Half of my Header bolt holes are stripped!! HELP!
09-06-2018, 06:31 AM
#41
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This thread got me thinking a bit. There was a time when I would cringe at the thought of opening up an engine, it just felt like impending doom. Nowadays I whisk heads off, quick freshen, new lifters, reinstall and back to running in 4 hours or so unless I break exhaust bolts off which is happening more and more due to age of these things so that adds a couple of hours to the repair but I suppose I can see it from your perspective when I look back that now that the heads are on, you dont want to take them off. From my perspective now? It lines up more with my first couple posts in this thread. I accept these things and deal with them best I can.
Sort of like traffic, I used to get angry in traffic, now I simply accept that theres nothing I can do about it other than stay calm and not let it ruin my day. Anyways good luck with the repair, hope you get lucky
Sort of like traffic, I used to get angry in traffic, now I simply accept that theres nothing I can do about it other than stay calm and not let it ruin my day. Anyways good luck with the repair, hope you get lucky
09-06-2018, 06:33 AM
#42
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I'm not afraid go to tear down the engine. I just took apart mine. Cleaned it up and installed all new high end parts. So that's fine. I know what I'm doing. Probably more then alot of people out there. I'm glad that a few header bolt holes is the only bad thing about this build. Could have been alot worse for sure
09-06-2018, 07:48 AM
#43
OK...
I think I've cleaned up the garbage posted here yesterday. So how about we get this back on track???
Our site is about technical discussion. Had this been used as a compass, then this thread would be in a much better place.
The OP is looking for technical information. Chest beating on what is "right" is not helpful and is ignorant of conditions on the ground. Pulling an engine takes tools and resources; many of us have accumulated over a period time. Typing is a lot easier than turning a wrench.
I think I've cleaned up the garbage posted here yesterday. So how about we get this back on track???
Our site is about technical discussion. Had this been used as a compass, then this thread would be in a much better place.
The OP is looking for technical information. Chest beating on what is "right" is not helpful and is ignorant of conditions on the ground. Pulling an engine takes tools and resources; many of us have accumulated over a period time. Typing is a lot easier than turning a wrench.
09-06-2018, 08:00 AM
#44
I have put helicoils in with limited space before. You can drill the hole by hand. (Fortunately the block is Aluminum.) You just have to use a drill bit with a square end that can be put in a tap holder. Since you are just widening the hole, it's pretty easy. If you have even more limited clearance for a tap holder, you can get ratcheting ones.
Helicoil kits are expensive. So are the alternatives. So is making a repair that makes things worse! I suggest that you need to make the investment here to ensure that you don't have to go back in and do another repair in the future. Your time should be more valuable than a $70 Helicoil kit. (They know this and that's why the price is set the way it is!)
You asked why not just tap the holes larger - bad things can come from this:
- A larger bolt in one area will be stronger than the others. This is going to throw off your torques. (The torque spec on a larger bolt will not be the same.) If this is off, it could throw off your gasket sealing and the head may not perform correctly under pressure.
- You may have to drill other parts out larger.
- You will need multiple tools to do repairs in the future, which makes the whole thing less maintainable.
BTW - The Helicoil threads are stronger than the original threads. So no mechanical worries in using them at the original bolt size! Some products come with these things from the factory where the base metal is weak and needs stronger threads.
09-06-2018, 08:40 AM
#45
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I think this is accurate.
Is your problem a head bolt toward the back of the engine with the engine still in the car?
I have put helicoils in with limited space before. You can drill the hole by hand. (Fortunately the block is Aluminum.) You just have to use a drill bit with a square end that can be put in a tap holder. Since you are just widening the hole, it's pretty easy. If you have even more limited clearance for a tap holder, you can get ratcheting ones.
Helicoil kits are expensive. So are the alternatives. So is making a repair that makes things worse! I suggest that you need to make the investment here to ensure that you don't have to go back in and do another repair in the future. Your time should be more valuable than a $70 Helicoil kit. (They know this and that's why the price is set the way it is!)
