Gettin ready for my Pacesetter's... Whats needed?
 

Ok I think I'm ready to purchase some pacesetters from texas speed... does anyone know where I can get a better price? Now, I obviously know that I need headers for my install.. but what else? I need 02 extensions... and If I get it tuned I can delete with LS1 edit the rears so I dont have to buy sims correct? This is all going on my 01 SS so I dont have the EGR... Now for the AIR system.. . the best idea is to get rid of it correct? I need block off plates is that it? The headers come with bolts and I am reusing my factory exhaust manifold gasgets... Am I missing anything... what are the flanges like on the headers.. do I need collectors? Or do you just weld strait up to the Header tubes? Thanks for all the help! And if anyone has any suggestions or comments on how or what to do with the install to make it easier or better please feel free!

It's easy. Take your time. Get a friend to help you. Truck Jack stands (you need the hight) Use factory GM Gaskets, not the papre ones. Not sure about the pacesetter headers, never done them.

Just get race style headers, no air tubes to block. You'll need a y pipe, highly reccomend band clamps, i changed my plugs while i was there also.

thanks guys... can I get NGK's the tr55s I think... well anyways can I get them at a local auto parts store? What do they need to be gapped to? Also, where can I get MSD wires the cheapest? About the race style ones... thats what Im gonna do but doesnt the system actually hook up to the exhaust manifolds somewhere? So after I remove them and put the headers on.. the tubes would just be hanging or something? Where is the whole system and how do I remove it? Is it self explanatory? Does the computer throw a code when you remove the system? Sorry for all the questions, I just wanna do it right! I love my car :)

If you just remove the AIR you will get codes. When I did my Pacesetters I just left it hooked up and then had it killed when I got the tune done. You can buy O2 extensions for a plug and play setup. The Pacesetters come with the wire and everything you need to extend your O2s. I did it with the supplied goodies from Pacesetter...granted it was a PITA.

There was a good post about !AIR on here...AIR removal You're looking for the #20 post in the thread. There's also a link to another write up he read before taking it off.

GM gaskets, use the supplied kit from paceseter to extend your o2s, takes about 10 - 15 mins. Make sure you get the car somewhere around 20" of the ground..at least the front end or you willl have a hard time getting the LTs in through the bottom....dont try through the top. TR55s will work and the provided gap is fine. with the AIR you can remove the motor/pump on the drivers side down below your headlight..trace the hoses and remove them...look for a right up because there are a couple things i forgot about doing, get some Stage 8 header bolts if you can afford it....they are much better than the pacesetter bolts. any correct fit y-pipe willl bot right up..use band clamps.

So your saying I dont need to buy the aftermarket extensions... :) The headers come with them? Then how come Texas Speed doesnt say that on their website... those punks :suspiciou

Basically I need:

Headers
extensions (Included)
spark plugs and wires (while im there)
and then get the exhaust built...

and maybe a tune for a little more power :)

What are band clamps? and will the stock bolts work?

do yourself a favor and get aftermarket extensions and a set of GM exhaust gaskets. The ones that come with the headers are crap.
Also if you're planning to remove the AIR do it when you're installing the headers, in fact don't even worry about block off plates just buy the race style headers.
The time you'll spend removing the AIR system would be wasted screwing around with aligning the air tubes with the fittings on the headers.
I just removed my AIR and I wish I would have done it that way from the get go.
Have the AIR codes programmed out along with the rear 02's

What everyone else said. The install was a breeze. Get aftermarket O2 extensions. Plug right in and you are done. Also you mentioned that you were reusing your factory gaskets. Highly recommended that you go to a dealership and get new ones. Don't take any chances at this point and they are pretty cheap. Gap the plugs to .060 and leave it at that. I would leave your plug wires alone unless there is something wrong with them. I don't know what you gain from MSD wires, but stockers are plenty sufficient for your needs. Put that money towards some Sweet Thunder mufflers and you too can wake the dead :devil: :judge: !

damn that is cheap

1. Headers
2. Y-pipe
3. 3 GOOD clamps. The band style that Napa sells. About 10 bucks each.
4. GM Metal gaskets (buy them, don't reuse factory)
5. NGK's left at gap them come in or regap if you want
6. MSD or equivalent or stock wires
7. Remove Air System https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-external-engine/328977-exhaust-backfires-running-rich-poor-mileage-come-air-removal.html
That link tells you EVERYTHING you need to know about removing the AIR system.
8. Factory, Pacesetter, or Locking stage 8 header bolts.

Get the car up as high as you can. Having the oil filter off made it easier for me to get mine in there. Nothing else has to be moved or removed to get them in. Just patience and some careful small movements.

I don't believe the factory bolts will work b/c they are longer with the thicker manifolds. PC headers come with new ones anyway. I reused my stock gaskets w/o any problems. As far as the install goes don't tighten the header bolts until you get the y-pipe on. Just makes it a lot easier.

Here ya go for installing the pacesetter headers and their ORY. http://www.geocities.com/foff667/98Camaropg4.html This is the old design so you shouldn't have to grind certain things like they did. It should be a straight in install.

Stock bolts are actually longer. Thats what I used

i paid $525. Thats 400 for the race ceramic coated headers and 125 for the piece of shit ory. free shipping too.

i used a sawzall to cutoff a casting tab on the driver's side of the block and header fit right in no prob, anyone esle hack this off?

It did get in the way a little bit for me, but we just used a crow bar and moved the motor about 1/8" to get the header to slide past that tab. Worked fine.