maxtherabbit

iTrader: (5)

I'm going to run an aftermarket oil pressure sender in the remote oil filter mount, and was thinking of re-purposing the OEM oil pressure bung behind the intake for a oil temp sender. VDO makes a temp sender with M16x1.5 threads.

I know the f body only feeds the dash pressure gauge from the oem oil pressure sender so it's no problem to remove it, but would an aftermarket temp sender in this location provide an accurate oil temp reading?

thanks

pdxmotorhead

I've always went with,,,
Oil weight is based on parts selection and install, Top And/Main Bearings/Rods/Oil pump are all a "set" if you have a short run motor, its gonna be loose, more volume typically. If you've got a tight clearance motor for endurance , lighter oil higher pressure...

Some NASCAR engines run 0-10 ,, you better have a big pump..
Brand is not the key, quality is,, Most mainstream synthetic oils seem to all behave fairly well.

Amsoil/Redline/Royal Purple are examples of top shelf full synthetic base oils - Good choices for high stress.
Motul, Joe Gibbs,etc, Specialty synthetics, that are top shelf - often formulated for really special reasons, often 2x the cost of the others..
Mobil 1 / Valvoline and many other name brands are just below the top shelf, they don't take high temps quite as well,, and break down a bit quicker. They are still good, but they will not take the shear and heat that the top shelf ones will. We are talking very small differences for the most part.
Then a million other options, at the end of the day make sure the oil you pick meats the spec of the engine supplier whether its OEM or a builder.
For instance if you drive a GM Ecotec, and you can't prove that Dexos spec oil was used every single oil change,, when your rings go south GM will tell you to pack sand. Guess what,, almost none of the Specialty or Top Shelf oils qualify. Its all 0W-20 or 0W-30 far as I can tell.

G Atsma

pdxmotorhead- WHAT are you going on about?? OP wants to know about oil pressure SENDERS, NOT oil...

RB04Av

A sending unit screwed into the block would probably measure block temp, not oil temp.

Better place to get oil temp would be the pan. Piece o cake to install a bung in that. Or, if you want the cool side temp (after the cooler), put it in that line.

rednari2

iTrader: (1)

I'll try to answer the question. I do not know what car you have, but many cars will not work without the OE sender installed. The sending unit acts as a low pressure interrupter and cuts off the fuel pump in say a crash for instance. Also on my 04 GTO, if the wire plug is disconnected or the pressure drops to 21 lbs or less, the SES light comes on and a crazy chime starts. It sounds like a pedestrian bumper sensor or a police siren or something. When I first heard it, I thought I hit and killed a man, and the shrieking wouldn't stop.

So, the best way to do this is to tie in both sensors. I think Improved Racing or someone like that, sells a T'd pipe fitting that screws into the block and holds both sensors. That's what I did years ago. The OE computer must get an oil pressure signal. BTW, the best way is to bung the pan, but this method is reasonably reliable.

ImprovedRacing

Most likely an aftermarket sensor won't work with your dash. It would have to have the same resistance curve as the factory sensor, which is unlikely. If you want the gauge on the dash to work, you need to keep the stock sensor connected to it, and just add another sensor for any aftermarket gauges. You can tee one into your remote oil filter line.

.boB

iTrader: (1)

That's where I have mine, and it seems to work just fine. I'v compared it to the temp of the pan, using an infrared thermometer, and they are very close.