You asked why not just tap the holes larger - bad things can come from this:
- A larger bolt in one area will be stronger than the others. This is going to throw off your torques. (The torque spec on a larger bolt will not be the same.) If this is off, it could throw off your gasket sealing and the head may not perform correctly under pressure.
- You may have to drill other parts out larger.
- You will need multiple tools to do repairs in the future, which makes the whole thing less maintainable.
BTW - The Helicoil threads are stronger than the original threads. So no mechanical worries in using them at the original bolt size! Some products come with these things from the factory where the base metal is weak and needs stronger threads.
Is your problem a head bolt toward the back of the engine with the engine still in the car?
I have put helicoils in with limited space before. You can drill the hole by hand. (Fortunately the block is Aluminum.) You just have to use a drill bit with a square end that can be put in a tap holder. Since you are just widening the hole, it's pretty easy. If you have even more limited clearance for a tap holder, you can get ratcheting ones.
Helicoil kits are expensive. So are the alternatives. So is making a repair that makes things worse! I suggest that you need to make the investment here to ensure that you don't have to go back in and do another repair in the future. Your time should be more valuable than a $70 Helicoil kit. (They know this and that's why the price is set the way it is!)
You asked why not just tap the holes larger - bad things can come from this:
- A larger bolt in one area will be stronger than the others. This is going to throw off your torques. (The torque spec on a larger bolt will not be the same.) If this is off, it could throw off your gasket sealing and the head may not perform correctly under pressure.
- You may have to drill other parts out larger.
- You will need multiple tools to do repairs in the future, which makes the whole thing less maintainable.
BTW - The Helicoil threads are stronger than the original threads. So no mechanical worries in using them at the original bolt size! Some products come with these things from the factory where the base metal is weak and needs stronger threads.
09-06-2018, 11:36 AM
#48
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09-06-2018, 01:55 PM
#49
OK...
I think I've cleaned up the garbage posted here yesterday. So how about we get this back on track???
Our site is about technical discussion. Had this been used as a compass, then this thread would be in a much better place.
The OP is looking for technical information. Chest beating on what is "right" is not helpful and is ignorant of conditions on the ground. Pulling an engine takes tools and resources; many of us have accumulated over a period time. Typing is a lot easier than turning a wrench.
I think I've cleaned up the garbage posted here yesterday. So how about we get this back on track???
Our site is about technical discussion. Had this been used as a compass, then this thread would be in a much better place.
The OP is looking for technical information. Chest beating on what is "right" is not helpful and is ignorant of conditions on the ground. Pulling an engine takes tools and resources; many of us have accumulated over a period time. Typing is a lot easier than turning a wrench.
09-06-2018, 06:39 PM
#50
I should add, just in case you don't know, stick a small screwdriver in the bolt hole to check how deep the hole is,
then put that measurement on your drill bit by wrapping black tape around drill bit so you don't go to deep,
DO NOT go any deeper than hole is, you will find coolant. trust me.
That Aluminum cuts quick so just be careful.
then put that measurement on your drill bit by wrapping black tape around drill bit so you don't go to deep,
DO NOT go any deeper than hole is, you will find coolant. trust me.
That Aluminum cuts quick so just be careful.
09-07-2018, 07:35 AM
#52
Drilling by hand will allow you do do a much more delicate operation. A power drill, particularly in a tight situation, could just tear everything up worse.
BTW - If these are the bolts for the exhaust manifold, be sure to put anti-seize on the bolts! If these are the bolts, this is what could have cause the old ones stripping out the hole in the first place.
09-07-2018, 07:49 AM
#53
Well how did your thread repair go?
