Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

My car randomly started throwing codes this morning. It hasn't been sitting in direct heat nor in extreme cold. It's throwin 2 codes of 155 (Bank 2 Sensor 1 Malfunction), and 1 code of 135 (Bank 1 Sensor 1 Malfunction). Can someone direct me to a website to look these exact codes up or point me in the right direction of a repair or what the cause may be?

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Front o2 sensors

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

Yeah I've had problems with my 02 sensors before and they just randomly stop throwing the code. Will this most likely happen? Why does it randomly throw the code and then randomly stop?

2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

Its the sensor heaters. Like you said yesterday was a fairly cold day here and first of the year, maybe that is it. If so its only gonna get worse. You moght try the Vette Boschs, or upgrade one see if it gets rid off on of the codes and if it does replace both. Since youve got the longtubes and the sensor is further away from the stream, it would cure insufficient switching too (if youve ever gotten it)

2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

Sensed Parameter
(B2S1) HEATED
OXYGEN SENSOR
HEATER CIRCUIT

Fault Code
P0155

Descriiption
Detects a malfunctioning
HO2S heater circuit by
comparing time to HO2S
activity to a calibrated
threshold.

Malfunction Criteria and Threshold Values
Oxygen sensor time to activity
exceeds a lookup table value as a
function of average flow rate.

Secondary Parameters and Enable Conditions
Cold Start (IAT & ECT <50 C and less than 8
degrees difference)
Valid mid bias calculated
18 v > System Voltage >10 v.
No AIR, EGR, Catalyst diagnostic active
No Throttle, MAT, Camel Mode, Injector, EST
Control, Coolant, Crank Sensor, Knock Sensor or
Air Flow Faults active
Once per cold start trip.

MIL Illumination Type
B

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

any other opinions?

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

You've already got your solution above, you're getting heater circuit malfunction codes from your front o2's. This is very common with longtubes because the sensor is further downstream in the exhaust, compounded by the fact that steel tubes don't retain heat as well as cast iron manifolds and the sensor just can't stay hot (cooler weather will also compound the problem). Your options are to ignore the codes (even turn the ses light off for that code w/tuning software) or upgrade to bosch 13111 (rear C5 sensors) that have a stronger heat circuit. The cheapest I've found the 13111's is $69 from autozone.....I just replaced mine last week.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

just reading this post where did you find some o2's for $69 you mean each right??

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Yep, bosch 13111 o2's from autozone----$69 each.

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

FYI the light turned off after about 20 miles of being driven. I guess everything is A-okay?

staringback05

iTrader: (8)

you guess....

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

? Well instead of laughing would you care to share some insight?

jmm98LS1

iTrader: (28)

Read my reply in post #7. You will keep getting intermitant heater circuit codes unless you do something about it (tuning or replace sensors with vette rears). This is totally normal with longtubes.

Brian2006

iTrader: (42)

Yeah I saw that jimm and I appreciate your help. But Like I said the light turned off from driving about 20 miles. So therefore it's not throwing the code anymore.

2KThunder

iTrader: (4)

It turned off because it warmed up

Abe99

iTrader: (2)

The heaters are not needed when the car is warm. So thats why the code went away.
Gearchatter.com will define trouble codes and give ideas on how to fix them.