Low-Profile Thermostatic Oil Cooler Adapter for LS-Series Engine
05-27-2013, 02:09 PM
#1
Low-Profile Thermostatic Oil Cooler Adapter for LS-Series Engine Is anyone running the Improved racing cooler on the 4th gen camaro/TA?
what kind of header clearance are you seeing? Will it work with kooks 1-7/8?
what kind of header clearance are you seeing? Will it work with kooks 1-7/8?
Last edited by maroonls1z; 05-27-2013 at 02:16 PM.
05-27-2013, 09:18 PM
#3
I found this on LS1 tech, is is a post from 2012 with the old style one, the one with the thermostat is a little thicker. since they posted themselves on here, then i dont see a reason not to post a link of their product. here you go...
Original LS1tech link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produ...r-adapter.html
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Our low-profile oil cooler adapter for LS-series engines is now in stock. These are designed to provide as much clearance as possible for long tube headers.
Features:
Low-profile design provides more header clearance than any other oil cooler adapter on the market
Two 1/8" NPT ports for sensors or turbo oil feed line (anodized aluminum plugs for both ports included)
Includes o-ring fittings for -10AN or -8AN lines
Viton o-rings
Military Spec Type II black anodized finish
Stainless steel hardware
Price is $139.00.
Pics:
These last pics are ones of the new design with the thermostat built in. it is a 180* stat that is fully open at 200*
And finally the link to the new thermostat controlled one:
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-ad...ine-p-209.html
Although this one is $70 more then the original, it is ideal if you use yours on the street as to not "Over-cool" your motor. Operating temps for the street should be ideally 180*-220* in a perfect world.
Original LS1tech link:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produ...r-adapter.html
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Our low-profile oil cooler adapter for LS-series engines is now in stock. These are designed to provide as much clearance as possible for long tube headers.
Features:
Low-profile design provides more header clearance than any other oil cooler adapter on the market
Two 1/8" NPT ports for sensors or turbo oil feed line (anodized aluminum plugs for both ports included)
Includes o-ring fittings for -10AN or -8AN lines
Viton o-rings
Military Spec Type II black anodized finish
Stainless steel hardware
Price is $139.00.
Pics:
These last pics are ones of the new design with the thermostat built in. it is a 180* stat that is fully open at 200*
And finally the link to the new thermostat controlled one:
http://www.improvedracing.com/oil-ad...ine-p-209.html
Although this one is $70 more then the original, it is ideal if you use yours on the street as to not "Over-cool" your motor. Operating temps for the street should be ideally 180*-220* in a perfect world.
10-07-2013, 04:59 PM
#4
Personally, I'll be going with one of the two above. They are the lowest profile adapters to my knowledge.
You can print out dimensions from improved racing's website then check clearance on your setup. Two things to check for are clearance to headers and clearance to run lines. Think somebody here tested it and had to run a few angled fittings for a clean install with plenty of clearance.
You can print out dimensions from improved racing's website then check clearance on your setup. Two things to check for are clearance to headers and clearance to run lines. Think somebody here tested it and had to run a few angled fittings for a clean install with plenty of clearance.
10-07-2013, 05:38 PM
#5
There was no way that style would fit with my 2" Kooks. I had the Katech and it was not even close, even after milling 1/8" off. The fitting was right tight against my header. I tried the Hamburger unit and it was 2" lower than my oil pan. So no go. Also tried a truck oil cooler with lines, and it was close, but still dangerous IMO.
Don't get me wrong the Improved Racing stuff is nice. I have their oil baffle. Just the pictures shown is of an RX7 headers that are totally different than the F Bodies that come right tight against the block and all the way down by the oil filter.
I designed my own for a remote mount filter and cooler. Started with a Canton, which also would not work. I also ported the Canton for better flow.
Anyway this is how it looked.
Tons of clearance now, no worries of heating or igniting the oil. Lines run up the side of the block and the lowest point is about 1/2" below the oil pan and 1" above the K Member. You can also use a tight 90, but I wanted to ensure it had the best possible flow. Oil cooler is oil to coolant so the thermostat sets the temp with the coolant.
Hope that saves you some of the leg work and money I wasted.
Don't get me wrong the Improved Racing stuff is nice. I have their oil baffle. Just the pictures shown is of an RX7 headers that are totally different than the F Bodies that come right tight against the block and all the way down by the oil filter.
I designed my own for a remote mount filter and cooler. Started with a Canton, which also would not work. I also ported the Canton for better flow.
Anyway this is how it looked.
Tons of clearance now, no worries of heating or igniting the oil. Lines run up the side of the block and the lowest point is about 1/2" below the oil pan and 1" above the K Member. You can also use a tight 90, but I wanted to ensure it had the best possible flow. Oil cooler is oil to coolant so the thermostat sets the temp with the coolant.
