01TransAmChick

this morning i went to go start my WS6 to go to school, i got in the car, dome lights on, everything fine and normal, put the key in, get situated, the cars beeping telling me the keys in the ignition, but not started. then i go to crank her over, and as soon as i turn the key, it dies. just completely died, so i tried again...nothing. absolutely nothing. so i got a ride. then after work, i went out a bought and brand new optima red top for her and as i was taking out the old ac delco, i discovered it was a loose ground on the battery...but i wanted to get the piece of crap out of there anyways and still put the optima in. i then turned the car on (cranked a few times, then fired right up) she was idling high (around 1000 rpm, ussually idles around 700-800rpm) so i let the car warm up to about 180* and the idle slowly drops back to normal...once i let the car warm up to 210* i went to shift into reverse and slowly back out of my parking spot. then BAM, car stalls, lights dim out, and dies. so i crank it back over, and attempt to back up another few feet. same thing, again! so i manage to pull it back into its spot and call it a night. my belt has a very very faint squeek, the car has a 101,000 miles on it...so im pretty sure its a bad alternator.

but why wouldn't it stall and die at idle, but only when i go to ease it in reverse? its not like i did a reverse donut out of the parking spot or anything...

this is so frustrating...between 6 hours of school and 8 hours of work every day lately...

any ideas? tips? hints? thanks!

01TransAmChick

now im thinking its possibly the tps....i know the car is throwing a code for the tps and coolant fan #2, but my dealership told me it was b/c of the "Electrical nightmare" that my car was with the wiring harness under the hood melting and stuff...

ugh, i hate chasing **** in circles...

Z28Fistergod

iTrader: (10)

Start your car again and see what the voltage is, you should be getting around 14 volts. When my alternator went out I got around 11 volts and my "check gauges" light popped on. The reason the car was idleing so high is because the memory of the PCM was cleared when you disconnected the battery, it takes a little while for the PCM to "re-learn" the fuel curves and such, nothing to worry about there. I am no expert on the subject but it seems logical that a bad TPS could cause your engine to stall if you think about what is happening. You open the throttle to let more air in the engine but the PCM doesn't know this because your TPS is reading 0%, so your engine stalls because your PCM doesn't add any fuel. That seems like a good place to start. Keep in mind that it might not neccessarily be a bad sensor, it doesn't seem like the type of thing to just randomly break. I would check the wiring first, especially since you said that it was a nightmare. Get that wiring cleaned up to fix this and avoid any future problems!

01TransAmChick

car ran and drove fine to and from school. still seems underpowered. we'll see what a good tune up does and yea, im in dire need of getting this wiring mess cleaned up. im trying to hold out for another week until i go home and have my mechanic there look at it (im currently stranded in cleveland ohio for school)

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

Ya your TPS could cause this problem. The car doesn't know how much fuel to add or take and thats prob why all this is happening.