moonshine_mike

iTrader: (1)

My car has a clunk I think the u-joints are bad, just wondering what is the easiest way to get the d-shaft out and then the universal joints.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

As for DS, just get the rear jacked up, leave it in Neutral and take off the 4 bolts that attach it to the rear, once they are off, use a screw driver and pry off the U-joint from the yoke. Lower and pull out.

Personally get another DS, there are alot of LS1 DS for sale, cheap.

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

If the driveshaft still has the stock ujoints in it you will have to drill out the impregnated plastic that holds them in.

soulless

iTrader: (3)

Aren't you supposed to mark how the DS is bolted in?

I've been looking at doing this also. Any right-ups? Who makes a quality replacement?

BUMP for more info.

01WS6er

iTrader: (2)

The easiest way to check the u-joint is to grab the DS by the joint and see it it moves in any direction. If you have a steel DS, than you can use a torch to heat it up and knock out the joint, easiest way. If aluminum than I would not put heat on it.

2001NBMZ28

Yeah I'd mark it so you put it back in the same orientation. Easiest way to replace U-joints is to bring the DS to a shop and have them do it. Make sure that's what's causing your clunk first...

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I have owned MANY RWD cars from all different years, generations, makes and models. Never marked it, never an issue. I personally wouldnt bother with just the u-joint if your lookin to upgrade. I used Denny's ]

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/

They make a soild upgrade Aluminum DS, I personally have the N2o ready steel 3" DS. Never an issue either.

moonshine_mike

iTrader: (1)

I got the driveshaft out and replaced the u-joints, pretty sure it fixed the problem. Just took a ride and everything is fine. The hardest part in my opinion was getteing the driveshaft out after I got it loose, because it wouldn't fit inbetween the torque arm and exhaust. So I put a ratchet strap on the intermediate pipe and pulled it over about an inch or two and it fell right out. Mine has the factory aluminum driveshaft and I tried just driling the plastic out and they wouldn't budge, so heated it up and the plastic oozed right out. It took about 10 minutes to get it hot enough, then I put them in a vise with sockets on both sides and the pushed right out. I got my replacements from Napa, precision somethings, they are made by Federal Mogul and I honestly feel good about buying my parts at Napa because the guys there know whats going on unlike some of the idiots at the Zone or Advanced. I marked the shaft so they went back in on the same ends and it all went together well and works just fine.

Thanks for your help

Gun5

iTrader: (37)

your suppose to though because on reinstallation it can cause a vibration then youll end up rotating it another 180' just something to do so u save time not having to go back

Strokinit383

iTrader: (22)

The driveshaft is zero balanced. It doesnt matter how it goes in as long as the splines line up and the rear lines up. If you dont belive me take your ds out and rotate it around.

PAGregSS

iTrader: (10)

Hopefully your driveshaft doesn't break now from heating it up. Heating the aluminum like that will make it brittle. That happened to a friend of mine. Low mileage shaft. They heated it to get the u-joint out. A few hundred miles later the end of the driveshaft broke into 3 pieces.