Z28SLPCAMAROZ28

Hello all,

I searched and found a couple threads regarding turn signal issues, but they didn't quite have the same symptoms I have.

My drivers side turn signal will not flash. The front housing had leak and ended up causing two bulbs to burn out/burst. I have replaced both housings(drivers and passenger side) so this should no longer be a problem. The drivers side turn signals will light up and stay illuminated, but will not flash. The passenger side flashes fine. I then swapped the passenger and drivers side bulbs (front and back) to see if it was a bad bulb, but the passenger side will still flash, but the drivers side won't.

Unlocking/locking car: Both sides flash
Hazards: Right side and drivers side rear flashes, drivers side front does not turn on at all.

I'm guessing this is a bad socket? I saw link on how to replace them without splice, but the pictures were no longer hosted. Does anyone have info/pics/another link how to replace the socket without splicing?

What other issues could this be other than the socket?

Thanks!

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Yea. Replacing the socket with out splices is easy. There are two screw driver tabs on either side of the housing. Press in the insert tabs into the housing and pull the light grey (probably now charred) insert out. Once you do that, the wires will just fall out of the body. (The insert, if charred badly, may be destroyed doing this, which is not a problem.) The wires go in the new body in the same order as the old and the new insert just snaps right in.

There is probably corrosion in your insert. Hopefully it didn't go any further than that and the wires inside the connector body are clean. The other thread should show you part numbers if you want to order components separately from a place like Mouser, etc. vs. a repair socket.

Platinum WS6

iTrader: (6)

I had that same issue and replacing the socket corrected mine. These connectors are notorious for failure due to the heat the bulbs put out.

Z28SLPCAMAROZ28

So I got a new socket installed. Still no luck. Same symptoms as before. Any other ideas on what could possibly be wrong?

I read it could be my turn signal switch up in the steering wheel? How would I go about diagnosing that as the problem?

Thanks

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

If I remember correctly I had a similar issue and it was the turn signal switch wasn't aligned correctly, I just had to loosen a bolt and move it slightly upwards to correct the issue. If I remember right it would just barely click and not completely release the switch to engage the flasher

Z28SLPCAMAROZ28

How exactly do you go about accessing that bolt?

My turn signal has always been finicky. When I bought the car they had to install a new one. I haven't had any other 4th gens to compare it to, but on mine I have to pull the lever slightly towards me like I'm turning the brights on in order to use the turn signals. If I just push up or pull down, the lever clicks but doesn't engage the signals, and the arrows flash once. The turn signal in general is rather loud, and sounds very "plastic clicky". Are other 4th gens like this or was my switch installed improperly?

Thanks

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There are only four things the hazards and turn signals have in common that would cause the same failure in a front signal:
- The wiring
- The socket
- The bulb
- The DRL module





So the next likely culprit would be the DRL module. However; that's an expensive part so you may want to test with a voltage tester to confirm its bad first.

If you are good with electrical, you may be able to open up the module and fix it. (The problem is likely - if it's the module - a cracked solder joint or bad relay.)

pdxmotorhead

There is a connector on the column of most GM cars that connects everything in the column , right above it is the electrical part of the ignition switch as well.

I've had the connections in that big connector that carries all the signal and column stuff go wonky, pulling it apart and cleaning it fixed mine (Older impala. )

Cheers and good luck on the e-gremlin hunt.

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

It's a little fuzzy in my memory, I removed the entire column. It must have been under the lower kick panel on the column itself

chrysler kid

iTrader: (14)

Not sure if that's related to the socket not working, but I had to loosen and rotate this fucler on the column to get my switch alignment correct. I was having the same symptoms as you

Ted Larkin

Sounds like an electrical wiring issue. Check power and ground.

Z28SLPCAMAROZ28

How do I test the DRL module with a voltage tester?

Edit: I found a thread where someone said the way to test is to look for flashing power on the input, and then output on the light blue wire.

