Car won't start. Constant draw on battery
 

Well it turns out I have some electrical problems. It started a while ago with the alarm going off over and over for no reason. Then my battery went dead everytime it sat for a while. Now the car won't start unless you push start it. I removed the starter and had it tested. It's fine. I disconnected the ground wire and ran a circuit tester between the battery and the ground and sure enough the light came on indicating I have a steady draw. I disconnected my starter but the light was still on. I removed ever sing fuse and the light was still on indicated a draw. I finally disconnected the cable to the fuse box and the light went off.

Has anyone heard of a fuse box going bad? What else can it be? Any ideas? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks :bang:

I took the fuse boxes apart and found that the draw came from three wires that where connected to the power cable connecting to the second box that deals with inj, starter, and so on. The power cable starts at the battery and connects to the first fuse box(closest to the drivers seat), Then another red cable connects the power cable to the next fuse box (closest to the front). the three wire are connected to the same bolt that the connecting power cable is connected to. Two of them (grey in color) are connected to one female the other is solo. All three are slightly thicker that the other fuseable wires but a third as thick as the power cable. They have fusable wire written on all of them. Does anyone know where these wires lead. I think its my alarm but I am not sure. Its the constant draw on my battery.

What do you think guys.

Hmm Thats funky. Where's the alarm located? If you can, pull it and see what happens. Since it started with your alarm, it'd be logical that its the source of issues. Something to check out.

Also might try posting this in the Stereo and Electronics section, I'm sure someone's gone through something similar.

I bypassed the starter relay in the fuse box and it started. {THe big grey.} I wasn't getting and power to the silenoid. It started working fine. I then inserted the relay again and it works fine. WTF. This kind of shit drives me crazy. All good now but it took a long time to track everything down.

oh, so did you end up replacing or just removing the relay? those suckers are a b!tch to get out! Either way, good info bowtie

Running a test light between negative battery post & its cable & see-ing a light is no longer a test for a draw since the mid 80's.
There is suppost to be a draw on our newer cars. The PCM/VCM, ABS/TCS VATS, SRS, BCM, RKE module, radio, & others all have a memory to retain.
They all draw upon the battery even with the key off. You disconnecting the fuse box/bulkhead connector is dening them that. You should see a draw that is normal with the test light. The way to test for it now is with an amp meter in line the same way as with the test light method from B-4. You should not have more than 50 milli-amp draw on the system once it "times out". Otherwords give it 20-30 min. once you hook it up for every module to power up & go into the "sleep" mode. Then you can diagnois for you draw. Fun huh?https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/sm...ch/gr_eek2.gif

yeh! I figured it out the hard way. Live and learn. I am an old school guy that is trying to learn the new ways. Thanks