What type of OIL do you use???
01-07-2010, 08:47 PM
#101
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Shelbyville, IN
Posts: 525
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 10W40... don't get all caught up in the numbers.
It's all about the viscosity index. A perfect oil would be the same viscosity at every temp (and at least at this time is pretty much impossible). Ask the wind-turbine mfgs about that...
A straight SAE 30 oil has a poor viscosity index, at warm/operating temperatures it's perfectly fine (like in a lawn-mower that just sees spring/summer use), but at cold temps it would have a viscosity that is WAY too thick. That's why they added VI improver additives to make Multigrade oils.
The 0W30 GC has a similar VI as the 5W30 Mobile 1 IIRC. Although getting this info from the mfgs can be a pita sometimes...
Start adding moisture / fuel from blowby into the oil and it gets even more challenging.
And don't get too caught up on the "specialty" oil companies, I know people like to say it the best oil ever... but I'd trust Exxon/Shell/etc.. that spends more in R&D then some of the total sales of the smaller "specialty" oil companies anyday... Just saying.
It's all about the viscosity index. A perfect oil would be the same viscosity at every temp (and at least at this time is pretty much impossible). Ask the wind-turbine mfgs about that...
A straight SAE 30 oil has a poor viscosity index, at warm/operating temperatures it's perfectly fine (like in a lawn-mower that just sees spring/summer use), but at cold temps it would have a viscosity that is WAY too thick. That's why they added VI improver additives to make Multigrade oils.
The 0W30 GC has a similar VI as the 5W30 Mobile 1 IIRC. Although getting this info from the mfgs can be a pita sometimes...
Start adding moisture / fuel from blowby into the oil and it gets even more challenging.
And don't get too caught up on the "specialty" oil companies, I know people like to say it the best oil ever... but I'd trust Exxon/Shell/etc.. that spends more in R&D then some of the total sales of the smaller "specialty" oil companies anyday... Just saying.
01-15-2010, 09:54 PM
#106
ok so i'll post again since i'm gettin double looks by people around here when i've asked them about oil. mileage on bottom end is 169,3XX, it now has fresh 241 heads with dual valve springs, locks, seals, retainers and rocker arms with a new TR227/224 cam, LS7 lifters w/LS2 lifter trays, LS2 timing chain and melling oil pump. now that the facts are stated, the second i tell people i put in 0w30 to run it because some of the guys on here said i should be running that oil, they look at me and say "yeah i'd run that if i had half your mileage but you need a thicker oil, stay away from 10w30 and find 40 weight if you can or use 20w50" my buddy runs 20w50 in his lady's saturn that has 202K on it, i understand the thinner the more power you get out because of less friction (as what i've been told) but why would i want to continue running 0w30 on my HIGH mileage engine when it can hurt my engine from what i'm being told?
01-15-2010, 11:13 PM
#107
At hot running temps, the GC 10w30 usually measures in the area of a 40 weight.
Sometimes it's best to not tell your genius friends what you're running as everybody has un-educated opinions on "what's best" for you. OR try to make them feel stupid because you know more than they do.
When people say I’m nuts for using it, I ask them what additives their favorite oil has and at what temperature it breaks down. Often, these are the same idiots that use Fram Tough Guard filters or add conditioners like Lucas Oil Stabilizer which just foams up the oil with air bubbles. Brilliant!
Sometimes it's best to not tell your genius friends what you're running as everybody has un-educated opinions on "what's best" for you. OR try to make them feel stupid because you know more than they do.
When people say I’m nuts for using it, I ask them what additives their favorite oil has and at what temperature it breaks down. Often, these are the same idiots that use Fram Tough Guard filters or add conditioners like Lucas Oil Stabilizer which just foams up the oil with air bubbles. Brilliant!
01-16-2010, 07:38 AM
#110
King Nothing, I think it’s time for you to start experimenting with different oils and weights. I would suggest you try Royal Purple, German Castrol, Mobil One, Lucas and Amsoil. Every engine will react differently due to use, climate, milage and how it’s been maintained over it’s life. Use a good top shelf oil filter with every oil change like K&N, Mobil One or Royal Purple. Wix/Car Quest and Hastings work in a pinch or when limited by budget.
