2" Primaries....3.5" collectors.......ARH vs Texas Speed........really a difference??
#21
Basically after some shopping i realized some merges are very expensive, my exhaust was already 4 inch. Finding a cheaper 3.5>4" proved difficult. I did however find a 3.5>5" so i bought it and cut it back to the 4" section.
Basically started with a pile of bends.
Hand fit it under the car in about an afternoon and came up with this as the Y
Then I had it coated black as seen above. The rear section was a 4 inch bullet pictured above and i did a full 4 inch tailpipe. This pic is an older pic but the tailpipe stayed the same, 4 inch to the back with a hidden/tucked tip.
Ive had at minimum a half dozen exhausts on this car and most were hand built. You could say Ive gotten better at it over the years. Wanna know the sad part? That 3.5" Y pipe above got taken to the dump and tossed due to the header buyer not being interested in it, and i offered it for free with the purchase of the headers. Dropping it off at the dump stung a little bit I will admit.
Basically started with a pile of bends.
Hand fit it under the car in about an afternoon and came up with this as the Y
Then I had it coated black as seen above. The rear section was a 4 inch bullet pictured above and i did a full 4 inch tailpipe. This pic is an older pic but the tailpipe stayed the same, 4 inch to the back with a hidden/tucked tip.
Ive had at minimum a half dozen exhausts on this car and most were hand built. You could say Ive gotten better at it over the years. Wanna know the sad part? That 3.5" Y pipe above got taken to the dump and tossed due to the header buyer not being interested in it, and i offered it for free with the purchase of the headers. Dropping it off at the dump stung a little bit I will admit.
Wish I knew how to do that stuff....
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#22
All my exhaust are done by yours truly also. I'm to cheap to buy bends though angle cuts it is. The more **** you do or try to do the better all your skills get. This leads to thinking you can do more complicated things and next thing you know you got a garage full of tools, building your own cages, tubular front ends, turbo kits and so on. Is it money saved in the long run, maybe not after you buy all the tools to do the job. But the sense of satisfaction of doing all your own stuff is well worth it. Not to mention when something does go wrong your already familiar with the assembly so you can have it apart in no time fixing your **** up.
This is why its taking me so damn long to get something installed into my car.....if I was home I would already have some nice boosted set up done. But I'm stuck out here, a lot longer than I'm supposed to be. I am supposed to be home 3 times a year for about 5-6 week OFF periods each of the 3 times. So a lot of off time off and at home..... We are short a pilot and my boss just has not made a move yet to either let me hire a 3rd pilot so we can get our rotational schedule back.......or buy the new aircraft he's been wanting for over a year. But we're about a week away from closing a deal on a new jet......if it happens I get to go home for about 5-6 weeks while it gets new interior the way he likes it.
Then my car will get done......whatever that might be. The single turbo kit I have now....or the Harrop 2650 SC'er, new 2" headers and a cam.
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#23
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Lol, I freakin hate doing exhaust. I did a turbo back setup for a guy and put the bullet muffler under the passenger seat where the old style cats used to sit (hump in the floor), and ran it down the tunnel and to the rear in a couple hours. Just another afternoon in the ole shed.
#24
Lol, I freakin hate doing exhaust. I did a turbo back setup for a guy and put the bullet muffler under the passenger seat where the old style cats used to sit (hump in the floor), and ran it down the tunnel and to the rear in a couple hours. Just another afternoon in the ole shed.
Really....you do kickass work. Looks like a machine made that Y pipe.
There's another shop local to me. I think I'll give them a try. I'll show them the picture of yours and tell them to make it identical.
What gauge steel was used?
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#30
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If you necked the 3-1/2" pipes down to 3", Flowmaster makes a merge that goes into your choice of 3-1/2" or 4" outlets. I doubt that would choke your engine very much at all.
#31
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Heres the one i bought, you can see it can be cut back to whatever diameter you like and its cheap
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...yABEgIed_D_BwE
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...yABEgIed_D_BwE
#32
Heres the one i bought, you can see it can be cut back to whatever diameter you like and its cheap
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...yABEgIed_D_BwE
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...yABEgIed_D_BwE
I want to put one 3.5" electric cutout on the 3.5" single outlet after the two pipes merge together into one.
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#33
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#35
Ah...it works now for some reason.
I need 3.5 inlets.........my collectors will be 3.5".
Maybe just have it custom made with 3.5" piping....
EDIT: Found the one I need....Howe 3.5/5......thanks.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hre-h2021
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I need 3.5 inlets.........my collectors will be 3.5".
Maybe just have it custom made with 3.5" piping....
EDIT: Found the one I need....Howe 3.5/5......thanks.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hre-h2021
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#37
Passanger side has plenty of room, drivers side is tight with the header angle, foot well in floor and seat brace if I remember right. It is definitely possible massage some more room though. My car is at factory ride height in this pic with a iron block in the front and 28's in back. I didn't massage any extra room and I'm not touching the floor anywhere. The tips are tuned down a little so the exhaust don't blow straight onto the side moldings and if I remember right one side is 3-1/2" and the other is 3-3/4" off the ground.
#38
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If you examine the underside of the car carefully, you'll see it is made for a Y pipe. There are only a couple issues to deal with. One is right after the collectors there is a crossrail, thats a low spot. I recommend cutting it or beating it with a hammer where the pipe passes under it, and two the areas where the pipes get to the tunnel and turn. The fuel and brakes lines are low on the drivers side and the trans crossmember is the low point on the passenger side. I had my stock fuel and brakes lines raised up so i could tuck the pipe better. My 3.5" Y had as good or better clearance then stock. Careful routing and paying attention to detail makes all the difference.
#40
Passanger side has plenty of room, drivers side is tight with the header angle, foot well in floor and seat brace if I remember right. It is definitely possible massage some more room though. My car is at factory ride height in this pic with a iron block in the front and 28's in back. I didn't massage any extra room and I'm not touching the floor anywhere. The tips are tuned down a little so the exhaust don't blow straight onto the side moldings and if I remember right one side is 3-1/2" and the other is 3-3/4" off the ground.