Generation III External Engine LS1 | LS6 | Bolt-Ons | Intakes | Exhaust | Ignition | Accessories
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Drilled out exhaust manifold bolt: Helicoil or Tap it?

Old 06-28-2018, 09:08 PM
  #1  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Vetteman61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 738
Likes: 0
Received 36 Likes on 25 Posts

Default Drilled out exhaust manifold bolt: Helicoil or Tap it?

My new to me motor (2004 5.3) had a head bolt broken off. I couldn't get it out so I had to drill it out. The bit sticking out is the same depth as the other manifold bolt holes. Would it be better to helicoil this or drill and tap it?



Old 06-28-2018, 09:10 PM
  #2  
TECH Senior Member
 
G Atsma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Central Cal.
Posts: 20,866
Received 3,017 Likes on 2,348 Posts
Default

Doing a HeliCoil involves drilling and tapping anyway. You drill out the original hole, tap it a size up from original, then thread the HeliCoil into it.
Old 06-28-2018, 09:21 PM
  #3  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Vetteman61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 738
Likes: 0
Received 36 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

I was wondering if there's a known best method for exhaust manifold bolts, if for any reason one is preferred over the other.
Old 06-28-2018, 09:44 PM
  #4  
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (25)
 
truckdoug's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Portlandia
Posts: 6,330
Received 526 Likes on 356 Posts

Default

As mentioned in the other thread, welding is the preferred way. But drilling oversize and tapping is fine--I've done that when the original thread were stripped.

Helicoil or keensert would probably make a stronger thread but those bolts don't go very tight--like 25ft/lb or so.

Worse comes to worst, dorman makes a decent kludge fix. 917-107 is the part number.
Old 06-29-2018, 09:52 AM
  #5  
TECH Fanatic
 
RB04Av's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,467
Received 596 Likes on 411 Posts
Default

Heli-Coil it.

They will hold FAR more torque than the original aluminum threads, and don't require the use of a "special" size bolt that's different from everything else. Just altogether the ONLY RIGHT way to fix that sort of thing.

Drill the hole to the correct size tor that Heli-Coil to the FULL depth of the hole. (don't go an farther though, you might do something stooopid, like, hit water) Install the insert with the last thread about ½ turn below the surface, use a punch to break off the tang, blow the remains out with compressed air, use a normal bolt. 25 ft-lbs is about right for those, or for any other bolt of that size (since torque generally goes with hardware size, not anything about the application itself).

In fact it wouldn't be a bad idea to do all 12. I usually do.
Old 06-29-2018, 05:24 PM
  #6  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
 
00pooterSS's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Dallas
Posts: 4,916
Received 523 Likes on 372 Posts

Default

The answer depends on what you did to get it out and what you have left

Did you drill and ease out the old bolt? Did it unthread out? If so just stick a new bolt in.

Or did you have to completely drill the bolt and hole. If you had to completely drill it then you've now enlarged the hole and you'll have to heli coil it. Other wise you would have to tap the hole to a larger size then you would have an oddball sized bolt in that one hole and you'd have to drill your header/manifold hole out larger too.

heli coils work just fine for exh bolts
Old 06-29-2018, 10:04 PM
  #7  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Vetteman61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 738
Likes: 0
Received 36 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

I put a helicoil in today. The kit was $38.00. I wasn't expecting it to be that high. It went in OK. I haven't test fit anything yet, but it seems like it will be OK.
Old 06-30-2018, 09:52 AM
  #8  
TECH Fanatic
 
RB04Av's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,467
Received 596 Likes on 411 Posts
Default

That does seem kinda high. Butt hay, it's cheeeeper than replacing the head, eh?
Old 06-30-2018, 02:47 PM
  #9  
Teching In
 
Flame-Thrower's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i have always believed that you can tell the quality of a machine shop by whether they use a heli-coil or not on something like this. Heli coil FTW.
Old 06-30-2018, 07:39 PM
  #10  
TECH Senior Member
 
G Atsma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Central Cal.
Posts: 20,866
Received 3,017 Likes on 2,348 Posts
Default

Did the kit include re-usable tools? So next time all you need are the Heli-coils themselves?
Old 07-01-2018, 12:00 PM
  #11  
TECH Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
 
Vetteman61's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 738
Likes: 0
Received 36 Likes on 25 Posts

Default

It did include a tap and the tool to install the helicoil, so as you stated from now on I should just need to purchase the actual helicoil itself.
Old 07-01-2018, 12:56 PM
  #12  
TECH Fanatic
 
RB04Av's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 1,467
Received 596 Likes on 411 Posts
Default

That's good, because there's like AMILLION of that size bolt in these motors. It should get plenty of use over time.
Old 07-01-2018, 03:19 PM
  #13  
TECH Senior Member
 
G Atsma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Central Cal.
Posts: 20,866
Received 3,017 Likes on 2,348 Posts
Default

I would say a good part of the $38 was a good investment in tools you can use from now on...


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Drilled out exhaust manifold bolt: Helicoil or Tap it?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:16 AM.