BMR Turbo K Member Install
08-12-2016, 05:58 PM
#1
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BMR Turbo K Member Install 
Hey guys I was wondering when installing a turbo k member us it required to remove the ac to get to the passenger motor mount? I'm following 2 different write ups and one says to remove it the other doesn't mention anything about it. If I remove the ac won't I have issues with freon being released? Second question I attached a picture of the passenger motor mount and I was wondering if the bolt circled in orange need to come off or the bolt circled in green? One write up says the orange and the other write up says green so I'm confused. Thanks! Don't know why the pic didn't load the first time.
Last edited by SSV8; 08-12-2016 at 09:19 PM.
08-12-2016, 06:09 PM
#2
Haven't installed a tubular K yet, but I had to unbolt the AC compressor and the bracket that bolts to the motor when I put my headers in. If you are careful about maneuvering the compressor you'll be able to get to the motor mount bolt without hurting the lines.
08-13-2016, 09:10 AM
#4
As stated. You need to remove (unbolt and swing to the side. I lost no freon and had no issues) the AC to get access to the one motor mount bolt. My BMR k mounted up just fine wiithout removing the clamshell mounts from the motor however i did remove them when i upgraded the bushing to poly for the long tube.
I may have some pictures if i look around that i can post as i did mine
I may have some pictures if i look around that i can post as i did mine
Last edited by klinznilk; 08-18-2016 at 06:38 AM.
08-13-2016, 05:42 PM
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Did you want me to give you the link for the write up or make a new write up? Ok so did you guys remove the coolant line to the thermostat to get to the ac bolt? Didn't want to do that as I just flushed and filled the coolant
08-17-2016, 09:51 PM
#7
Unbolt the five bolts for your compressor and move it a few inches toward the front of the vehicle. You will not lose Freon as the actual lines aren't being removed. Yes, you will need to drain the coolant and remove the two lines from the water pump to access the compressor bolts.
Then unbolt the bolt (green circle) that connects the clamshell (engine) to the pedestal (frame).
Then unbolt the bolt (green circle) that connects the clamshell (engine) to the pedestal (frame).
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08-17-2016, 10:02 PM
#8
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...sket-swap.html
I wrote this up and might help answer your questions. Btw, your swap is a major undertaking. If you're put off at the concept of draining fluid, you may be seriously underestimating the scope of your project. I'd be willing to wager once you really start, you'll find other things that need fixing too. Like those original motor mounts in the picture, lol.
I wrote this up and might help answer your questions. Btw, your swap is a major undertaking. If you're put off at the concept of draining fluid, you may be seriously underestimating the scope of your project. I'd be willing to wager once you really start, you'll find other things that need fixing too. Like those original motor mounts in the picture, lol.
Last edited by NineZeroFive; 08-17-2016 at 10:10 PM.
08-18-2016, 06:36 AM
#9
Unbolt the five bolts for your compressor and move it a few inches toward the front of the vehicle. You will not lose Freon as the actual lines aren't being removed. Yes, you will need to drain the coolant and remove the two lines from the water pump to access the compressor bolts.
Then unbolt the bolt (green circle) that connects the clamshell (engine) to the pedestal (frame).
Then unbolt the bolt (green circle) that connects the clamshell (engine) to the pedestal (frame).
You do NOT have to remove the two lines from the water pump to get access. I have removed/moved my compressor twice now without touching the coolant. It is a TIGHT fit but with proper extensions etc its doable.
08-20-2016, 03:33 PM
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My flex joint couldn't flex enough to get to those bolts so I just took the right hose out. 3rd time this year I'll be putting coolant in this car. I also bought motor mounts to replace mine as I read the stock ones are crap. Now I need a new jack cause mine won't stay up. Problem after problem
08-20-2016, 04:58 PM
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When I still had the stock K on it was necessary to remove the AC compressor.
When I installed the tubular K I put the bolt in the other direction. I have to remove the starter, but with the tubular K I can reach the nut through the wheel well, so no more need to remove compressor.
The tubular K gives you a lot more room and you'll be glad you did it.
When I installed the tubular K I put the bolt in the other direction. I have to remove the starter, but with the tubular K I can reach the nut through the wheel well, so no more need to remove compressor.
The tubular K gives you a lot more room and you'll be glad you did it.
08-20-2016, 06:04 PM
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Ya I plan to put the bolt on backwards as well. I had to pull the starter, alternator, and move the ac so far. Anyone know if the hard part is over or does it get harder? I figured the motor mounts would be the hardest. Do you guys think it would be wise to put the turbo manifold on now as well? I was planning to, but I feel like I should finish this first just to see if I can finish it before I start taking more parts off. Never really did anything this big on a car before. Also do you guys think I should trust a harbor freight jack to hold the motor up for awhile. My new craftsman capped out. Thinking about get a hein warner just because I figure it's American made. I'm afraid the engine is going to fall on my face lol
09-09-2016, 10:10 PM
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So I finally pulled the K member out and it was not as bad as I thought it would be. Once I got over the paranoia that I was going to break something I just started pulling shii out. I ended putting a hole in both bellows of the steering rack, but I don't care I got this b**** out! lol. It was actually a lot easier then I thought it would be so I ended up changing the motor mounts and pulling the manifolds to install the turbo manifold once I get it wrapped. Pretty exciting haha. Build is coming along pretty well. Thanks for everyone's help.