kdick91

iTrader: (1)

I installed a poly trans mount and poly motor mounts not too long ago and they have felt great and everything was grand! (Except for the install, I left ALL the exhaust in) But I noticed my transmission SLOWLY started clunking in between shifts. I got under to find the mount had vibrated nearly COMPLETELY lose from the transmission. Every other bolt was completely solid. Then, it hit me, I forgot to use thread locker on every bolt. How urgently should I tend to the motor mounts? Nothing has changed on that end, and I can't get to the bolts easily to check for looseness, but can I expect those to vibrate loose as well?

Thanks,
Kyle

P.S.: If anyone has questions about the install, specifically with exhaust in, feel free to ask.

AwsmGy

iTrader: (4)

If they're loose, I'd take care of it as soon as you can.

95maroz28

iTrader: (21)

i hope its not a problem. i didnt use any on my spohn solids a few weeks ago

PheonixLS1

iTrader: (4)

I didn't on my poly's a few weeks ago. Everyone I asked on here said DO NOT use lock tite on anything that may need to come back out later down the road. Everyone actually recommended I use anti-sieze grease on all the bolts ( but I forgot to, woops).

bayer-z28

iTrader: (14)

I never used thread locker on my transmission (bell housing) mount and cross member.. never had a problem.

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

I did poly mounts 2yrs and 60k ago with out thread locker and there fine. I would, however, use blue locktite on the trans mount bolts if they back out any.

ShevrolayZ28

iTrader: (4)

I think the entire drive train will fall out.

silverado.408

iTrader: (1)

what did you do to take out and install the mounts

JRENIGAR

iTrader: (37)

did it when headers were goin in. Took whole mount and stand out at one time. Removed alt for drivers side. Removed bolts on clamshell and stand on pass side then turn 180 degrees and remove bolt holding stand and clamshell together. Put pass side bolt in from behind as to allow easier removal in future if needed. Didnt have to touch ac comp to do this either.

Stingerrr85

iTrader: (6)

blue threadlocker use ! its the best not red

trans_am7935

iTrader: (15)

i was given the same advice, the only thing i used thread locker on was my fly wheelbolts. on my longtube headers, spark plugs, timing cover, and valve cover bolts i used anti-sieze. i like to be able to take my bolts out when need be. also on all my suspension bolts, anti-sieze as well

kdick91

iTrader: (1)

I started on the driver-side. I removed the alternator and the two brackets (alt bracket and idler pulley bracket) From there I supported the motor, slid the long bolt out, and removed the 4 bolts from the motor. It was kinda challenging accessing them, but far from impossible. I had to lift the motor more to get the old mount out and lift it even more to get the new one in. Once it was in, fitting it was cake. Everything went in as it should. On the pass side, I unbolted the starter (for comfort) and the AC compressor and shoved it forward about 6". That was enough to get the long bolt out. Get the other 4 bolts out. Now, when the new one was going it, I had trouble lining the motor up. You can't lift it into place. I got a sledge hammer, shoved the handle between the motor and the inside fender well and pulled like crazy. It was enough to pitch it into place. Put it back together and done!

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

I used loctite on the small bolts holding the clasmshells together but not on the bolts that hold it actually on the motor and I have cam lope like a mother*!! 15k miles and zero issues.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

I did the same thing minus the cam lope, and they've been holding strong for the last 5 years.