P0332 and P0430, abs, brake, low oil, and washer fluid lights 00 suburban
11-04-2015, 06:08 AM
#1
P0332 and P0430, abs, brake, low oil, and washer fluid lights 00 suburban I bought a 2000 suburban LT with 239k miles for $1800, extremely clean. It had a check engine light with P0332 knock sensor bank 2 low input and P0430 bank 2 catalyst system below efficiency. It also would throw LOW OIL LEVEL and LOW WASHER FLUID lights after running for a bit, and sometimes the ABS and BRAKE lights. As soon as I would shut it off then restart it, all lights go away except check engine, so I knew it was a ground issue. The engine doesn't smoke or knock, good oil pressure, oil level is fine, washer fluid level is fine.
I started with grounds, I cleaned the battery terminal ground, and for the first 10-20 minutes it would only have the check engine light, but after it got warm it would still throw the ABS and BRAKE lights. I cleaned the EBCM ground, no change. It was idling at 550rpm normally, but after disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes while I cleaned the ground it would sputter down to 100-200rpm and took a bit for the IAC to catch up, so I cleaned the TB and it is a little better.
I put my timing light on the plugs on bank 2 and was not getting consistent spark from the passenger side second one back, so I changed the plug to a NGK platinum gapped a touch tighter at 0.055. Still not a good spark from the timing light. Then I unplugged each coil and every coil did change idle so all are firing, timing light must not be able to pick it up well.
I put a meter from battery to frame and battery to the alternator bracket where it says GND and with the engine off I got 0.3 ohms, so good, but engine on and warm I got 60-70 ohms. I cleaned the battery to block ground and the battery to frame ground and now it's 25 ohms engine on, can someone verify this is ok, or measure on their car? I feel like that is high. I moved the battery to block ground a little farther away from the block so it doesn't get as hot. I cleaned the block to firewall ground at the firewall and couldn't reach the other end at the back of the block in the dark, but still negative battery to firewall is 25 ohms running.
I ran 10 gallons of shell 93 with Lucas fuel injector cleaner the day I bought it, and now it has a full tank of Sheetz 87 with another bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
Today it made it 35 miles and 45 minutes to work without throwing any lights at all, but I don't think I am out of the woods yet. I am now leaning towards spraying brake cleaner on the intake to find a leak, and possibly replacing the intake gasket, I don't think the knock sensor is bad since the bank 2 catalyst code tells me that bank does have an issue. I have not spent a lot of time with LS engines and while it is smoother than my old tbi 350, vortec 350, or LT1, I think it should idle smoother. Other options are clean the MAF, replace the rest of the plugs and put on new wires, and buy a brand new battery negative cable. The plugs on it are AC Delco platinum with normal wear, and the wires look decent, I have all new plugs but haven't bought new wires yet.
Any ideas?
I started with grounds, I cleaned the battery terminal ground, and for the first 10-20 minutes it would only have the check engine light, but after it got warm it would still throw the ABS and BRAKE lights. I cleaned the EBCM ground, no change. It was idling at 550rpm normally, but after disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 minutes while I cleaned the ground it would sputter down to 100-200rpm and took a bit for the IAC to catch up, so I cleaned the TB and it is a little better.
I put my timing light on the plugs on bank 2 and was not getting consistent spark from the passenger side second one back, so I changed the plug to a NGK platinum gapped a touch tighter at 0.055. Still not a good spark from the timing light. Then I unplugged each coil and every coil did change idle so all are firing, timing light must not be able to pick it up well.
I put a meter from battery to frame and battery to the alternator bracket where it says GND and with the engine off I got 0.3 ohms, so good, but engine on and warm I got 60-70 ohms. I cleaned the battery to block ground and the battery to frame ground and now it's 25 ohms engine on, can someone verify this is ok, or measure on their car? I feel like that is high. I moved the battery to block ground a little farther away from the block so it doesn't get as hot. I cleaned the block to firewall ground at the firewall and couldn't reach the other end at the back of the block in the dark, but still negative battery to firewall is 25 ohms running.
I ran 10 gallons of shell 93 with Lucas fuel injector cleaner the day I bought it, and now it has a full tank of Sheetz 87 with another bottle of Lucas fuel injector cleaner.
Today it made it 35 miles and 45 minutes to work without throwing any lights at all, but I don't think I am out of the woods yet. I am now leaning towards spraying brake cleaner on the intake to find a leak, and possibly replacing the intake gasket, I don't think the knock sensor is bad since the bank 2 catalyst code tells me that bank does have an issue. I have not spent a lot of time with LS engines and while it is smoother than my old tbi 350, vortec 350, or LT1, I think it should idle smoother. Other options are clean the MAF, replace the rest of the plugs and put on new wires, and buy a brand new battery negative cable. The plugs on it are AC Delco platinum with normal wear, and the wires look decent, I have all new plugs but haven't bought new wires yet.
Any ideas?
11-04-2015, 06:12 AM
#2
It has a bunch of other little issues like the rear lift gate won't lock and the window won't unlock, only 1 speaker works, power mirror switch won't work, a few ***** missing from the head unit, memory seat button doesn't work, driver seat is torn, but other than that it runs and drives great, I already did front rotors as they were not cut when new pads were installed. I am thinking of flipping it for $4000, or keeping it through holiday family travel.
