Cruise control not working
#1
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Cruise control not working
I've been without cruise control for a few years now ... and kind of miss it since most of my driving is on the highway. When it started going out, shock from going over bumps, railroad tracks ....etc. ... .would kill it. Initally I thought it to be the multi-function lever so I replaced it. It was very intermittent. I've ohmed out the multifuntion lever, brake switch, 3rd brake light and verified everything good at the connector below the dash ... but I have not followed it through to the the cruise module connector.
Just curious if it sounds like the module ... or even a cold solder joint there. I don't want to just assume that it's the module and replace it .... I'm not a big fan of the shotgun approach to troubleshooting.... but it may be what I have to do.
Any help is appreciated.
Just curious if it sounds like the module ... or even a cold solder joint there. I don't want to just assume that it's the module and replace it .... I'm not a big fan of the shotgun approach to troubleshooting.... but it may be what I have to do.
Any help is appreciated.
#3
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
No. As you know that path provides for a ground through the lamp ...... so no. Have you seen where the module fails like I've described? Works until you drive across railroad tracks... bumps.... for example. That screams connection (loose solder joint) / open to me.
#4
Ungrounded Moderator
iTrader: (4)
I haven't heard of solder problems in the cruise module specifically but there are plenty of other modules where that has been a problem - the BCM being the best known. I have heard of intermittent cruise problems caused by the cable binding. The cable can be replaced separately so that might be something worth investigating.
#5
TECH Resident
There's been at least 2 bulbs I've had go bad but still work. The filament was broken but the broken ends would touch and light up. When going over a bump the filament ends would separate and the bulb would go out. Visually the bulb looked fine until I shook it lightly and saw the ends start dancing. In a system that relies on bulbs and soldering I'd check every thing with a fine tooth comb
#6
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
I haven't heard of solder problems in the cruise module specifically but there are plenty of other modules where that has been a problem - the BCM being the best known. I have heard of intermittent cruise problems caused by the cable binding. The cable can be replaced separately so that might be something worth investigating.
#7
There is a switch on the brake pedal and another on clutch pedal if you have a stick. Either of these could break loose in the clip or just need adjustment for correct contact. It's can be hacked with some zip ties if needed.
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#8
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Yeah .. this is an auto .. and yes I ohmed that out and it's good.
#9
I haven't heard of solder problems in the cruise module specifically but there are plenty of other modules where that has been a problem - the BCM being the best known. I have heard of intermittent cruise problems caused by the cable binding. The cable can be replaced separately so that might be something worth investigating.
#10
Ungrounded Moderator
iTrader: (4)
The cable goes from the cruise control module (mounted to the left frame rail in front of the wheel well) to the throttle linkage. When cruise is set, the module moves the cable back and forth to set the throttle opening. If the cable binds, you will end up with variations in speed or unexpected cruise shutoff. If it's binding badly enough, you won't be able to set the cruise speed.
There are many possible causes of cruise control problems and this is just one of them but it shouldn't be overlooked if testing fails to find another cause.
There are many possible causes of cruise control problems and this is just one of them but it shouldn't be overlooked if testing fails to find another cause.