Instrument Cluster fuse blown - disables car
#1
Instrument Cluster fuse blown - disables car
I've been having in issue for a few months with the fuse to my instrument cluster popping pretty frequently. I've noticed it only happens at speeds around 110-120 mph. When the fuse blows, the odometer shuts off, tach drops to zero, voltmeter drops to zero, and the speedometer freezes at the last recorded speed, cruise control becomes disabled. The car still runs, radio and windows still work.
After a while, it seems to stop receiving power from the alternator and I'm running strictly on battery power. When I get to my destination and shut the car off, it won't restart. No crank whatsoever. If I replaced the blown 10 amp fuse, it starts right back up.
My best guess so far is that there is some sort of speed sensor wire coming from the transmission that arcs out underneath the car due to airflow at high speeds. That would seem to be the only explanation as to why it happens only at speeds over 100mph and not just cruising around town.
I'm still perplexed as to why the instrument gauge fuse would have any bearing on the starter or alternator though???
I've tested the battery and everything reads fine. I've replaced the alternator just two weeks ago with a truck alternator and have consistent voltage from that as well.
After a while, it seems to stop receiving power from the alternator and I'm running strictly on battery power. When I get to my destination and shut the car off, it won't restart. No crank whatsoever. If I replaced the blown 10 amp fuse, it starts right back up.
My best guess so far is that there is some sort of speed sensor wire coming from the transmission that arcs out underneath the car due to airflow at high speeds. That would seem to be the only explanation as to why it happens only at speeds over 100mph and not just cruising around town.
I'm still perplexed as to why the instrument gauge fuse would have any bearing on the starter or alternator though???
I've tested the battery and everything reads fine. I've replaced the alternator just two weeks ago with a truck alternator and have consistent voltage from that as well.
#2
No one has any ideas??? I've seen a few other threads with people who have had almost identical issues, but they are from a few years ago and no one ever seemed to post a resolution.