LS1LVERBULLET

Here's the problem: Dash lights, fog lamps, running lights, sidemarkers, and tail lights do not go on with the switch. Brake lights are not working either (tried brakes with the engine off, not sure if it makes a difference).

I have tested all fuses under 40, and visually inspected the 40's and 50's under the hood. My tester isn't big enough for the 40's and 50's. Everything checks out there. I also pulled out the headlight switch and did a quick visual inspection of it,and the back of the fuse box,to see if anything was obviously out of place, nothing to note there.

All lights flash with the key fob.

The next place I would turn is to the headlight switch itself, but I wanted to hear what you guys think before I write the check. I know I saw a couple of other things that can do this while searching, but if anyone knows a way to check the headlight switch, or any of the other related parts, that would help. I just don't want to start spending blindly. Any ideas/input wil be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

-Luke

LS1LVERBULLET

On second thought, unless I'm missing something, the the headlight switch being broken doesn't really explain the brake lights not working.

haacer

iTrader: (1)

I don't have a schematic handy, but the only switch the the brake light may be affected by is the brake light switch (located on above the pedal). It sounds like you may have more than one problem.

I'm not sure how you're testing the fuses, but let me recommend a test light. You can buy them for around $5 and they'll show if you have power on both sides of a fuse. Recheck fuses and go from there, visual inspection may not catch everything.

LS1LVERBULLET

I tested the fuses with a light, all execpt for the big ones under the hood, but the usual suspects (TAIL LPS and IP DIMMER) are definitely good.

Whitebird00 told me how to check the headlight switch, and it is indeed bad, but that doesn't explain the brake lights. You don't by chance know how to check that one do you?

And thanks for the reply.

haacer

iTrader: (1)

The brake light circuit is relatively simple. You can check out part of the schematic here if it helps -- http://shbox.com/1/exterior_lights.htm

Basically, the wire going to the the brake switch is always hot, check this first. Again, the brake light switch is located on the pedal assembly. You'll find that there is a terminal where the power comes in on the switch and one where it goes out. By holding your test light on the power out terminal, you can test the operation of the switch as you press it down and make sure the light comes on.

Another common sense check before you go crawling all over your car... If you look at the schematic, you'll see that the third brake light runs directly off the brake switch. If this was working before and isn't working now, it's almost certainly the switch.

If you're working with the three colored taillights found after 1998, you can stop here. Power for the brake lights doesn't run through the turn signal switch. For prior to 1998, two colored tailights, you'll have to check the turn signal switch.

If everything is good up to the brake switch, check the turn signal switch. Make sure power is going in on the Light Blue and coming out on Dark Green and Yellow while you step on the brake pedal. Those wires go to the left and right brake light bulbs.


Good luck.

LS1LVERBULLET

Haacer, thanks for the reply and the schematic. I checked the orange-always hot, and it's not getting power. Blinkers work but hazards do not, which makes sense according to your schematic. Fuse is definitely good, I double and triple checked. Do you happen to have a schematic for the other side of the fuse block, or possibly know where the connecting wire physically runs on the other side of the firewall? Thanks again.

-Luke

haacer

iTrader: (1)

Per my schematic, power goes directly from the fuse to the switch. The fuse box and the switch are relatively close, so I'd guess you can trace it out all the way. You said that you'd already removed the fuse box to check connections. I would check power on the back of the fuse box. I've seen a bad connection from the fusebox terminal to the wire before. It should be orange all the way from what I see.

Just to make sure we're on the same page... You are checking the #6 fuse on the instrument panel fuse box right?

Also, it shouldn't make a huge amount of difference, but what year is your car? I have schematics for other years.

LS1LVERBULLET

The car is a '99 Formula.

I think you may have misunderstood what I was asking for. I'm looking for a schematic from the power source (battery or other junction) to the fuse block. I was talking with Whietbird00 and he found a common link between the exterior lights and the brake lights in the #2 box under the hood; it's the I/P 2 40-amp fuse. I checked that one last night and it's good. With that being the common point for the two systems and the fuse block under the dash being the split, that makes me think the problem most is likely on the battery side of the block.

To asnwer your question about which fuse... I've double and triple checked all of them, and trust me, every time I check them I'm hoping and praying that I missed it the first four times, I'd love it if that was the problem.

Fuse box terminals are a good place to start looking for a short, thanks. I'm going to start poking around for broken/damaged wires at this point. If you can think of anything I'm missing, or any additional information that might help let me know.

Thanks again Haacer.

haacer

iTrader: (1)

My mistake... I'm not sure how much more help I can be.



AllData isn't cooperating. It won't give me a location for splice 212. However, the zoning system for splices gives 200-299 as being the in the instrument panel area. The other low 200s seem to be around the fusebox area.... Of course, these splices are made inline in the harness, so you're basically going to have to trace out the wire.

So I can tell you that the wire in question is a red wire. If your courtesy lights and radio are still working, I'd have my money on a bad splice. That splice will be located somewhere inline on the harness between the fuse box and connector 200D, pictured below. Location for connector 200D: Part of I/P harness, between LH kick panel and steering column.



You hadn't mentioned courtesy lights or radio not working in your previous posts, but as you can see from the schematic, everything comes off of a fusible link. If you get that far....



Hope this helps... Screenshots are a pain. Next time you can just come look over my shoulder.

LS1LVERBULLET

FIXED!! I would have posted up sooner, but the last few days really got away from me. Like I said, I started poking around looking a short. I checked all the wires and junctions under the dash, and then moved to the fuse block under the hood. After cutting about 6 or 8 inches into the harness I found the short, cut it out and replaced it. The harness was a little bit open, but all of the other wires aside from a little dirt and dust, were fine

HUGE THANKS to Haacer and Whitebird00!!!!

For anyone who comes across this in a search, here's the link to the other thread that helped me find and fix the problem:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wiring-stereo-electronics/903168-lights-problem-tail-lps-ip-dimmer-fuses-good-where-do-i-go-next.html