Pass. window motor repl.
Pass. window motor repl. Well, I finally did it, today. I dropped the (02)Z28 off @ the local garage this morning. After havin survivied the hurricane(Edouard). Havin to leave the passinger's window about two or three inches from being completely rolled up (on the carport). B'cuz, I just could NOT get the window to roll up any further. BTW, the window motor has been acting up for awhile, now. Only rollin (mainly)up alill bite @ a time. Then, havin to let the motor cool down for awhile b4 trying again. Til it finally got to the point where the lill bite @ a time was for the rollin up or down.
First, I was going to just have the Auto Trix wiring kit installed. Mainly, to just try and increase the voltage to the motor. To see if, that was the fix situation. Then, the owner of the shop called (right after lunch today) and said he'd taken voltage/current readings on the motor and tried to operate it a couple of times. Each time he tried to operate the motor, it got really HOT. So, long story short, we're replacing the motor on the passinger's side window w/ one of the Seiman (brand) motor from AutoZone. I'll pick it up tomorrow, around lunch.
Also, flushed the engine/coolant system(out w/ the ol' in w/ the new), replaced the T-stat(w/ 178* stat) and topped off the refergerant in the A/C.
Take care,
Don
02 (A4)Camaro Z28 w/ T-tops(85K on the clock) 17" ROH(94-96 Impala SS type) rims w/ 275/40-17 BFG gForce
Lake Charles, LA
First, I was going to just have the Auto Trix wiring kit installed. Mainly, to just try and increase the voltage to the motor. To see if, that was the fix situation. Then, the owner of the shop called (right after lunch today) and said he'd taken voltage/current readings on the motor and tried to operate it a couple of times. Each time he tried to operate the motor, it got really HOT. So, long story short, we're replacing the motor on the passinger's side window w/ one of the Seiman (brand) motor from AutoZone. I'll pick it up tomorrow, around lunch.
Also, flushed the engine/coolant system(out w/ the ol' in w/ the new), replaced the T-stat(w/ 178* stat) and topped off the refergerant in the A/C.
Take care,
Don
02 (A4)Camaro Z28 w/ T-tops(85K on the clock) 17" ROH(94-96 Impala SS type) rims w/ 275/40-17 BFG gForce
Lake Charles, LA
Last edited by Don B 02 Z28; Aug 6, 2008 at 09:38 PM. Reason: addition
feels a ton better to have the window finally fixed, i know that feeling
i actually changed my spark plugs and plug wires, and pcv valve and i had to take out the egr hose in the back of the engine and wouldn't you know it i forget to attach the line back into the egr line and tonight i got an ses light. I stopped then hooked it up keep driving but the ses light was still on, so im going to wait till morning or disconnnect the battery to see if the ses light goes away
also some of the gaskets for the egr were messed up so i got to get new ones and i think that could of also caused a ses light, i did all this to pass smog i have coming up but now i have to make sure i have the ses light fixed
i actually changed my spark plugs and plug wires, and pcv valve and i had to take out the egr hose in the back of the engine and wouldn't you know it i forget to attach the line back into the egr line and tonight i got an ses light. I stopped then hooked it up keep driving but the ses light was still on, so im going to wait till morning or disconnnect the battery to see if the ses light goes away
also some of the gaskets for the egr were messed up so i got to get new ones and i think that could of also caused a ses light, i did all this to pass smog i have coming up but now i have to make sure i have the ses light fixed
Yea, you should be able to clear the SES light. Once you get the EGR leaks straightened out(recapped/plugged) and then do the trick w/ the dis-connecting of the battery and leavin it dis-connected for five or ten mins. In order to reset the EPROM code(s).
I had something similar to this happen. Back when I had my first 98 (white A4)TransAm. I only had it for about three weeks. Before I seen the stealership had a black M6 T/A arrival. Anyhoo, duringthat three weeks we had talked about shortin the EGR tube by cuttin it off. Which I performed the mod on the '98 A4 and not knowing @ the time. There was a rubber o'ring that sealed the EGR tube(housing) into the intake. The o'ring fail into the intake, I guess. Cuzin the A4 to throw the SES light. Then it was back to the stealership for warrenty work and that's when I spotted the black M6 T/A on the showroom floor. So, I traded the white A4 back in for the Black 98 M6.
Good luck!
Btw, YES, it does definitely feel much better w/ havin the window workin properly once again. Not to mentioning the performance and comfort of the coolant(T-stat) swap/flush and refrigerant top off.
