Tornadogward

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

That's a VERY important statement.

Ask the tuner how drive ability is with the 102 TB cars & trucks the tuner has done. Pay close attention to what the tuner says.

Tuning HP is child's play compared to sorting out drive ability and running drive ability. One of my friends who is professional engine builder and part time tuner often got asked to sort the drive ability issues out ( usually carburetor some fuel injected) when a professional tuner/TOOOner couldn't to the job. However, the toooners always collected their $500 fee no matter how shitty the car drove. He found one car with set with 55 degrees of timing because that was only way the idiot toooner could get the car to idle

Your tuner is saying he lost power on his own car with a 102 TB. Your tuner is encouraging you to pick a 92 mm set up. That is critical for several reasons.

1. the tuner doesn't want to deal with the 102 set up and is trying to get you to pick a 92mm set up. There could be a couple of reasons.

a) the tuner doesn't think he can tune the 102's drive ability to be suitable but doesn't dare tell you that straight up because you will get someone else to do the tune.

b) the tuner is experienced and thinks knowing what he knows that overall you will be happier with a great driving 92mm TB car that's down 3-5 whp on the top end than a mediocre driving car that makes 5 whp more. I'm not saying that's the case but some tuners try to steer customers to what the tuner thinks will be a good result and make for a happy customer.

c) the tuner had a similar experience to mine with a 102 TB. My 91RS's small cam 383 LS1 stroker made 2hp less & 5-15 foot pounds less torque over the whole rpm range with a 102 LSXRT than the car did with a tweaked 90mm snout ported LS6 intake. Same day testing variables controlled. Apparently, the resonance frequency with th 102 LSXRT was a bad mismatch for my set up. The drive ability with the 102 was horrible. Two respected tuners worked on the 102. One of them over a half dozen times.

2. The tuner said his own car lost hp with a 102 TB set up. It's possible his set up was a bad match for a 102. That was the case with my 91 RS but less drastic. It also possible this tuner is inexperienced.

I'd find a different tuner if you to with a 102 set up. At least have another tuner in mind in case you have to pay another $500 to get the car re-tuned if the first tuner doesn't do a satisfactory tune.

BTW - my 383 LS1 91 RS with the 92mm TB drives almost like stock. I would take the car anywhere and not worry about idle, stall or surge issues. The RS is at home in heavy bumper to bumper traffic and always drives like a " nice well mannered car"
​​​​
My 416 TA has a 102 YTB and drivers pretty good. The car will surge sometimes under 1,500 rpm. The car occasionally will yoyo the idle up and down if your rpm is high and the clutch h goes in and you lift off the throttle. I don't like to drive the car in heavy bumper to bumper traffic. It's exhausting.

I say get the 102 TB if that's what you want.
​​​​If it sucks drive ability wise you can sell it and get a 92 TB with a VR velocity ring.

Just be sure it's a well informed decision.

Personally, as cheap as the WARR TB's are I'd grab a 102 & 92 plus a velocity ring. See what works best on the dyno and drives best with your tuner. Sell the other TB. That way you'll only pay for one tune session.

Chris25

iTrader: (1)

I would find another tuner like others have said it sounds like he doesn't want to take the time to dial in the 102, they take a little more time to get right with the 102TB but a competent tuner shouldn't have a problem.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

If you're going to put a blower on it in the future I wouldnt swap in ANY manifold.

Mavn

iTrader: (3)

Whos your "tuner" lol

G Atsma

Nobody **** on my cornflakes. Speaking of flakes, your "tuner" is of questionable repute if he makes statements as above. Also, I was being realistic about drivability. You would REALLY rather have a faster car that drives like crap?? Sounds like something a high schooler would say….

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

The 102 is cheaper. Here's why:

1. Buy different intake. Also pay for tuning.
2. Go back and forth over if you left power on the table.
3. Finally decide to sale your intake and get 92
4. Buy 102. Pay for tuning again.

Alternate method:

1. Buy 102. Pay for tuning.

102 is cheaper.

Chris25

iTrader: (1)

+1 Hard to argue with that logic.

Tornadogward

Tornadogward

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

no it didn't

Mavn

iTrader: (3)

PLEASE Get another *Tuner*. Where are you located? maybe I can point you in the right direction

Tornadogward

Tornadogward

Chris25

iTrader: (1)

Well you need to fire the tuner and find someone that has tuned a 102 and TB before.

G Atsma

Not angry at all, just responding in kind to juvenile thinking. You need a new tuner, as everyone else here is saying

dreadpirateroberts

iTrader: (1)

All i know is that i am angry after reading this thread.

G Atsma

Chill, Dude.....

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

102 made more power.

And all this BS about drive-ability, sorry I don't get it (and never will). I tune my own junk, have for a long time. My fast 90/PTM95 drove like stock. My fast 102/PTM95 drove like stock. My current LS2/WARR92 drives like stock. If your car doesn't drive like stock, your tune is off, and it's probably not hard to fix. All current combos listed in this thread should be able to drive like stock.

Old photos to show you an idea

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

If you gotta buy a tb go 105.