Hope that saves you some of the leg work and money I wasted.
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Homer_Simpson (12-07-2021)
10-07-2013, 06:15 PM
#6
We just installed one on our C5 Vette last night. Lots of room.
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10-08-2013, 01:26 PM
#8
LS1Tech Sponsor
Note the difference circled red in the pedestal where the oil adapter bolts to. It looks like your pan has the oil filter recessed further into the pan and/or the pedestal protrudes further out the side of the pan than the factory F-Body pan.
We are considering developing a new thermostatic adapter with fittings that come out the bottom instead of the top. Do you think that would have helped in your situation? Several of our customers have, in fact, flipped our adapter upside down for better clearance in their setup. This would work with the oil pan you just posted photos of, but it wouldn't work with the original F-Body pan because of the lip just below the adapter mounting surface.
-Michael
10-08-2013, 02:55 PM
#9
It is a truck pan, but the location is the same on both for the adaptors, this was all I needed for the testing. The oil filter is shifted over though.
I will post up my various trials later when I get home.
I tried a Hamburger and it hung too low and in danger of bottoming and taking out my oil supply. Also passed right in front of the oil drain. It was perfect for a truck though.
I tried the GM Truck adaptor for the LSx trucks with oil coolers. The aluminum tubing was smaller ID than AN10, and was still no more than 1/8" clear of the header. Under full load on the dyno my headers glowed, I do not want oil that close to the headers.
The Katechs/Lingenfelters like yours work awesome on the Vettes and some of the hybrids that tuck up higher like your RX7 and a little away from the motor.
My F body with the Kooks did not have enough room to pass the 2 10 AN hoses between the block and header, it was that tight. Mine are 2" headers, so the 1 7/8" have a little more room, I had those too, but it is not enough to be safe, even with a fire sleeve. They both followed the same path and layout of the tubes. My final design offers around 1" - 3/4" of clearance from the header and allows me to change the oil as well.
The F Body is a bitch with headers. Stock manifolds it can be done with your style though. Not many of us leave those on anymore though.
I will post up my various trials later when I get home.
I tried a Hamburger and it hung too low and in danger of bottoming and taking out my oil supply. Also passed right in front of the oil drain. It was perfect for a truck though.
I tried the GM Truck adaptor for the LSx trucks with oil coolers. The aluminum tubing was smaller ID than AN10, and was still no more than 1/8" clear of the header. Under full load on the dyno my headers glowed, I do not want oil that close to the headers.
The Katechs/Lingenfelters like yours work awesome on the Vettes and some of the hybrids that tuck up higher like your RX7 and a little away from the motor.
My F body with the Kooks did not have enough room to pass the 2 10 AN hoses between the block and header, it was that tight. Mine are 2" headers, so the 1 7/8" have a little more room, I had those too, but it is not enough to be safe, even with a fire sleeve. They both followed the same path and layout of the tubes. My final design offers around 1" - 3/4" of clearance from the header and allows me to change the oil as well.
The F Body is a bitch with headers. Stock manifolds it can be done with your style though. Not many of us leave those on anymore though.
10-08-2013, 03:21 PM
#10
LS1Tech Sponsor
It is a truck pan, but the location is the same on both for the adaptors, this was all I needed for the testing. The oil filter is shifted over though.
I will post up my various trials later when I get home.
I tried a Hamburger and it hung too low and in danger of bottoming and taking out my oil supply. Also passed right in front of the oil drain. It was perfect for a truck though.
I tried the GM Truck adaptor for the LSx trucks with oil coolers. The aluminum tubing was smaller ID than AN10, and was still no more than 1/8" clear of the header. Under full load on the dyno my headers glowed, I do not want oil that close to the headers.
The Katechs/Lingenfelters like yours work awesome on the Vettes and some of the hybrids that tuck up higher like your RX7 and a little away from the motor.
My F body with the Kooks did not have enough room to pass the 2 10 AN hoses between the block and header, it was that tight. Mine are 2" headers, so the 1 7/8" have a little more room, I had those too, but it is not enough to be safe, even with a fire sleeve. They both followed the same path and layout of the tubes. My final design offers around 1" - 3/4" of clearance from the header and allows me to change the oil as well.
The F Body is a bitch with headers. Stock manifolds it can be done with your style though. Not many of us leave those on anymore though.
I will post up my various trials later when I get home.
I tried a Hamburger and it hung too low and in danger of bottoming and taking out my oil supply. Also passed right in front of the oil drain. It was perfect for a truck though.
I tried the GM Truck adaptor for the LSx trucks with oil coolers. The aluminum tubing was smaller ID than AN10, and was still no more than 1/8" clear of the header. Under full load on the dyno my headers glowed, I do not want oil that close to the headers.
The Katechs/Lingenfelters like yours work awesome on the Vettes and some of the hybrids that tuck up higher like your RX7 and a little away from the motor.
