True Dual Vrs Cat-Back...Powerloss?
03-31-2005, 11:44 AM
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orance County, CA
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
True Dual Vrs Cat-Back...Powerloss? Ok guys,
I currently have a set of edelbrock shortty headers + magnaflow cat-back. For the longest time Ive been wanting to get a set of Pacesetter Long Tube headers + TSP True Dual Exhaust, and though I live in Cali and KNOW LTs + Catless True Dual wouldnt pass smog, I didnt care because I dont have to smog for another year and a half. But after calling my local shop to get a quote on how much it would cost to install this (435 I beleive was the quote) I started thinking "Well, if I get pulled over and am forced to change exhaust, it would cost 435 to install my old, and 435 to reinstall the new after I clear the fix it ticket...the 435 to install the old when its time to pass smog, then 435 to reinstall the new after smog"
So im starting to second guess my cavalier attitude about running an off-road setup on an on-road car. So my 2 questions are these:
1. how much of a power loss am I gonna take if I go with the LT's + Catted-Y on the magnaflow vrs LTs + catless TSP True Dual?
2. What about sound quality? My biggest complaint about my car righ tnow is how damn QUIET the freakin thing is! I want something DEEPER and LOUDER.
I currently have a set of edelbrock shortty headers + magnaflow cat-back. For the longest time Ive been wanting to get a set of Pacesetter Long Tube headers + TSP True Dual Exhaust, and though I live in Cali and KNOW LTs + Catless True Dual wouldnt pass smog, I didnt care because I dont have to smog for another year and a half. But after calling my local shop to get a quote on how much it would cost to install this (435 I beleive was the quote) I started thinking "Well, if I get pulled over and am forced to change exhaust, it would cost 435 to install my old, and 435 to reinstall the new after I clear the fix it ticket...the 435 to install the old when its time to pass smog, then 435 to reinstall the new after smog"
So im starting to second guess my cavalier attitude about running an off-road setup on an on-road car. So my 2 questions are these:
1. how much of a power loss am I gonna take if I go with the LT's + Catted-Y on the magnaflow vrs LTs + catless TSP True Dual?
2. What about sound quality? My biggest complaint about my car righ tnow is how damn QUIET the freakin thing is! I want something DEEPER and LOUDER.
03-31-2005, 12:02 PM
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 8,009
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
um how about this. spend a hundred bucks on a jack and some stands, another 150 on a good set of tools, and learn how to install it on your own. that way you won't be shelling out 435 for install every time. cuz thats crap, i installed my headers in 4 hours and it wouldn't have taken me but another hour to swap catbacks if that.
03-31-2005, 12:12 PM
#3
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Orance County, CA
Posts: 318
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cyphur_traq
um how about this. spend a hundred bucks on a jack and some stands, another 150 on a good set of tools, and learn how to install it on your own. that way you won't be shelling out 435 for install every time. cuz thats crap, i installed my headers in 4 hours and it wouldn't have taken me but another hour to swap catbacks if that.
Plus...isnt there welding all that stuff involved? Ive seen pictures of TSP's True Dual system, and it doesnt look like its a straight up bolt on.
03-31-2005, 12:14 PM
#5
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: The other, other, other A-Town, NM
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by cyphur_traq
um how about this. spend a hundred bucks on a jack and some stands, another 150 on a good set of tools, and learn how to install it on your own. that way you won't be shelling out 435 for install every time. cuz thats crap, i installed my headers in 4 hours and it wouldn't have taken me but another hour to swap catbacks if that.
As for your questions: Yes, you'll lose some power and torque, but it's probably worth it if you absolutely want to avoid a ticket. Regarding sound, once you get some lts on there, you'll get a dramatic increase in loudness even with cats.
03-31-2005, 12:15 PM
#6
TECH Resident
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: The other, other, other A-Town, NM
Posts: 795
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by hitmeoff
Only problem I have with that is that Im mechanically uninclined. Hell, installing my MTI Lid was hard enough, and I almost tore out my hair trying to install my short shifter handle.
Plus...isnt there welding all that stuff involved? Ive seen pictures of TSP's True Dual system, and it doesnt look like its a straight up bolt on.
Plus...isnt there welding all that stuff involved? Ive seen pictures of TSP's True Dual system, and it doesnt look like its a straight up bolt on.
03-31-2005, 12:45 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: West Lafayette, IN
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Running cats is going to cost you some power, whether they be in a Y-Pipe or part of a true dual setup. I picked up a 20 RWHP switching from a catted Y-Pipe to an off-road X-Pipe system. Granted, I have a large cam, so the power gains from an off-road exhaust wouldn't be as great on a car with the stock cam.
As was mentioned earlier, the addition of longtubes to any exhaust will make it significantly louder. I believe FLP headers and Y-Pipe allow you to swap between cats and off-road pipes with the exhaust on the car. They are a bit expensive, but it might be a good option for you and would certainly save you some money in the long run.
Josh
As was mentioned earlier, the addition of longtubes to any exhaust will make it significantly louder. I believe FLP headers and Y-Pipe allow you to swap between cats and off-road pipes with the exhaust on the car. They are a bit expensive, but it might be a good option for you and would certainly save you some money in the long run.
Josh
Trending Topics
03-31-2005, 01:05 PM
#8
Staging Lane
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
we did a set of longtubes and lanes true duals on my buddy's camaro....it took us a day and a half on an LT1, which is harder than an LS1. it would have taken us a day if we hadnt been goofing off and takin our time. learn to do the **** yourself and save a buttload of money.
03-31-2005, 10:54 PM
#9
TECH Resident
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Rochester, MI
Posts: 967
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was really nervous about doing my LT's myself too. DO IT! You'll feel real good about yourself later. There such a wealth of info on this site, there is really no reason not to do it yourself. It will take some time (took me 9 hrs), but it's not that hard.
The TSP duals ARE A DIRECT bolt in to the TSP LT's. Hell, they were a direct bolt-on with my Kook's LT's. As more and more f-bod guys began modding their cars with LT's, the manufacturers have been significantly improving their design. Gone are the days when LT's rubbed the k-member and banged on the suspension and such (well for the most part anyways). If you do it yourself, this is what I learned the hard way:
1. Pull the oil drain plug first. It makes putting the driver header in much easier.
2. If you can get away with removing the AIR and EGR first, do it. You can have the codes deleted and probably pass inspection no problem.
3. 10mm gear wrench. You'll know why.
4. Swivel sockets. This is God's gift to man for header installs.
5. Pull the wires and change the plugs while you are there. I didn't, and 4,000 miles later they need to be replaced
Good luck, if you need any more help or coaxing, let me know.
The TSP duals ARE A DIRECT bolt in to the TSP LT's. Hell, they were a direct bolt-on with my Kook's LT's. As more and more f-bod guys began modding their cars with LT's, the manufacturers have been significantly improving their design. Gone are the days when LT's rubbed the k-member and banged on the suspension and such (well for the most part anyways). If you do it yourself, this is what I learned the hard way:
1. Pull the oil drain plug first. It makes putting the driver header in much easier.
2. If you can get away with removing the AIR and EGR first, do it. You can have the codes deleted and probably pass inspection no problem.
3. 10mm gear wrench. You'll know why.
4. Swivel sockets. This is God's gift to man for header installs.
5. Pull the wires and change the plugs while you are there. I didn't, and 4,000 miles later they need to be replaced
Good luck, if you need any more help or coaxing, let me know.