11-04-2015, 05:35 PM
#3
ABS and brake lights came back on on my way back from lunch, but cleared when I turned the motor off then on again.
Then on the way home the SES light came back. Then a few minutes later something changed, the idle went high, like 750 in gear and 1050 in park, I don't know if the fuel injector cleaner worked something loose, or I hit a sweet dead spot in the coolant temp sensor causing it to go into high idle, but when I got home I turned it off, cycled the key 3 times to reset the IAC, and it fired back up as normal.
I bought MAF cleaner, new oil and filter, new Carquest premium plug wires, and barrowed some 6 gauge wire from work to make a new battery to frame ground strap, will install tonight with the rest of the NGK platinum plugs and report back.
Any ideas?
Then on the way home the SES light came back. Then a few minutes later something changed, the idle went high, like 750 in gear and 1050 in park, I don't know if the fuel injector cleaner worked something loose, or I hit a sweet dead spot in the coolant temp sensor causing it to go into high idle, but when I got home I turned it off, cycled the key 3 times to reset the IAC, and it fired back up as normal.
I bought MAF cleaner, new oil and filter, new Carquest premium plug wires, and barrowed some 6 gauge wire from work to make a new battery to frame ground strap, will install tonight with the rest of the NGK platinum plugs and report back.
Any ideas?
11-05-2015, 05:56 AM
#4
Changed the oil, got just a touch over 5 quarts out of it, just enough to hit the top of the new 5 quart jug, even though the dipstick said full. It was for my peace of mind knowing 6 quarts was in there and the low oil light is not actually because of low oil. The FRAM filter I pulled off was way heavier than it should have been even though the PO said he changed the oil 500 miles ago, the oil was dark but not too bad, a little sludge on the plug but not awful. I put in Castrol GTX high mileage advance auto special with a purolator filter, will change it again after 1000 miles just to clean any sludge it works loose. Oil pressure looks better, it used to always be at 20psi at idle even when cold, now it's 30-40, I was concerned sludge had filled the oil filter and was somehow causing the low oil light.
Changed the rest of the plugs and wires, the Carquest premium wires were shorter than the ones I took off, no slack but they fit.
Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaning spray, it was pretty dirty. Disconnected the battery while I did this to clear the PCM.
Fired it up, it stalled out the first few times until I feathered the throttle and it let the IAC catch up. It still only idled around 500-550rpm, is this normal? It is smoother now, but I feel like it should be higher, it's always at 550, in both park and drive. I might need to clean the TB more and the throttle position switch and IAC.
What causes it to go into high idle? Does the MAF reading cold IAT have anything to do with it or just coolant temp? I've never seen it go into high idle, even in the morning, or kicking on the AC, it just has always stayed at 550ish. I think I need to ohm out my coolant temp sensor.
Only took it around the block but it feels better, smoother, even the trans shifts felt smoother. Took the bike to work today but I need to drive it a bit and see if the fixed it or if I still need to change the battery to frame ground. I have half a can of seafoam that I want to put through the brake booster to clean any carbon out as well.
Changed the rest of the plugs and wires, the Carquest premium wires were shorter than the ones I took off, no slack but they fit.
Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaning spray, it was pretty dirty. Disconnected the battery while I did this to clear the PCM.
Fired it up, it stalled out the first few times until I feathered the throttle and it let the IAC catch up. It still only idled around 500-550rpm, is this normal? It is smoother now, but I feel like it should be higher, it's always at 550, in both park and drive. I might need to clean the TB more and the throttle position switch and IAC.
What causes it to go into high idle? Does the MAF reading cold IAT have anything to do with it or just coolant temp? I've never seen it go into high idle, even in the morning, or kicking on the AC, it just has always stayed at 550ish. I think I need to ohm out my coolant temp sensor.
Only took it around the block but it feels better, smoother, even the trans shifts felt smoother. Took the bike to work today but I need to drive it a bit and see if the fixed it or if I still need to change the battery to frame ground. I have half a can of seafoam that I want to put through the brake booster to clean any carbon out as well.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 11-05-2015 at 06:04 AM.
11-06-2015, 06:08 AM
#5
If anyone has a 5.3 99-06 can you please do me a favor and measure your ground resistance when it's warm and running from the negative post to frame and negative to block? Is 25ohms normal? I had 70 when at operating temp before, what's the threshold for "problem"?
11-11-2015, 06:33 AM
#7
I cleaned that one already but I will do it again and maybe strip back the wire and recrimp a new ring on it.
Weird thing happened when I was changing out 2 blown speakers. I changed the rear blown speaker then had the key on engine off checking it worked, then left it on and buttoned up the door panel and the truck went dead, battery totally drained in like 5 minutes. I swapped the Camaro battery in and it fired up, then I changed the front speaker, and fired it up and now my 1 and 4 preset button lights work when they didn't before. I don't know if there is a straight short from positive to ground through the radio somehow or the blown speakers, but I still have 1 more speaker to do.
Weird thing happened when I was changing out 2 blown speakers. I changed the rear blown speaker then had the key on engine off checking it worked, then left it on and buttoned up the door panel and the truck went dead, battery totally drained in like 5 minutes. I swapped the Camaro battery in and it fired up, then I changed the front speaker, and fired it up and now my 1 and 4 preset button lights work when they didn't before. I don't know if there is a straight short from positive to ground through the radio somehow or the blown speakers, but I still have 1 more speaker to do.