how to cut this aluminum sheet.

My passenger side window motor died and I'm also about to do some serious interior restoration so I figured I needed to address this as well. I couldn't find the dimensions of that aluminum brace but could anyone assist me in locating it and also how exactly they attached it to the door?

Thank you.

Window motor retrofit questions.

I know several of you have tried replacement aftermarket motors that were designed to be compatible with the OEM setup and regulator. I am also aware that for awhile Dorman had a good motor that has seemed to have disapeared off the market and no one knows where the design disapeared to. I am half tempted to contact Dorman to find out who exactly manufactured them and see if there's any way to get in touch with the manufacture.

Meanwhile however.. Our window motor designs were decades old even when our cars hit the show room let alone can they compete with anything on the market today. Costs and money asside.. is there any way regardless of how much re-wiring or modification is necessary, that we can retrofit a modern window motor into our cars? Maybe something like in the C5's and C6's or even 5th Gen Camaro's? I just can't understand why something like this wouldn't be possible and why noone has seemingly tried given the exponentially greater reliability and speed these different designs offer.. and by design I am aware of the possibility that it may not even be the window motor / regulator as the weak link, its just I don't wish to replace or swap these things every 3 years.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

Any ideas at all?

farmington

iTrader: (14)

I still have my original motor on the driver's side. I did replace the passenger side about 5 years ago. The replacement motors are inexpensive and easy to replace. Don't over think this. Replace the motor and be done with it.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This is the conclusion I came to after trying a $250 aftermarket window kit that blew up on me. Anything is possible - for a price.

Once one does the shbox method for motor replacement, the problem with the regulator eating into the door is solved and the motor change-out becomes a 5-10 minute process. If one gets a lifetime warranty motor, the costs are extremely low.

That being said, I do have the "old" new design Dorman motor and I haven't touched them in almost 8 years now. (Dorman didn't design or make it - they just carried it as a part for a while. Autozone was the first to carry the part as a Duralast piece.)

Lup

Camaro,

Aluminum Window Motor Braces.
I know I've seen a PDF template someone made, but I can't find it. If you have no issues with the window glass stopping before the top, I'd say your regulator rivet holes are probably ok.

Window motor retrofit questions.
I'm VERY close on finishing up my own adapter plate to fit a better GM window motor for 4th gen F-body line. I have been researching and testing for over the past year and a half. I set out to do this project for myself, but I know how beneficial and helpful it would be for everyone else that knows how bad the original window motors are. I can't even count how many window motors I replaced in my personal 4th gens and 4th gens, STILL under warranty when I was a Mechanic at a Chevy and Pontiac dealer

My test so far show the crappy original motor takes 5-6 seconds up and 5-6 seconds down. My new better motor with adapter plate approx. 3 seconds up and 3 seconds down.

I'm still waiting on another manufacture's motor to test before I determine this project to be 100% complete. A Beta test on my personal vehicle shows a slight issue that might be taken care of by using a different manufacture motor. Right now the better motor with the adapter bracket is a direct bolt on without modifications, and I'm hoping to keep it that way

Need4Camaro- If you can wait a few weeks to tackle your window issue, I will be done with this project.

wssix99- From what it sounds like, I need to pay for a vendors spot here on LS1tech to post any links for selling these plates?

I've been reading so many posts about- "is there any better window motors for our cars?" and I've wanted to post so bad, but I wasn't ready. I finally gave in, but bear with me.


--Kyle

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Correct. Some folks (rather than setting up a separate company to make just one part) will team up with one of our F-Body vendors on the site to carry their one off parts, which also opens up the door to promoting them on the site.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I'm definitely willing to wait. The car isn't my DD anymore and I've been looking to modernize some things, window motors being one of the biggest things. Just shoot me a PM when you're done. Just curious will I still need to worry about bolts biting into the fiberglass of the door or will this design resolve this as well?

Lup

The regulator is not changed in any way. New better motor mounts to the adapter plate, and the adapter plate mounts to the original spot where the original crappy motor was. Basically a motor swap

Cheetoh

iTrader: (10)

Is everyone just replacing the Motor or the Motor and rails? My car only has 16,000 mile on it.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Motor only. Use the shbox method for replacement. Don't touch the regulator, but drill extra holes in the door panel for the shbox method. This will ease the install and retain the longevity of the door panel.

Use Sil-Glyde grease on the rails and it will run good-as-new!

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

and also make sure to have a C-Clamp or something hold the window up while you remove the motor, if not - well.. ... it will a very big mess.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This is a great idea no matter how it's done, but with the shbox method, there's not as much force involved since the window remains attached to the regulator as a counterweight.