If I have flashing power on the light blue wire, which controls my turn signal, than my DRL module is good? Or is there anything else it could be on the module that I should test?

Ted Larkin

See if you can find 12 volts going into the DRL module.. or perhaps going out of the module. Check out the service manual for your car first for some troubleshooting steps..

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You do need to probe the LT BLUE wire with WHITE stripe (Input) and LT BLUE wire (Output) using the turn signals and using the hazards. With the combo of those two situations, you should be able to tell if your DRL module is good and/or if you have a problem in the turn signal switch.

With the turn signals on, I expect that you will either see a solid 12V or nothing at the Input and then nothing at the output. With the hazards on, I expect that you will either see a pulsing 12V or nothing at the Input and then a pulsing 12V or nothing at the output.

^ The answer should be in the results...



You should set your probe to DC to cover 12V, connect your red probe to the wire your testing and then your black probe to the black ground wire in the DRL module connector. There are a lot of other wires there. Below is another schematic of the module showing the additional wires (and the ground) that you should find in the connector(s): (You'll notice there are two LT BLUE wires - you want the thicker 12 gauge one, which is the 1.0 diameter. The .035 is a much thinner wire.)

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

There are two pairs of wires for the turn signals at the DRL module. They are light blue for the left side and dark blue for the right side. In each pair, the plain wire is the output to the front lamps while the white striped wire is the input from the turn signal switch and flasher. So yes, if you have flashing 12V power on the plain light blue wire with the left turn signal on then the DRL module is correctly sending to the front lamps. You should also have steady power on that wire when the signals are off, the ignition is on and the parking brake is disengaged (DRL mode).

If you have that then the problem is narrowed down to a break in the wiring between the DRL module and the lamp, the lamp socket, or the bulb. Checking for power on the blue wire at the lamp socket will tell you if the wire is the problem.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Except whatever problem is going on here isn't letting enough power through the thermal turn signal flasher to get it to flash - so in turn signal "mode", the circuit should show a solid 12V. In hazard "mode", the circuit should show a flashing 12V.

Between checking all the wires in both modes, the general area of the problem should be apparent.

Z28SLPCAMAROZ28

Alright, so I don't know if my tester is bad, or if I set it to the wrong setting(DC 20v), but it would never get a reading on the screen. However the following did happen.

Testing left signal, Red->LT BLU, Black ->Black : No reading, no change, Signal does not flash, IP cluster arrow solid.

Testing right signal, Red->DK BLU, Black ->Black : No reading, however it stopped the flashing.

Hazards

Red->LT BLU, Black ->Black : No reading, no change, no left signal

Red->DK BLU, Black ->Black : No reading, however it stopped the flashing.

I tested these by pulling the cover of the DRL, and touching the probes to the corresponding pin on the bottom of the board. The board looks fine, with no noticeable blown caps or fired resistors.

I'm thinking it might be a bad DRL connector. While it was hanging out of my dash, briefly the right side would not flash, similar to the left side, until I lifted the whole thing up a bit which adjusted the wires.

Are these DRL connectors glued in or something? lol I cannot seem to get the damn things unplugged.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

This is where a good old fashioned test light can be more useful than a multimeter. The bulb of the test light provides the current draw as a replacement for whatever may or may not be wrong with the front lamp. No need for interpretation - the test light will go on or not depending on power in the circuit plus the sharp probe tip can get through wire insulation to test circuits which would be difficult to access with the blunt tips of a multimeter.

Personally, I've been using a Power Probe III because it has a number of useful extra functions but it's expensive for a casual user so a $10 test light is a good thing to have in any toolbox.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

So, the right turn signal and the hazards are fine right up until the point where you probe the contacts and then this causes the flashing to stop?

Z28SLPCAMAROZ28

Yes

Probing the left side contacts does not affect the hazards. Which makes me think a wire somewhere is dead, as it's not shorting/grounding/whatever out the hazards flasher.