I had something similar to this happen. Back when I had my first 98 (white A4)TransAm. I only had it for about three weeks. Before I seen the stealership had a black M6 T/A arrival. Anyhoo, duringthat three weeks we had talked about shortin the EGR tube by cuttin it off. Which I performed the mod on the '98 A4 and not knowing @ the time. There was a rubber o'ring that sealed the EGR tube(housing) into the intake. The o'ring fail into the intake, I guess. Cuzin the A4 to throw the SES light. Then it was back to the stealership for warrenty work and that's when I spotted the black M6 T/A on the showroom floor. So, I traded the white A4 back in for the Black 98 M6.
Good luck!
Btw, YES, it does definitely feel much better w/ havin the window workin properly once again. Not to mentioning the performance and comfort of the coolant(T-stat) swap/flush and refrigerant top off.
Last edited by Don B 02 Z28; Aug 9, 2008 at 05:34 PM. Reason: additions
My driver's window motor needs replaced. I called the local dealership here and inquired about getting it replaced. The crooks said $230 for the part and $180 to install!!!!! Over $400 BUCKS!!!!!! looks like i'll be doing it myself.
BUT, while your in there, I suggest installing the autotrix fix also. That should keep the new motor from burning out, like the original one did/does. Worth the extra money.
Yea, you should be able to clear the SES light. Once you get the EGR leaks straightened out(recapped/plugged) and then do the trick w/ the dis-connecting of the battery and leavin it dis-connected for five or ten mins. In order to reset the EPROM code(s).
I had something similar to this happen. Back when I had my first 98 (white A4)TransAm. I only had it for about three weeks. Before I seen the stealership had a black M6 T/A arrival. Anyhoo, duringthat three weeks we had talked about shortin the EGR tube by cuttin it off. Which I performed the mod on the '98 A4 and not knowing @ the time. There was a rubber o'ring that sealed the EGR tube(housing) into the intake. The o'ring fail into the intake, I guess. Cuzin the A4 to throw the SES light. Then it was back to the stealership for warrenty work and that's when I spotted the black M6 T/A on the showroom floor. So, I traded the white A4 back in for the Black 98 M6.
Good luck!
Btw, YES, it does definitely feel much better w/ havin the window workin properly once again. Not to mentioning the performance and comfort of the coolant(T-stat) swap/flush and refrigerant top off.
I had something similar to this happen. Back when I had my first 98 (white A4)TransAm. I only had it for about three weeks. Before I seen the stealership had a black M6 T/A arrival. Anyhoo, duringthat three weeks we had talked about shortin the EGR tube by cuttin it off. Which I performed the mod on the '98 A4 and not knowing @ the time. There was a rubber o'ring that sealed the EGR tube(housing) into the intake. The o'ring fail into the intake, I guess. Cuzin the A4 to throw the SES light. Then it was back to the stealership for warrenty work and that's when I spotted the black M6 T/A on the showroom floor. So, I traded the white A4 back in for the Black 98 M6.
Good luck!
Btw, YES, it does definitely feel much better w/ havin the window workin properly once again. Not to mentioning the performance and comfort of the coolant(T-stat) swap/flush and refrigerant top off.
Make sure to read my thread, as in what not to do. I messed up on mine but thankfully all fixed. make sure to have instruction in front of you before you start the project i thought i had read enough about it to know what i was doing, and since i was out of paper i just went ahead and fixed it well, messed up then fixed it. Not tough at all, good luck and remember read my thread and ger the sho instructions and have them in front of you when fixing the window.
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BUT, while your in there, I suggest installing the autotrix fix also. That should keep the new motor from burning out, like the original one did/does. Worth the extra money.
Well, like I said earlier, we tried to just go w/ the AutoTrix fix and after carefully evaluation of the pass. side motor current/voltage under load readings. We decided to go w/ a brand new 'Seimens' motor. The window work like a champ, now. It's a drag race(w/ a photo finish) to see which window gets up first.
So, I have one of the AutoTrix kits(the box it came in has been opened. But, the package w/ all the wires, connectors and relays has not). If, anyone is interested in getting one of these kits. I have no use for the kit, now.
Good luck!
Oh btw, I had the guy down the street @ a local garage perform the testin and replacement of the motor, cost was $80. for the motor and like $180. for the labor. (Workin six 10's a week, leaves me very lill time to do any wrenchin
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/MVC-019S.jpg
Last edited by Don B 02 Z28; Aug 11, 2008 at 10:00 PM. Reason: addition
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got the ses light off tonight after a couple runs, was going to disconnect the battery after i bought the egr gaskets but the light went off after a few hard runs.