My F body with the Kooks did not have enough room to pass the 2 10 AN hoses between the block and header, it was that tight. Mine are 2" headers, so the 1 7/8" have a little more room, I had those too, but it is not enough to be safe, even with a fire sleeve. They both followed the same path and layout of the tubes. My final design offers around 1" - 3/4" of clearance from the header and allows me to change the oil as well.
The F Body is a bitch with headers. Stock manifolds it can be done with your style though. Not many of us leave those on anymore though.
We are considering developing a new thermostatic adapter with fittings that come out the bottom instead of the top. Do you think that would have helped in your situation? Several of our customers have, in fact, flipped our adapter upside down for better clearance in their setup. This would work with the oil pan you just posted photos of, but it wouldn't work with the original F-Body pan because of the lip just below the adapter mounting surface.
10-08-2013, 05:03 PM
#11
I could share with you my design for the remote adaptor, I think you could improve on it a well. I had a few ideas on how to increase oil flow, as I did port the Canton to get more, but I think there is a way to gain even more flow and make it even more compact. I had thought of drawing it up and making a prototype.
Let me know if it is something you are interested in.
10-08-2013, 05:19 PM
#12
LS1Tech Sponsor
Sorry missed that. The issue is how close the header ends up being.
I could share with you my design for the remote adaptor, I think you could improve on it a well. I had a few ideas on how to increase oil flow, as I did port the Canton to get more, but I think there is a way to gain even more flow and make it even more compact. I had thought of drawing it up and making a prototype.
Let me know if it is something you are interested in.
I could share with you my design for the remote adaptor, I think you could improve on it a well. I had a few ideas on how to increase oil flow, as I did port the Canton to get more, but I think there is a way to gain even more flow and make it even more compact. I had thought of drawing it up and making a prototype.
Let me know if it is something you are interested in.
The only problem with that design is it requires relocating the oil filter, which most people don't want to compromise on, but I will think about it.
10-08-2013, 06:14 PM
#13
I guess what I'm trying to ask is do the headers typically run very close in that area, or just up top? How much clearance do you have straight out in front of the pedestal gasket surface?
The only problem with that design is it requires relocating the oil filter, which most people don't want to compromise on, but I will think about it.
The only problem with that design is it requires relocating the oil filter, which most people don't want to compromise on, but I will think about it.
I under stand on the remote filter thing, but in hindsight I am glad I did. With a Ford SBF Filter I can get any type of Hi Flo racing filter I want. I am now using a Wix Racing filter to maintain maximum pressure. You can not buy these for the LSx motors, at least not the last time I checked.
11-25-2013, 09:55 AM
#15
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What about using the OEM truck takeoff block, and
cobbling a temperature controlled valve somewhere
else in the loop? The truck piece is not very thick
(got one in a box around here somewhere) and has
the hard lines built in to get you past the exhaust
manifold with no worries about touching hot pipe.
Maybe you could just run the oil cooler solenoid
valve off the low speed fan feed, or something.
Assume that if the coolant is hot, so is the oil?
cobbling a temperature controlled valve somewhere
else in the loop? The truck piece is not very thick
(got one in a box around here somewhere) and has
the hard lines built in to get you past the exhaust
manifold with no worries about touching hot pipe.
Maybe you could just run the oil cooler solenoid
valve off the low speed fan feed, or something.
Assume that if the coolant is hot, so is the oil?
01-19-2014, 01:50 PM
#16
at the moment im going to try picking up some lines and block for an ls7 and using their inline thermostatic bypass. i think the hard lines will squeeze between the headers and i may put some high temp wrap just to be sure. Ill cut off the rubber part of the lines and flare the hard lines and see how they do.
01-24-2014, 11:26 PM
#17
How does this fabricated adapter save you any more height than the other oil filter adapters that pipe out the bottom? By tapping one of the ports out the bottom, how does this save you clearance over adapters like the hamburger? Asking because I'm in the process of adding a filter/cooler/accusump and run 1-7/8" kooks.
I just purchased this Derale adapter yesterday from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15705/overview/ for mock up purposes. Going to try an 90 NTP fitting and straight NTP with 90 swivel hose end to run lines in parallel. Hopefully I'll be able to find enough clearance someway.
I just purchased this Derale adapter yesterday from summit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-15705/overview/ for mock up purposes. Going to try an 90 NTP fitting and straight NTP with 90 swivel hose end to run lines in parallel. Hopefully I'll be able to find enough clearance someway.
01-27-2014, 10:44 AM
#20
Later it was determined I had some top ring issues letting more exhaust into the bottom end than should ever get there, but it is not a bad thing with a 7.5 liter to have a quality oil cooler. The 2" headers take up a lot of room as well, so the standard solutions just did not cut it for me.