car won't stay running
 

i have no idea what is wrong...i was driving today and car just cut-off...now the car will not idle without gas...and even then it is jumping around like crazy...help me out...it is really bothering me since it cut-off every time i pushed in the clutch (like during turns :eek2:) i know i need a tune but it has never done this before

Check all your grounds first...especially check your connections at the battery and alternator. Make sure everything is tight. Check all your weatherpack connectors as well, sometimes if you worked on something and took them apart then not snapped them together tight, they will work loose. Do you have enough fuel? How long since you changed fuel filter, plugs, wires, etc?

Did you changed anything recently or add anything to the car? Mods? Check your oil level too.

ok i just changed the oil pump and timing chain about three weeks ago...put in new coolant and oil...checked oil 2 days ago and it was full...plugs and wires were changed about 4 months ago (i think) i just bought the car recently...and i didn't change the plugs or wires...but they are taylor wires and ngk plugs...i just filled the car with gas two days ago...93 octane...the car is running like it did when i forgot to reconnect the maf sensor but i reset the pcm (pull pcm batt, pcm ign fuses while key turned on) this was about 2 weeks ago...i also just removed an amp but i know i tightened the battery cables back up...i'll go over everything again but i don't think it is any of the above...the fuel filter is the only thing i cannot give an answer on

Are you getting any SES lights? Does this problem change from the car being hot or cold... or is it acting up from the time you fire it up?

Bring it by the shop and let us take a look at it. It may be something simple.

well i'm getting the ses light on multiple things...!egr, !air, no cats, and whatever else so i don't know...i can'l comment hot or cold as it has never done this before...i'll check the maf connection cause it runs EXACTLY like it did when it was not connected...your shop is 2+hours away so i can't just bring it by...i'll be there next week though for the tune...

Try all those connections first, it sounds like you've been working on it. Most times, it is the most stupid and simple thing.

A faulty MAF connection came to mind when I first read your post, but it seems like you already covered that. Good luck! I don't know what this could be.

well i took it to get scanned...it shows that the maf is screwed up somehow...i don't know what the deal is with that...i guess i'll borrow my neighbors maf and see if that solves the problem....i just got off the phone with dino at revx and he said it may also be the rear o2 sensors since i don't have cats...it's progresivly getting worse...when i am driving it is almost like it is out of gas (i KNOW this is not the case) it will surge cut power then keeps doing that in cycle it will also shutter and shake...this is really starting to make me mad...i guess i might end up having to tow it to revx and get the tune and see what else is screwed up...any more suggestions guys??

EDIT: i forgot to mention i have NO reverse...the lock-out is stuck i guess...anyway to get my reverse back??

MAF and 02's...my Bu-hogs act the same way when mine are messed up. Replace the 02's first and see what happens. They are cheap and fairly easy to replace.

why should i replace o2's when i don't even have cats...

About your reverse. Pull the ENG SEN fuse from under the hood and check it. If it's blown then there's your problem. If you don't have another fuse just use your horn fuse as a temp.

what would cause the maf to go bad...and would me not having any cats and no 02 sims...would it cause it to run poorly...

i guess it looks like i'll be getting a new maf...slp 85mm any good?? if i have to get new might as well get bigger

O2's are an input signal to your ECM, PCU, ECU...whatever it's called these days.

MAF's go bad over time. Time, temp., dirt, oil, age and wear, vibration...the same reasons anything goes bad.

there has been a lot of vibration with a stock motor mounts and an untuned tsp231/237 with heads and true duals

!rear o2 sensors wont cause the car to run poorly even w/o sims. i ran with all my !egr, !air, !rear o2 codes for 6 months w/o incident.

what MAF code are you getting?

i don't remember...i had so many codes...i'll try to remember off the top of my head...it was air, egr, 2 o2 codes, random missfires, reverse lock-out, skip shift, the maf code, i think that was it there might have been one or two more...they guy that was scanning it basically said my maf was done...but as far as his credibilty in knowing what was going on i don't know how good he is

have you tried resetting the PCM yet?

yes...i put the key in turned it to on took pcm batt and pcm ign fuses out ...let it sit for about 5 minutes...turned key off, took key out, put fuses back in and cranked car...still idles terrible...i've tried disconnecting the battery for about 5 minutes as well...should i try cranking car with maf sensor plug pulled...and see if it changes how it idles...
also out of nowhere the reverse is locked out...what would cause that

Just get a stock MAF replacement. Don't bother with an 85mm with the ls6 intake.