Jeremy Pung

My Trans Am has been sitting for awhile and will not start. When I put the key into the ignition and turned it to run, the needles sway all the right and then drop all the way down. There appears to be a clicking sound coming from the dash and the security light stays solid for about 3 seconds and then goes out. The fog lamps blink as well when the key is turned to the 'on' position. Before I put in a new battery, I had the old one charged and all the warning lights would would flash on and off. When the new battery was installed, the headlamps rasied by themselves

I installed a new battery and the connections are clean.

I had the starter tested at Autozone and it cleared all their tests.

I put in a new starter and ignition relay.

My dad tried to jump the starter and was unable to do so.

I tried both sets of keys. They do not appear to be worn on the sensor. They both read .1 ohms.

Thoughts?

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

The bench tester for a starter does not do a load test. If jumping the solenoid does not cause the starter to crank the engine the easy answer is you have a bad starter. Assuming the battery is new, and the terminal bolts aren't cross threaded the starter should turn the engine over

The hard answer is the bottom end of the motor is seized. Put the car in neutral and try to turn the crank clockwise with a socket wrench on the nut on the harmonic balancer

Exeodus

iTrader: (1)

You may a grounding issue. Check all the grounding straps under the hood. There is a sticky in the Firebird section that lists all of there locations I believe. https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...-all-them.html

Jeremy Pung

Thank you for the help gentlemen. I will give both a try

JR422

The best way I know how to describe the sound is "thhhp." Mine did this a few years ago and I decided it was the VATS stuff, the little chip on the key. If the leads above don't get you anywhere, try cleaning out the ignition switch and your key. Jiggle that puppy around and see if you can get it to respond. Just like anything else, the metal on metal contact between the VATS chip and ignition cylinder can wear one of the points of contact out.

I got some resistors that matched the resistance of my key (it was like 1870 ohms), unplugged the orange wire that leads to the switch under the dash, and rigged in that series of resistors. Make sure you wire it so that the car knows it's getting the resistance it needs and your going around the switch. It worked great for me.

The resistance should be close to one of the ones listed here: http://www.vatskey.com/