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What's louder on the outside of the car? GMMG or TSP true duals dumped? I'm thinking about switching to TSP true duals but I don't want it to be much louder than the GMMG.
I also read that with the TSP true duals, angling the tips towards the sides of the car greatly reduces interior noise and drone. Does anyone have experience with this?
Wondering if anyone with the speed engineering true duals can do me a favor. I want to reuse my CME tips but I need to know how much mods I would need to do. Can one of y'all measure the distance between the pipes behind the mufflers of the speed engineering duals.
So I have the tsp true duals on. They have been quite a challenge with ARH headers and a MWC double drop safety loop. They aren't perfect yet but it is close. And for comparison between this and a catted gmmg system, the true duals are WAY louder. I will upload a video of it idling later.
Glad I found this thread because I never thought true duals was possible on gen4s. From listening to sound clips on youtube, I've come to really like the GMMG sound. Thankfully, in Alabama, we dont have to pass smog so most with these types of rides run catless. After losing the cats, my flowmasters got markedly louder and raspier.
Glad I found this thread because I never thought true duals was possible on gen4s. From listening to sound clips on youtube, I've come to really like the GMMG sound. Thankfully, in Alabama, we dont have to pass smog so most with these types of rides run catless. After losing the cats, my flowmasters got markedly louder and raspier.
Installed my axle dump kit a couple weeks ago on my LT1 and so far I'm very happy with it. I'll have to take some pictures and add them soon, but installing this exhaust on a 97 LT1 car was pretty simple and not much modding to make it work.
I went with the axle dump because I was having nothing but trouble with my Y-pipe over the axle setup that was previously on the car. Maybe I have crap exhaust shops in my area, but no matter what I did or where I took it to, I always had bumps and rattles and bangs. Car is just lowered on Strano springs, but long story short, I've had it into a couple different shops multiple times and can never stop the over axle pipe from either hitting on the axle, or the panhard, or the floor, or whatever else, which drove me nuts. So I was happy to find this exhaust of a fraction of what local shops wanted to charge for even a non-stainless, crush bent system.
The only modification I really needed to make for the LT1 was on the left hand pipe that attaches to the header. I've got Pacesetter long tubes, and what I found was the left hand header seemed to come out further rearward in the car. The kit had a section of piping about 12-16" long with an O2 bung (that I didn't require) that went onto another curved section of pipe before the X. When I mocked it all up I only needed maybe 4-6" of piping to bridge from the LH header to the curved pipe before the X, so instead of cutting up the new pipe I just hacked a section off my old exhaust. I'll post up pictures later to clarify.
After reading this thread I knew the biggest issue would be ground clearance, so I installed it with that in mind to keep it tucked up as tight as possible to the bottom of the car. What I learned is there is a very fine line between too close to the ground and scraping everywhere, and having just enough clearance. After initial install when I thought I had everything tight (probably about a quarter inch or less clearance to tightest spot on the floor pan) I drove it for a day and found I was scraping everywhere. Every little bump, any roads that had a crown in the middle of the lane, etc. Came home a bit bummed but put it back up in the air and tweaked things a bit. I was able to pull the muffler sections up a tiny bit more, maybe a quarter inch (center of exhaust didn't have to move up the same amount, but is still very close to the floor), and also added the rear spring isolators back in (had heater hose mod on Strano springs), which was probably a smart thing to do regardless of exhaust. That little bit of additional height gave me the clearance I needed - I've driven it several days now around town and other than pretty gnarly bumps, the exhaust never scrapes anything.
Sound is pretty awesome IMO, but that is all subjective. It's much louder and deeper than my Y-pipe was. I wouldn't want it this loud if I daily drove it, but there are a lot of reasons I wouldn't daily drive an F-Body besides the exhaust. I like loud exhausts so this works for me. And I would say that it's not loud to the point of being obnoxious - once the cold start high rev goes away and you're idling, it's deep but not super loud. Get on it though and it really barks.
My best suggestion / advice from installing this on a lowered car, is just that a little bit goes a long way. A quarter or half inch can make a world of difference, so work at getting every little bit of clearance you can. Outside of that, a lowered car is low, and that's just how it is. I can't go over speed bumps, but that's not because this particular exhaust hangs low - it's because I scrape all the way from the bottom of my long tube headers all the way down the length of the exhaust. That isn't Speed Engineering's fault, that's my fault for having a low car. Regular driving on normal roads there is no reason you shouldn't be able to install and tuck this exhaust up enough to be driveable.
Btw, my modified Kooks system will be going up for sale. I just gotta figure out how to package it to ship out.
I went with the TSP Magnaflow Clone catback with the integrated cutout. It's a nice system. It doesn't fit anywhere near as nice as the Kooks True Duals did, but does provide a lot more ground clearance than even what you saw in that earlier video I posted. The issue with it, is the exhaust is too short and the tips are actually tucked under the car. I may end up fabbing up different pipes coming out of the muffler to put the tailpipes where I want them. Or may try to adjust the Y-Pipe some more to see if I can move the hump over the axle back some (though that only has so much room before it hits something).
But the level of loud isn't even close. If you want to raise the dead, do the true duals. I get the same sound with the cutout open. So I can have that and then turn it off and cruise around. If you want both, you need a good muffler and cutout system. I haven't found a quiet cruising muffler that's super loud at idle or when you get on it. It's either loud all the time or quiet all the time. And if you drive your car with any regularity, there are times when you want one or the other. So, if you do true duals, I would recommend not doing the bullets. Do the Magnaflow ovals and put twin cutouts if you need it to be really loud. You don't gain any power with the cutouts. On a y-pipe setup you do since a 3" system is restrictive at 500HP+.
Does anyone know if the Speed Engineering True Dual Rear Exit exhaust set up will clear with a Watt 's link instead of the Panhard rod relocation set up?
If you have a mostly stock car, the Speed Eng clones of the Kooks system is going to be hard to beat. It'll sound good and have pretty good clearance.
If you modify the car pretty extensively, it's going to be loud. Very loud. Those bullets don't do jack to help. The TSP system is even worse since it dumps. That leaves a catted setup with the GMMG as a good alternative... or the TSP Catback with the built-in cutout.
That's what I'm planning to do on the turbo car I'm building to have a very nice cruiser... then open the cutout when I need to release some backpressure...
I’d agree with this. If you spend time tucking up the SE duals they have reasonable clearance
05-13-2018, 11:23 AM
