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My buddy gave me an SLP LID and the cold air kit "ductwork"...
Ever since, it seems my IAT's are a bit higher than without, specifically the ductwork...although it might be my imagination???
Just curious if anyone has had this happen, or heard of it happening?
It really seems to get heat soaked fast, which defeats the purpose of it at the track. My engine runs at 195 or less, and I've seen IAT readings as high as the 140's, on an 80 degree or so day, with very little running time between the pits, and the starting line
Referring to this thing, specifically
Last edited by rel3rd; 08-27-2018 at 01:43 PM.
Reason: add pic
What were they before you put the kit on? Anything sucking from the radiator area is going to heatsoak at idle. Some people relocate their IAT sensor specifically because of this and just stick it up by the cowl since you're not really sucking in 140*F temps as soon as you start moving and IAT sensors are slow to change?
What were they before you put the kit on? Anything sucking from the radiator area is going to heatsoak at idle. Some people relocate their IAT sensor specifically because of this and just stick it up by the cowl since you're not really sucking in 140*F temps as soon as you start moving and IAT sensors are slow to change?
I just looked at a few datalogs after posting...about midway through 2nd gear (automatic), they were at a much more reasonable 90 degrees..
So, it looks like at speed, they are the same as they used to be, with just the lid.
Minus the ductwork, it looks like most logs show low 100's to maybe 120 degrees if sitting still for a few minutes.
I literally drive to staging lanes, shut car off, and don't restart until the car in front of me is pulling into the waterbox, so it seems it's getting it's heat from sitting and being "held" in the sheetmetal ducting....sound right?
Its just lag of a heat soaked IAT sensor. Even with the car off all the radiant heat from the radiator is soaking the IAT's. I would either relocate the IAT leave it alone unless it's causing the car to pull timing.
Its just lag of a heat soaked IAT sensor. Even with the car off all the radiant heat from the radiator is soaking the IAT's. I would either relocate the IAT leave it alone unless it's causing the car to pull timing.
I set the Spark Correction to not have any effect until 158 degrees. It's never been that high, so it should "fix" it.
ok I wasn't certain. I thought there were another table called spark correction (or a couple variation) and there's a table called IAT spark.
This is all I see. I simply zeroed out the spark correction because it did indeed retard the timing at it's original setting. I figure if the IAT gets as high as I have it zeroed out, then 10 degree retard is probably needed anyway...Hopefully, I never see numbers that high.
I dont think the factory even pulls that much timing, usually its like half that.
Forgot to add this yesterday...I went and looked at my "STOCK" 2002 Silverado 6.0/4L80tune (since I run that ECM, and engine/transmission combo), and it's what my 3 bar custom OS started as.
It appears they actually do take an aggressive amount of timing out as well...I must have just moved the table over to delete any retard at lower IAT's
Of note:
My car WAS a rear mount turbo car, hence the custom OS it has...although it is now a CLSD nitrous combo...I was running OLSD but car seems to run much better (all around) with the closed loop, enabling the STFT's only, so far.
I pulled a stock tune and saw a max of -3* at WOT pulled lol.
I don't know how a stock 6.0 truck even runs...
If you're pulling a load, at say, 2400 rpm, and the IAT's are 130-ish, you'd very possibly have negative timing?? Is that right?
I know this is gonna sound terrible but I made a chrs1313 style ram air out of tin and wrapped it in gorilla mainly to hold my self tappers in haha but after sitting quite a while idling it takes a really long time for iats to come up much above ambient. I’m not sure if it’s because my home made set up hangs down a lot lower than the SLP or if the black gorilla tape actually blocks heat some.
I have to have a front tag in Maryland, so made a very simple hinged front tag for when it had a turbo, to allow restriction free air into the intercooler....
I imagine with some ductwork it would also easily be used as a REAL Ram Air, since it opens up almost immediately...in fact, only time tag is visible is at less than 5-10 mph, or if stopped.
2nd video shows it really well:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BjQL6O-AFNn/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=wx50vwjlkj1h
I feel like the fast toys ram air system is a better option for this reason. It's a plastic material similar to the lid and seems less likely to heat soak like one of the metal systems such as the slp
I feel like the fast toys ram air system is a better option for this reason. It's a plastic material similar to the lid and seems less likely to heat soak like one of the metal systems such as the slp
Unless it is hidden somewhere on their website, it appears that they no longer even offer that.
All I saw was a few different size lids, and a deflector made for Trans Ams?
Unless it is hidden somewhere on their website, it appears that they no longer even offer that.
All I saw was a few different size lids, and a deflector made for Trans Ams?
My bad I worded that wrong. I meant to say the SSRA system. Which I think you are correct on the fast toys version no longer being made. I meant this one
08-27-2018, 01:38 PM
HIGH IAT's with SLP Cold Air Kit? 