As for sensitivity issues and whatnot? I all but packed it in completely with regards to internet useage for a full year and now I am barely involved and I feel great, just like my old self. The obvious speaks to itself that most people including myself previously, are becoming increasingly sensitive and angry which is directly correlated to screen time. Unplug a while, breath the fresh air and leave the phone at home. Lifes too short to be miserable
As for sensitivity issues and whatnot? I all but packed it in completely with regards to internet useage for a full year and now I am barely involved and I feel great, just like my old self. The obvious speaks to itself that most people including myself previously, are becoming increasingly sensitive and angry which is directly correlated to screen time. Unplug a while, breath the fresh air and leave the phone at home. Lifes too short to be miserable
09-07-2018, 07:56 AM
#54
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yeah I've got through a couple of the users that just want to argue and seems like they do it often. Love this site. I've bought, sold, and learned alot from it. But there are idiots everywhere....
09-07-2018, 01:43 PM
#56
I should add, just in case you don't know, stick a small screwdriver in the bolt hole to check how deep the hole is,
then put that measurement on your drill bit by wrapping black tape around drill bit so you don't go to deep,
DO NOT go any deeper than hole is, you will find coolant. trust me.
That Aluminum cuts quick so just be careful.
then put that measurement on your drill bit by wrapping black tape around drill bit so you don't go to deep,
DO NOT go any deeper than hole is, you will find coolant. trust me.
That Aluminum cuts quick so just be careful.
09-07-2018, 01:55 PM
#57
TECH Addict
Probably late to the part, but here my suggestion,,
Don't use a typical tap from Home Depot,,
go to a real tool shop that sells machine equipment and buy a "bottoming tap" (About 12 dollars for a single tap)
A bottoming tap assumes some threads exist, and will cut threads very very close to the bottom of the hole.
If your trying to repair a damaged hole it should thread in to whatever is left and follow it to the bottom,
if your drilling then tapping, tap 1/2 way with a standard tap, then switch to the bottoming tap.
When tapping AL use real AL tapping lube as well, oil will eff-up the cut quality. Al needs very thin lube..
Don't try and run it all the way in in one pass, 2 turns, back out, flush, clean, relube, repeat.
If you have a small airport nearby,, buy some Iconel M10 studs for a airplane exhaust, it expands and
contracts more similar to the aluminum and won't gall/seize into the heads. And the matching nuts won't
rust to the studs as bad.. (Warning they are not cheap,,
)
Don't use a typical tap from Home Depot,,
go to a real tool shop that sells machine equipment and buy a "bottoming tap" (About 12 dollars for a single tap)
A bottoming tap assumes some threads exist, and will cut threads very very close to the bottom of the hole.
If your trying to repair a damaged hole it should thread in to whatever is left and follow it to the bottom,
if your drilling then tapping, tap 1/2 way with a standard tap, then switch to the bottoming tap.
When tapping AL use real AL tapping lube as well, oil will eff-up the cut quality. Al needs very thin lube..
Don't try and run it all the way in in one pass, 2 turns, back out, flush, clean, relube, repeat.
If you have a small airport nearby,, buy some Iconel M10 studs for a airplane exhaust, it expands and
contracts more similar to the aluminum and won't gall/seize into the heads. And the matching nuts won't
rust to the studs as bad.. (Warning they are not cheap,,
)
09-10-2018, 02:38 PM
#59
I agree with the thread chaser. I bought a set of Summit brand ones last year that are really nice and inexpensive.
I also think the OP should buy s stud kit, can be found on ebay cheap, which makes hanging the headers way easier. Dunno why everyone doesn't. Seems like a no brainer, but I'm not an expert.
I also think the OP should buy s stud kit, can be found on ebay cheap, which makes hanging the headers way easier. Dunno why everyone doesn't. Seems like a no brainer, but I'm not an expert.
09-15-2018, 10:04 AM
#60
Well, how did the repair progress? I'm betting in car was a disaster, hope I'm wrong but lets see if Dylan the OP will clear it up for us and tell the story. A lot of effort put forth in here while you were capslock calling for HELP! Least you could do is let us know as well as aide future searchers of this problem so they may see how this worked out for you