Car won't start on the first try
 

Hey guys, it's me again.
I pulled up the original thread on this problem and I didn't see it come up as a "new post" so here's the link.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...33#post7279233

This is what the update is.

I'm back with the same problem. If there's anyone from here that was at Kennedale on Sunday June 3rd and whitnessed the problem, you know what i'm talking about.
There's plenty of fuel pressure, no misfires and no codes (a code reader was hooked up while the car wasn't starting). The aftermarket alarm's "kill-start" was disengaged.
Any other suggestions? My husband wants to get rid of it and in clear conscience I can't, not with this problem. Plus I love it because it used to be mine before it was his.

Would changing out the plugs again make a difference? I'm desperately asking for your help. Thanks.
Lorena

I know you said you replaced it. But the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) can still cause this even though you may not have an SES light showing. Mine never showed an SES light and it was bad where my car would turn over and not start, then I would stop cranking it and try again and bang, a perfect start. The CPS can cause your fuel to NOT work, than the next time it may be ligned up right and everything will work and it'll start.

Even if you have loose wires the car will start and run on less than 8 cylinders, so thats not the problem. It would start right up and run crappy if you took 2 plug wires completely off the engine.

Put another CPS in.


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We'll try it. We'll then let you know how it goes.

A bad or failing CPS will not always pop the SES light on. Mine didn't, but a scan showed it was failed. I changed it and everything was fine.

Have you done a scan of the PCM. The SES lights on our cars are almost idiot lights, they simply do not work for alot of things. But the scan will show it.


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The orginal PCM had been tested and the new one it was replaced with was too. The last scan done via OBDII was almost 4 weeks ago and before that it had been maybe 3 weeks earlier and nothing.

The only time there was ever a code was when the CPS was replaced and I think there was some code related to the A.I.R. pump.

I'm not sure how your kill start works or if you are disengaging it immediately before starting, but I had a similar problem with a battery kill anti-theft device. The device turns the battery on and off and my car has a hood lock.. Anyway, after a night of having the battery off the car would take 2 or 3 starts before finally turning over. The solution turned out to be simply turning the ignition one notch so that all the system lights etc come on and allowing the battery gauge to rise up to a stop before starting (usually to the top of the "warning" zone).

If your starter kill cuts the battery off from the rest of the vehicle when engaged; allowing the battery gauge to rise before attempting a start after disengaging the starter kill may be your solution.

That's simple enough to try. I don't think the alarm turns off/on the battery but it wouldn't hurt to try. Thanks

Yeah I guess the alarm would need the battery huh? :)