Oil makers spend tons of money on their formulations so don’t ruin their carefully blended oils with any supplements or additives.
On your engine, you’ll be looking for the difference in cold start piston slap, valve train noise and oil consumption in the exhaust.
Oil makers spend tons of money on their formulations so don’t ruin their carefully blended oils with any supplements or additives.
On your engine, you’ll be looking for the difference in cold start piston slap, valve train noise and oil consumption in the exhaust.
01-16-2010, 10:37 AM
#112
Launching!
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: east brookfield,ma
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok so i'll post again since i'm gettin double looks by people around here when i've asked them about oil. mileage on bottom end is 169,3XX, it now has fresh 241 heads with dual valve springs, locks, seals, retainers and rocker arms with a new TR227/224 cam, LS7 lifters w/LS2 lifter trays, LS2 timing chain and melling oil pump. now that the facts are stated, the second i tell people i put in 0w30 to run it because some of the guys on here said i should be running that oil, they look at me and say "yeah i'd run that if i had half your mileage but you need a thicker oil, stay away from 10w30 and find 40 weight if you can or use 20w50" my buddy runs 20w50 in his lady's saturn that has 202K on it, i understand the thinner the more power you get out because of less friction (as what i've been told) but why would i want to continue running 0w30 on my HIGH mileage engine when it can hurt my engine from what i'm being told?
have you tried a 15-40w oil, i use this in my mother's lt1 camaro that has 125,xxx plus miles and it works great and in the winter i drop it down to accomodate for the cold weather, i see your in california so its pretty much warm all the time so you don't need to worry about the change of seasons
01-16-2010, 10:38 AM
#113
Staging Lane
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: CT
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
MobilOne 5w30 regular w/MobilOne synthetic oil filter with 90,000, an MSv3 cam and a WHOLE lot of abuse, only burn a quart every 2500...that tach says 7k so thats where it goes lol
01-16-2010, 11:05 AM
#114
I prefer to use Redline 10w-40 in any high performance V-8 application. Have been using it going on 15 years with excellent results. It is a very tough oil and happens to be a Group V base oil(polyol ester). It is loaded with ZDDP and also contains Moly. My favorite thing about it is its high HTHS number which has been shown to cut down on wear in high performance engines. There is no "magic" oil but there are better ones for a given application. And there defiantely is some misinformation in this thread relating to oil brands. Funny how some old wives tales never die If you want to learn about oil visit bobistheoilguy.com. Many more qualified people there to answer any lubrcation related questions.
If you want to learn about oil visit bobistheoilguy.com. Many more qualified people there to answer any lubrcation related questions.
01-16-2010, 11:49 AM
#115
Launching!
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: east brookfield,ma
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I prefer to use Redline 10w-40 in any high performance V-8 application. Have been using it going on 15 years with excellent results. It is a very tough oil and happens to be a Group V base oil(polyol ester). It is loaded with ZDDP and also contains Moly. My favorite thing about it is its high HTHS number which has been shown to cut down on wear in high performance engines. There is no "magic" oil but there are better ones for a given application. And there defiantely is some misinformation in this thread relating to oil brands. Funny how some old wives tales never die If you want to learn about oil visit bobistheoilguy.com. Many more qualified people there to answer any lubrcation related questions.
If you want to learn about oil visit bobistheoilguy.com. Many more qualified people there to answer any lubrcation related questions.
01-16-2010, 11:49 AM
#116
King Nothing, I think it’s time for you to start experimenting with different oils and weights. I would suggest you try Royal Purple, German Castrol, Mobil One, Lucas and Amsoil. Every engine will react differently due to use, climate, milage and how it’s been maintained over it’s life. Use a good top shelf oil filter with every oil change like K&N, Mobil One or Royal Purple. Wix/Car Quest and Hastings work in a pinch or when limited by budget.
have you tried a 15-40w oil, i use this in my mother's lt1 camaro that has 125,xxx plus miles and it works great and in the winter i drop it down to accomodate for the cold weather, i see your in california so its pretty much warm all the time so you don't need to worry about the change of seasons
