manzo81maro

Hey guys, just thought I'd share some pics of some bolt-ons I'm about to install on my '02 SS...

They include:
- ARH 1-3/4" LT's & 3" catted Y pipe, w/AIR...(I know I know, calm down 1-7/8" guys hehe)
- Powerbond 25% UD pulley, w/new belts & GM crank bolt (ARP is on back order)
- MSD 8.5mm super conductors
- NGK TR55 plugs
- POTZ speed ported LS1 throttle body

These headers are beaut!!!! You just can't help but take them out of the box and assemble






Ignition package from TSP:



UD pulley kit from TSP:




POTZ speed & performance ported LS1/6 throttle body (nice piece!!)





Also throwing in a hypertech 180* thermostat, TB coolant bypass.

Will post pics of install, as well as dyno tune results (tune to be done by Champion Motors in Toronto, ON).

If you're in the area, go see Rob @ Champion Motors for a good deal on all parts/install/tune.

Car put down 313rwhp/330rwtq - stock tune with factory SLP blackwing lid & CME catback, so I'm shooting for 340rwhp/350rwtq - tuned.

Stay tuned!!

Somebody09

very, very, very nice! how much was the TB work?

hardbones

Those headers are awesome!

Syris

iTrader: (1)

that tb looks like some great work done to it

manzo81maro

Thanks! See link below for details on TB - done by POTZ in FL...$70 for the work, just ship him your stock ls1/6 f body core...or he'll supply the core for an extra $70...I was gonna port one myself, but I'd rather spend the few bucks and leave it to experience

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/LS1-LS6-Trans...ht_4462wt_1164

Killer_Z

iTrader: (1)

+1 for potz, have their ported t/b and MAF great work.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Very nice goodies!

manzo81maro

just an update...tonight I installed the POTZ ported TB and bypass kit, along with an SLP smooth bellow...I wanted to see what gains just those would give me...wasn't expecting much if anything

Here's some pics:

Yup, there's a Chevy under there


POTZ left...stock right


for the TB bypass, you can order the kit from POTZ, but I just used a 1/4" barbed brass coupler, 2 stainless clamps, and about 2 ft of 5/16" fuel/heater hose...either way will only cost you a couple $$...this just connects the two lines coming off the TB, but I wasn't comfortable having them pretty much sitting on top of the water pump pulley


hence my use for the extra 2 ft piece of hose...I routed the line from the coolant crossover, underneath intake (behind water pump), down the deck of the block and then into the radiator port...doing it this way does put a bit more stress on the shorter line as it takes a sharp bend to get behind the water pump, but it didn't kink it, and it's well out of the way of any moving parts...you might be able to just run one piece of hose using the same route, but not sure if it'll make the bend...this is just what I had on me so that's why I used two


TB installed


good to go


Went for a drive after the install, one thing I definately noticed right away was a snappier throttle response, which seems to be the norm with a ported TB, other than that, no noticeable increase in power or seat-of-the-pants...granted, tonight was very humid compared to the last time I drove it, so hopefully temps and humidity come down in the next few days for better comparison

Edit 07/05/2013 - had the car out that night, cooler air, definately more noticeable difference in throttle response and power, just seems to pull a little harder everywhere, so safe to say, these mods are worth some gains.

One other thing I noticed, as soon as I got back from a good 30 minute drive, popped the hood and the TB felt nice and cool, as if the car had been sitting for a few hours...so that TB bypass should definately make the car more consistent, as it will help keep IAT's cool

Overall, I would say these mods are worthwhile...ported TB & smooth bellows allow for smoother air flow, resulting in improved throttle response, and might be worth 1-3 rwhp....TB bypass keeps TB cool to keep IAT's cooler, also maybe worth some power

As they say, every little bit helps

Maybe doing UD pulley next, stay tuned!

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Looks good man, congrats. I installed a ported tb not too long ago and i ended up getting a vacuum leak lol

TrentSS

You shouldn't have any problems at all hitting the numbers you're going after! Just wait until everything is installed and tuned and you'll notice a night and day difference. At least that was my experience once I got tuned after my QTP and Y-pipe install. Congrats man and keep us posted on what numbers you end up with!

manzo81maro

funny you mention that, the car idles about 100-200 rpm higher now...thinking it might be just a throttle blade adjustment?? because it's in a different position than my stocker, and all my connections were good, TB gasket was mint also...might just wait until it gets tuned

manzo81maro

Thanks! yea I'm expecting a noticeable power difference once the headers are in and the car gets tuned, 400+ hp @ the flywheel would make me happy

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

It could be. Let me know if you find a fix. I just assumed it was because I used the old throttlebody gasket and it didn't seal properly. I just didn't fix it because I'm installing an ls6 intake soon, so I figured it could wait a bit longer

orthopod

iTrader: (1)

Its because you changed the throttle cable bracket bolts with the potz stainless ones. The same thing happened to me and I couldn't figure out why it was idling high for about 2 minutes then it came to me. Have the engine running, get out your hex wrench, slightly loosen the bolts on the throttle bracket, you will see the throttle hit the stop and hear the idle drop, then tighten the bolts and you will be good to go.

orthopod

iTrader: (1)

Also...I had the same problem with the throttle coolant bypass. The bypass hardware was literally sitting right on the water pump pulley. I got a 2 foot length of hose and ran it out to the front of the car (under the bellows and the MAF, then turned and zip tied to the radiator hoses, then to the radiator. The engine bay looks cleaner as the hose is under the bellows, MAF, and intake, I have no bypass to cut flow, and no sharp bends. I wouldn't be comfortable with the bend you took and with the hose squeezed back onto the block. I'll try to load a pick so you can compare and decide if you want to do it this way.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

What are the TB holes for in the upper left? I have seen some porters fill them and then smooth that out. What are the reasons to do that or not to do that?

z-maro

iTrader: (18)

I zip tied mine out of the way, but didn't add any hose. If you are going to the trouble of adding hose, my thought would be to get a hose long enough to not need the bypass (just use one solid hose to avoid any possible leaks).

manzo81maro

I'm pretty sure one on the left is for the PCV breather hose, and the right is for the IAC sensor...I believe both need air hitting them for the car to run/tune properly, so that could be why they're left open...
maybe someone else will give you a better answer...

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

Is this only for the potz throttlebodies? or will a ported stocker need adjusting too?

manzo81maro

actually, I didn't bother with the cable bracket screws, he just sent them to me, so none of that was messed with...does the TPS calibration get messed up when the sensor is swapped over?? if not, then only thing I can think of is the idle screw/stop setting

cool, that sounds like a pretty good way to go, will keep an eye on that bend, and re-route like that if necessary...has anyone just plugged the crossover and rad ports?? or does that line always need flow?