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gauge cluster light burnt out

Old 05-12-2008, 01:05 AM
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Default gauge cluster light burnt out

Got in the car tonight and the gauge cluster wont light up. Could it be a fuse? Is probably the bulb, but am not sure how to replace it. Any guides?
Old 05-12-2008, 03:34 AM
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Is the entire guage out? Because there's a bunch of bulbs in there, if I remember right there's about 8 of them or so. If just one spot is dark than its probably just a bulb, but if the entiore thing is out you have a different problem.

Taking the cluster out is pretty easy, takes about 10-15 minutes.
Old 05-12-2008, 11:04 AM
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Entire cluster is out. maybe a fuse?
Old 05-12-2008, 12:41 PM
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That sounds like it's almost certainly a fuse or some other electrical device. Start by checking your fuses and making sure the dimmer switch rheostat is still good. That means adjusting the dimmer from high to low and making sure that other interior lights adjust accordingly.
Old 05-12-2008, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by haacer
That sounds like it's almost certainly a fuse or some other electrical device. Start by checking your fuses and making sure the dimmer switch rheostat is still good. That means adjusting the dimmer from high to low and making sure that other interior lights adjust accordingly.
That is the first thing i did was check the adjuting dimmer. It turns on the interior light when I adjust it all the way it up.
Old 05-13-2008, 01:11 AM
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That's great... But do the lights that are normally on with the dash (power window, radio, climate control) dim with the rheostat or do they work at all?
Old 05-13-2008, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by haacer
That's great... But do the lights that are normally on with the dash (power window, radio, climate control) dim with the rheostat or do they work at all?
Good point. The dimmer doesn't affect any light other than the interior overhead light. In other words,
1) start at its dimmest and slowly move up to 1/2 way => Nothing (no lights become dimmer, gauge lights are completely out)
2) move from half way to 5/6 of the way => nothing (no lights become dimmer, gauge lights are completely
3) All the way up => Dash lights remain the same, interior overhead lights switch on.


It must be the dimmer switch.
Old 05-13-2008, 11:58 AM
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Thanks for the help. I removed the dimmer switch and ordered a replacement. Hopefully that fixes the problem.
Old 05-13-2008, 11:45 PM
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My apologies if I've caused you to buy a part erroneously. I mainly meant to establish whether the problem was limited to the panel lights or all rheostat controlled lights. Rheostats do go bad, but before I got a new one I would check I/P fuses #5 and #16. These both feed power to the rheostat.

They are located on the driver's side instrument panel behind that access cover that falls off when you open the door.... At least both of mine do.

To check them, you can try swapping EQUIVALENT fuses or use a test lamp. To use a test lamp, make sure the circuit is energized (parking lamps on, dimmer on max), connect the test lamp alligator clip to ground and make sure the lamp lights on both sides of each fuse.
Old 05-14-2008, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by haacer
My apologies if I've caused you to buy a part erroneously. I mainly meant to establish whether the problem was limited to the panel lights or all rheostat controlled lights. Rheostats do go bad, but before I got a new one I would check I/P fuses #5 and #16. These both feed power to the rheostat.

They are located on the driver's side instrument panel behind that access cover that falls off when you open the door.... At least both of mine do.

To check them, you can try swapping EQUIVALENT fuses or use a test lamp. To use a test lamp, make sure the circuit is energized (parking lamps on, dimmer on max), connect the test lamp alligator clip to ground and make sure the lamp lights on both sides of each fuse.
I visually checked all the fuses and they looked fine to me. Usually the fuses will be visually damaged Right???
Old 05-14-2008, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by landonew
I visually checked all the fuses and they looked fine to me. Usually the fuses will be visually damaged Right???
Not necessarily man. I had one go bad...could not see anything different than with the one I replaced it with.
Old 05-15-2008, 03:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NHRAMAN
Not necessarily man. I had one go bad...could not see anything different than with the one I replaced it with.
I will check those tonight. Thanks for input.
Old 05-15-2008, 07:42 PM
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Good news is that it turned out to be the rear lamp fuse. Bad news is that i already paid/ordered the part. Oh well, problem solved. Restocking fee isn't that bad i guess.
Old 05-16-2008, 07:58 AM
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Default dash light related problem

Ive had lots of little electrical gremlins (frt turn/DTRL,headlights)with my 99 lately, twice while driving the cluster went dead- blown 10a fuse- replaced and ok for a day- then again last time only had a 15a fuse - no problems since BUT the dash lights are supposed to be on dim when no lights are turned on arent they? there are no lights until the lights are turned on -then OK. but arent they supposed to be on dim so in lower light you can still read the guages arent they?
Old 05-16-2008, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by zman1969
Ive had lots of little electrical gremlins (frt turn/DTRL,headlights)with my 99 lately, twice while driving the cluster went dead- blown 10a fuse- replaced and ok for a day- then again last time only had a 15a fuse - no problems since BUT the dash lights are supposed to be on dim when no lights are turned on arent they? there are no lights until the lights are turned on -then OK. but arent they supposed to be on dim so in lower light you can still read the guages arent they?
Really am not sure. I know that my gauges went completely dead. I think it is a safety feature because it lets the driver know that the rear lights are out, and it forces you to replace the fuse ASAP.


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