2000 Camaro AC compressor issues
#1
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2000 Camaro AC compressor issues
Bought the car knowing the AC didn't work...
I noticed the compressor is not engaging.
1. Checked fuse...It was missing so I installed a new fuse. Nothing changed
2. Bought a AC pro recharge kit. Tried that... Gauge on the bottle was low. So added that till in the correct range. Still does not engage.
3. Tried finding the low pressure switch... Trying to force the compressor to engage. Can't find it. I read this year does not have a low pressure switch...? Is that correct?
Is there anything else I can do without purchasing a set of gauges to check the high pressure side? I'm thinking I'll just bring it in...If that's the case.
Thanks!
I noticed the compressor is not engaging.
1. Checked fuse...It was missing so I installed a new fuse. Nothing changed
2. Bought a AC pro recharge kit. Tried that... Gauge on the bottle was low. So added that till in the correct range. Still does not engage.
3. Tried finding the low pressure switch... Trying to force the compressor to engage. Can't find it. I read this year does not have a low pressure switch...? Is that correct?
Is there anything else I can do without purchasing a set of gauges to check the high pressure side? I'm thinking I'll just bring it in...If that's the case.
Thanks!
#5
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You can run battery directly to the clutch to test it. While you have the factory lead off you can use DVOM to test for power at the wire.
Edit: Try to limit the number of times you connect and disconnect it with the battery directly. The factory wiring has a Diode to deal with the 600 volt transient feedback spike that can harm electronics.
Edit: Try to limit the number of times you connect and disconnect it with the battery directly. The factory wiring has a Diode to deal with the 600 volt transient feedback spike that can harm electronics.
#6
The system uses a pressure transducer, it maybe bad. Could be other things too. I would suggest looking online for instructions to diagnose the system. I can tell you some basics......the systems works like this: The HVAC controller in the dash sends a REQUEST AC signal to the PCM, PCM checks a few things like the Pressure the transducer is reporting and few other things like RPM etc then if everything is in parameters it grounds the AC COMP relay circuit which sends power to the AC clutch.
I wouldn't risk connecting the battery directly to the clutch, you could however pull the AC relay and use a jumper to at lest confirm the compressor clutch is working.
Its possible your HVAC control is not sending a request, or the AC relay maybe bad or the pressure transducer is bad or you don't have the static pressure in the system right or I could go on and on sorry. Best you look online for a complete system diagnostic break down. The transducer are know for having issues, may want to start there. Good Luck
I wouldn't risk connecting the battery directly to the clutch, you could however pull the AC relay and use a jumper to at lest confirm the compressor clutch is working.
Its possible your HVAC control is not sending a request, or the AC relay maybe bad or the pressure transducer is bad or you don't have the static pressure in the system right or I could go on and on sorry. Best you look online for a complete system diagnostic break down. The transducer are know for having issues, may want to start there. Good Luck
Last edited by RockinWs6; 04-26-2017 at 07:21 AM.
#7
You can run battery directly to the clutch to test it. While you have the factory lead off you can use DVOM to test for power at the wire.
Edit: Try to limit the number of times you connect and disconnect it with the battery directly. The factory wiring has a Diode to deal with the 600 volt transient feedback spike that can harm electronics.
Edit: Try to limit the number of times you connect and disconnect it with the battery directly. The factory wiring has a Diode to deal with the 600 volt transient feedback spike that can harm electronics.
Last edited by RockinWs6; 04-26-2017 at 07:45 AM.
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I just throw 12 volt to compressors that are easy to reach or jump the relay like mentioned above for low mounted ones. That should help get you on track to know whats next.
#9
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Thanks! I will keep you guys posted on what I find out.
[QUqOTE=01ssreda4;19604545]I just throw 12 volt to compressors that are easy to reach or jump the relay like mentioned above for low mounted ones. That should help get you on track to know whats next.[/QUOTE]
[QUqOTE=01ssreda4;19604545]I just throw 12 volt to compressors that are easy to reach or jump the relay like mentioned above for low mounted ones. That should help get you on track to know whats next.[/QUOTE]
#11
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That Flyback diode is not there to protect electronics, the flyback diode is there to protect the CLUTCH WINDINGS. When the AC relay opens the field in the clutch winding collapses cause a huge reverse polarity power spike, since the relay is OPEN the power has no place to go(it can't go back to damage anything. BUT it can blow the clutch winding to pieces if it can't be used up. The FLYBACK DIODE allows the REVERSE POLARITY spike to flow back into the winding where it is dissipated.