Brake rotor removal
11-27-2007, 12:13 AM
#2
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Eat your Wheaties and get a bigger hammer. Trust me, I feel your pain. Seems like every time I do brakes the fockers won't budge but they always do eventually with a bigger hammer and the more pissed off I get.
11-27-2007, 09:53 AM
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you must of not unbolted everything it shouldnt be that hard to pull it off once you removed the caliper. you said its a 81? maybe rust is giving you a problem? good luck
11-27-2007, 03:27 PM
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Before you hit it too hard and break or bend somethinh else like your axle or wheel bearings, soak tel hell out of it front and back with WD-40. Tap the rotor all around in a circle front and back while you are spraying to help the WD-40 get between the rotor and the wheel hub. You might have to let it sit 15 minutes and do it a second time but it should work. It did for me.
John.
John.
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11-27-2007, 03:37 PM
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Assuming you have the e-brake off, all the brake parts off, and it's just the rotor on the hub/studs, rust must have really taken hold!
I have a 3lb and a 4lb hammer for such occasions. You may need to shorten the handle some for tight areas. Start with taps and work your way up to major blows. Take your time, as each tap may be the one to break the rotor loose. After a while, though, call the rotor replaceable and commence to whackin'.
An important consideration is to use a piece of wood between the rotor and the hammer. It keeps the rotor usable until you really have to call the rotor dead and do what you gotta do to get it off.
Start tapping on the back on each side, then top/bottom. Repeat. Repeat some more.
If required alternate side/side and top/bottom with a star pattern like you tighten lug nuts.
Repeat the above while escalating the strength of the blows.
Again.
Somewhere in there the dang thing should have broken loose.
Once it's off, I'd use a powered wire wheel on the back of the rotor (if you're reusing it) and on the hub. I put a bit of anti-sieze on mating surfaces to keep the rust at bay.
In fact, rust and corrosion building up between rotor and hub or rotor and wheel are usually the cause of what most folks regard as warped rotors. Clean those surfaces off before you spend $$ on new rotors and see what happens.
I have a 3lb and a 4lb hammer for such occasions. You may need to shorten the handle some for tight areas. Start with taps and work your way up to major blows. Take your time, as each tap may be the one to break the rotor loose. After a while, though, call the rotor replaceable and commence to whackin'.
An important consideration is to use a piece of wood between the rotor and the hammer. It keeps the rotor usable until you really have to call the rotor dead and do what you gotta do to get it off.
Start tapping on the back on each side, then top/bottom. Repeat. Repeat some more.
If required alternate side/side and top/bottom with a star pattern like you tighten lug nuts.
Repeat the above while escalating the strength of the blows.
Again.
Somewhere in there the dang thing should have broken loose.
Once it's off, I'd use a powered wire wheel on the back of the rotor (if you're reusing it) and on the hub. I put a bit of anti-sieze on mating surfaces to keep the rust at bay.
In fact, rust and corrosion building up between rotor and hub or rotor and wheel are usually the cause of what most folks regard as warped rotors. Clean those surfaces off before you spend $$ on new rotors and see what happens.
