5.7mmImportkilla

Yup, im broke and this exhaust leak is killing me on the drivers side..
I ordered GM MLS so this Sunday im going to put my pants on and try to attack this gasket... im alil nervous cause if something goes wrong i don't have money to send it to a shop plus i don't want to damage anything.

If i can replace the knock sensor on my ls1 i probably can unbolt 6 bolts and tighten em back huh? it already been removed last year during my Eldelbrock shorty installation which cost me alot more money then i expected cause driver side bolt closest to the firewall snap...
Should i spray the gasket with copper spray thingy?

Soooo... any advice would be appreciated..
thx

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

If you just replaced the manifold with a header last year the bolts should not give you trouble. If you are broke you should pull your spark plugs so that you don't break them when you take the bolts out. Remember to loosen the manifold from the rest of the exhaust it will be extremely difficult to put the header back on to the head if it is attached to the rest of the exhaust. With headers to make sure they seal you need to tighten them tight go drive it for a half an hour and then burn your hands by tightening them with the engine really hot.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Soak it down with wd-40 if any of them give you problems. I doubt they will though. Use a tad bit of anti-seize on the bolt threads to make it easier for the next time. Copper spray wont hurt either.

5.7mmImportkilla

Thanks fellas..
I was really hoping to just loosen up the 6 bolts pull the headers over and wedge it with my old Nike shoe remove the old gasket clean the head with break cleaner scrub and wash off and prob spray some Copper spray just to guarantee my own work..was not planning to unbolt the other 3 on the bottom..
Damn..think i can get away from not removing those 3 bolts on the bottom??..
guess i have too, huh?

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

I would shortcuts can cost money in time money and frustration. The three bolts should only add 30 minutes of time but if you dont remove them you could be stuck with a much longer headache. Getting the header bolts all started and lined up is hard enough with the header loose if it is attached to the exhaust it is much harder.

transamtom

iTrader: (8)

Get felpro's and you can leave the front and back bolt in (but loose) slide the gasket in(front and back are hooks) and tighten them all back up.

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

yup felpro gaskets have the cutout on the front and rear bolts so all you have to do is loosen up the headers enough to give you enough clearance to tear the old gasket out and put the new one in, unbolt your y pipe from the headers to make it easier to pull the header loose from the head, shouldn't be a big deal unloosening those bolts if you just put the headers on last year, mine sealed right up doing it that way no problem, tighten your bolts a little bit at a time starting from the 2 center bolts and working your way out to the ends just make sure you have all the bolts started before you start tightening

5.7mmImportkilla

I guess I'm going to remove those 3 bolts from the bottom cause I already have an GM MLS on the way... felpro idea sounds like a passenger side win with the lack of space we have..
Think I can reuse the same 3bolt gasket or just replace it since I'm down there??
Thanks for the input fellas!

5.7mmImportkilla

following up om my lil project,
found out that my header gasket was fine but the collector gasket was busted up..damn!
should have look at the collector first...
oh well..

shepss217

iTrader: (5)

that really sucks, coulda saved yourself alot of time just changing that

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

That gasket is 6 bucks at Napa no big deal. Manifold gaskets look fine but still leak so its good to replace both.

5.7mmImportkilla

Yeah, I replacem them both... Sound good now drove around the block twice Tonight when the block (engine) is cool I'll re-tighten em.. Driver side was not hard at all I had to loosen up the y pipe bolts to move the headers.. Not a big deal..
The only trouble I have manuvering the collector gasket while keeping the catspipe inline with the 3 bolts... I now realize that I should have bless the 3 collector bolts with antilock like someone mention here!..
Thanks fellas..

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

Tighten the bolts with the engine super hot. The metal expands when hot so with headers lots of people get exhaust leaks after a short period of time. Just get some good gloves and burn your hands a bit to make sure the bolts stay tight.

5.7mmImportkilla

Turbopig,
Thank for the advice, but I can be wrong but I was told never unbolt or bolt anything while the engine is hot cause the aluminum is soft and could possibly stripe or damage the threads..?
Idk?

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

Headers are the one exception. Use only a 3/8 ratchet and use common sense when it feels tight by hand that is all it needs. You will notice the bolt is tight when cold and you wont get much but will get a bit more when hot. Never use air on aluminum that is for sure. I had a really good 30 year engine builder as one of my teachers and one of the things he told me is headers will always get exhaust leaks unless you tighten them with the engine hot. If you are scared get the torque spec for the bolts and use a torque wrench and use that when hot but I have always just used a 3/8 ratchet and never broken a bolt. Bolts usually will break with air and using a larger than 3/8 ratchet or breaker bar.

TurbopigB4C

iTrader: (5)

If using air on anything in the engine that is aluminum I only use something like this. It is not strong enough to break bolts.

5.7mmImportkilla

Ok, gotcha
I will snug em a lil more after a long drive somewhere.. Thanks!!