Naaman

Hello All,

My rear axle bearings are due for replacement and I've been looking into what's out there. Figured I'd do the front wheel bearings as well. I came across Sam Strano's hub adapters that he made a couple years back (all gone now, unfortunately) and it got me thinking that there might be something out there that will make my car better than it is right now.

Anything out there an upgrade over OEM that will improve the car in any way?

It's a 98 6 speed Z28. The car is my "do everything" car (daily driver, road trips, etc.) and is set up to maximize handling. Stock rear end with 3.42s.

In case it matters, handling mods include:
UMI SFCs
UMI LCAs (poly/roto)
UMI PHB
Koni yellows
Strano Springs
Strano Sway bars


Any tips or a parts list for a wheel bearing and axle bearing replacement?

Thanks in advance.

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

rear axle bearing replacement is not rocket science...you need the bearings...seals...and a bearing puller...and check the axles themselves to make sure the bearing surface is not to worn...if it is ...new axles are in order

detroit speed makes the front heavy duty bearing assembly you are referring to...you can get them from Sam or Detroit speed

ghardester

Is this a Torsen/zexel rear end? If so, before you even open the thing up, get a 6 point box end 5/16 wrench to get the pin that holds the paddle between the axles out. You will save yourself a lot of potential misery. No, a 8mm looks like it will work, and it may, or you may round the head of that bolt off and then you are fucked. This little bolt is installed with loc-tight from the factory and you need the exact 5/16 wrench and a few taps on a hammer to get that out. Then the paddle between the axles comes right out and the axles pull right. Re-install only with a new factory bolt that comes with loc-tight already on it, they cost about $3.

If your rear axle bearing needs to be changed then the axles probably do too. Listen to the rear end while driving at low speeds and you can hear a rummbling from the axle. The axle willl probably have a spalled area around the axle where the bearing rides.

Need a slide hammer and bearing puller to get the old bearings out, I bought a tool set for setting the bearings and seal in place but as long as you tap them in straight you might not need that. Regardless of which company that you order your new rear bearing kit from they are all goint to send you the same Timken bearings.

And buy your new axles from a high qualiity company. I chased down a brake noise for a year after changing my rear axles only to find that the ******* brand new Dorman axle I had installed had a mis-alinged end plate.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Buying fancy/race bearings won't change your handling or a normal driving car. I expect they are heavier and would move you the other way by adding unsprung mass.

IMO - You are best off to get some stock bearings put out by a reputable bearing manufacturer. (Timken, SKF, etc.)

Naaman

Thanks everyone for the input.

Looks like I'll be going with some Timkens all the way around.

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

Would like to add...

It's not always necessary to replace a rear axle that's stuffed and spelled from bad bearings.

Cheater bearings are available for the rear axle and they are far less expensive than new axles. They slightly relocate the spot the bearings ride on. Shops sometimes fail mention this less expensive repair option. It doesn't always apply but will in many cases.

Have ran the factory rear bearings for ~200,000 miles and ran the cheater bearings for another 189,000 miles...on same stock axle.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

'Cheater' bearings, axle saver bearings, move the axle outward slightly so that the bearings rides on a 'fresh' portion of the axle.
But there are many horror stories here on the forum about using them. Since the axle is moved outward slightly, the c-clip is not easily re-installed and the horror part come when the axle is needed to be removed the next time and the axle can't be pushed in far enough to remove the c-clip.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-10-bolts.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...-problems.html