SalG

This is a somewhat long story but I'll try to be as short and sweet as possible. I bought my 1999 SS in October 2016 (69K Miles). Live in a cold area so it has been parked in my cold garage bay. I changed out the oil in it a few weeks after I got it and it was black (Dirty Royal Purple synthetic Oil according to seller). I put conventional oil in and it was started, warmed up, pulled outside and stopped about 25-30 times over the course of the winter (but not driven which I know now is not good for it). About 4-5 months later (march 2017) I was installing longtube headers and had to take the oil filter off. Well when I did the new oil from October looked like Chocolate milk/Coffee. As soon as I saw that I changed it and put in another 5 1/2 quarts of conventional with a new filter and drove it for 50-60 miles, basically trying to flush the coolant oil mix out (if thats what it even was). I changed the oil for the second time after those 50-60 miles and the oil was a pretty dark black. So I changed it again yesterday and put UV dye in the coolant to see if it would show up in the oil. It hasn't yet. I'm sure most people would say that chocolate milk oil that I pulled out the second time around is coolant mixing with the oil but I'm wondering if it would be condensation from being started and not driven so many times over the course of the winter? Burned about 2/3 of a tank of gas without being driven at all and I know for every gallon of gas burned theres about that much from condensation that occurs. Any thoughts? considering doing a leak down test because I'm stressing out that my motor is going to be shot somehow.

SalG

Also no signs of white smoke, over heating, or coolant lose that I have noticed. Intake and gaskets were changed if that matters. Coolant was about 6 inches down in the radiator the other day but I looked today after the car cooled down for 15-20 min and it was at the top. When valve covers were off there was a little dirty water in them and they were cleaned/ have new gaskets.

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

the intake gaskets won't matter, the intake is all dry.

don't know your location, but if possible i would only top off radiator with clean water and not antifreeze until you verify if coolant is getting into the crankcase.

to do 25-30 times over the winter pulling the car outside of garage to idle then back in is the worst thing you can do. unless you are going to drive it, get engine hot to change oil then run for 10 minutes more to circulate then leave it shut off until spring when you will drive it regularly.

however the water got in to the crankcase, it can take a long time to burn out especially if your outside temp < 60°F.

maybe source a radiator pressure tester/gauge, and take overflow reservoir out of the picture and plug that hose. this way you can monitor coolant pressure keeping it under 20psi, and if it started at the radiator neck then goes lower after engine heat cycles then that seems pretty conclusive the cooling system is leaking somewhere.

SalG

Thanks, I've been told a leakdown test would be more effective than a radiator pressure tester but I suppose I'll try both. I'm just shocked that new oil can turn to chocolate milk if the car wasn't even being driven. That's why I was hoping it could have been condensation from sitting and being started so much (although that still isn't good). I just don't want to be stuck with a $1200 bill for head gaskets or worse.

pdxmotorhead

I was having a similar issue with a honda,, no chocolate milk oil but was losing coolant no smoke etc.. Tried compression and leakdown but no joy, then bought one of those cheap cameras from Harbor freight and looked in the cylinders, green liquid.. Pulled the head and it was a blown gasket from the jacket to the cylinder ,, Hondas use a MLS head gasket and the coating had failed, I think the engine had to be at full temp and then it was a steam leak.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

To put you at ease, I once parked a firebird formula for at least 16 months because I thought for sure I had a blown head gasket right after I had a brand new transmission installed. I didn't have anywhere to work on the car, but once I moved into a house I had a chance to look everything over I drained the oil expecting to be greeted by water or coolant first but found nothing but oil.

Long story short I was running the car with an open pcv system not connected to the intake and one day it vomited that frothy crap all over my engine bay. These cars do build moisture in the crank case after sitting for a long period of time. Car still runs great

So I reccomend changing the pcv valve and running an in line catch can

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You probably have a LOT of oil sludge and deposits inside all the nooks and crannys of the engine and all through the lines. That WILL NEVER come out with a normal oil change.

You need to chemical clean the crankcase. Go get 2 cans of GUNK engine flush. Hot engine. Pour them in while its idling. Idle for 10-15 with the 2 cans in the crankcase. NO REVVING, NO DRIVING. ((Make sure you have at least 4 qrts of oil still in there.))

Then drain it. Then, pour in 4 qrts of cheap "anything" oil so it can flow through and pick up and carry away the GUNK chemical. Idle it for about 5 minutes. Then drain it all out. It won't be clean oil coming out yet, IS MY GUESS. Then add another 4 qrts of cheap oil and run it for 5 minutes.

I would do that until that 4 qrts of oil comes out clean. When it does, you have truly flushed the engine of all the old ****.

Then pull the filter and put a new one on and fill it up with good oil.

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