ironmanLS1

iTrader: (9)

Sorry, disagree with the last post. going to a different dyno to look for a higher number is like coming on here asking help with the same question over and over until someone agrees with you.

manzo81maro

Yea I hear you, the shop owner said he'll give me a free pull and tune if necessary when the dyno is sorted out...I take it somewhere else, and it'll be $50-$100 for one pull...

I gotta take it easy on the spending on this thing for a bit...drill mod is free so I figure I'll try that and see what it gets me...will also probably wrap the line with some heat reflective tape

manzo81maro

Yea, like I said, I'll rely more on my track numbers to tell me how much I gained...important thing is the tune is dialed in and the car runs awesome!

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

I laid down 343rwhp and 353rwtq with my old ws6 that was an a4 with some cheap eBay headers and other bolt ons (25% underdrive, ported throttle body, etc). You should be able to hit those numbers easy.

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

If he was putting out normal numbers for his mods I would agree with you, but these are not normal at all.
To the OP, if in the end your clutch is crapped Monster has $125 off their clutches right now, one of their clutches would compliment your setup very well.

manzo81maro

Completely agree, that seems to be the norm for these mods, so that's why I'm convinced there's something up with the dyno

My clutch didn't sound like it was slipping on the dyno, rpms climbed smoothly and never suddenly jumped...never noticed it slip on the street or at the track, just a sticky pedal on occasion is all
After a couple pulls, you could hear the brakes on the dyno squeeling as the tuner was rolling into first for another pull, so he was almost certain that the brakes were engaged when they shouldn't have been

edwardzracing

iTrader: (59)

Was there any warning from the shop that did the tuning that their dyno might give off low number because of it's issues? I mean I guess it doesn't matter too much as it's still going to be tuned the same, but hell, it would have been nice to know beforehand that the dyno might be reading low numbers at the end of the tuning process. Keep us updated on track times, and if you do give in and take it to another dyno, let us know those results too. Congrats on getting it all together. The feeling of mo' powa' is always a good one.

PS - That is one clean underbody... so jealous!

AmarilloWS6

iTrader: (3)

If it's tuned right I wouldn't worry about the numbers if it was known that the dyno was messed up a bit.

manzo81maro

No warning before the tune, my car and a 1000whp C5 were the only ones to hit the dyno after it got new brakes installed, so I guess the vette was making too much power to show a problematic dyno...I'll go back maybe next weekend for another pull and see what I get...if it reads the same, I may just try somewhere else...will update track results when I get there

And thanks, it's a bit of a garage queen as you can tell

manzo81maro

Okay guys, got the drill mod done tonight...

First of all, let's take a look in the reservoir...isn't it nice in there?




Master cylinder was a PITA to get out but it was persuaded:




Drilled out the line with a 1/8" bit:




Decided to hack up my floor to make bleeding a one man job...used a 1" holesaw, luckily got it first try:
Peekaboo!



Had to slighty bend the bleeder screw upwards to get a 1/4" drive 7/16" socket on it...


So before installing the M/C, I bench bled it and wrapped the slave line in aluminum foil tape...without touching the bleeder, the pedal felt good, but I figured I would still have air in the system...so I bled a few times, went through a couple reservoirs of fluid using DOT 4...pedal still felt good, so I went for the first drive - pedal sticks worse than before...bled it a couple more times - pedal still sticks, again only after a high rpm pull...I didn't even attempt to bang the gears...had to pump the pedal a bunch to restore it...

Sooo, either I have more air in the system that doesn't wanna come out, or one of the hydraulic/clutch components has suddenly taken a dump...
the car shifts fine when cruising, pedal does not stick at all...only @ high rpms up does it seem to stick...
I'll try bleeding it a couple more times, but I find it hard to believe my 60000km (40000 mile) clutch assembly is failing

What do you guys think?

Guitar

iTrader: (9)

Probably pressure plate...mine shifted fine around town but when I did high RPM pulls missed every gear. New clutch solved that quick. And yes I did the Tick Master in hopes it would solve it and it did not.

manzo81maro

Damn, so these things crap out that early? Car has made maybe 25 passes down the 1/4...again, it started sticking bad after the headers went in, so that points to the extra heat causing the issue, which is why I wanted to try drill mod and flush with DOT 4.

Oh well, I'll try a few more bleeds, and if she doesn't wanna cooperate, I guess it's time for a monster stage 2 package - $cha-ching$

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

90% of the time our master cylinder fixes the issue you're having now.

manzo81maro

I've had a couple guys recommend that to me.
Thanks for the reply, I sent you an email.

manzo81maro

Okay guys, Tick master & speed bleeder is on order...if it solves the issue, sweet...if it's my clutch assembly or slave, I'll be replacing the whole shot anyways, so I'll already have the Tick master

Martin, I hear nothing but good things about your products & services, so you have my business on this one

manzo81maro

Update,

Got the Tick master and speed bleeder installed:


Nice quality kit


Bench bleeding the master, without a vice


Here's the master bolted up, I actually found it a little easier to install than the stocker, because you can remove the adjustable rod


Didn't realize until I tried to install the speed bleeder that the trans needs to come out...wasn't as difficult as I expected though








All that for this little line...definately worth it though, makes bleeding a breeze
Also gave me an excuse to replace that 11 year old trans fluid


Here's the stock LS6 clutch...didn't notice any damaged or bent fingers


Did notice this stuff hanging off the PP...looked like crushed up leaves to me, would this be friction material??

At this point, I was really tempted to put the job on hold and order another clutch setup, but I decided to keep going, get this master in and see if it fixes my issue



Got everything back in, and started bleeding & adjusting...
I started with the pedal close to the floor, maybe had 2-3 inches of travel...car would go into 1st okay, but shifting while driving around felt notchy
I adjusted a few more times until the clutch pedal and brake pedal were even...car drives & shifts better, however still has some notchy shifting and pedal still sticks a little between high rpm shifts
I have bled the system numerous times with the speed bleeder both under the car and submerged in fluid @ the reservoir so I'm almost certain there's no air in the system...
Again, the issues seem to improve the higher I adjust the pedal, but I don't want to risk over-adjusting and damaging the pressure plate...

What do you guys think?

manzo81maro

I think I got it...took the spring off the clutch pedal, adjusted the master another turn so the clutch sits just a tad higher than the brake
car drives much better, sticky pedal is gone




Definately recommend this product to anyone having these issues...it's not the cheapest thing but if you don't wanna ditch your stock clutch yet, this is the way to go

Next up will be the UMI LCA relocation brackets, gotta re-seal my diff cover, and then off I'll go to the track to see what she does...
maybe get back to Champion for another dyno pull soon too

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Awesome!!! I'm so glad our products worked to solve your issues! This is what we love to hear!

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Me: "These headers are just freakin' beautfiul"
Wife: "It's just a bunch of metal tubes"
Me: .........."Get out."

manzo81maro

Lol there's one reason why I'm not married